Going from a 3 inch lift to 4 inch lift

[Vader_TJ_03]

So I currently have an 03 TJ. I bought it with a lift and 33’s already on it and I thought it was a 4inch. However I measured the springs under the weight of the jeep and i believe that they are sitting at 3inches of lift. If I were to buy 4 inch lift springs can I just swap them in or do I HAVE to have new control arms. I also thought it was a 4 inch lift because It has the T case drop pucks. I’m trying to fit 35’s under the jeep and i will also be installing a 1.25 inch body lift from savvy.

 

[hear]

I'm guessing you don't have an SYE since you have a lowered skid. My 4" lift came with pucks to lower the skid but it seems counter productive to raise the jeep only to lower the skid. At some point the suspension lift will make the rear driveline angle too steep and you'll get vibrations. That's usually solved with an SYE kit, double cardan driveshaft, and often times adjustable arms are required to set the pinion angle correctly for the DC driveshaft. You'll find cases where people didn't need all that and it drives fine. All I know is mine drove like crap while the pinion angle was too low.

There's a whole bunch of threads on what all you need to go to 35's.

 

[GPK03X]

What arms are on it now? What gears? What engine? What transmission? Why not do it right and install the SYE before jumping to 35’s?

 

[hear]

Why not do it right and install the SYE before jumping to 35’s?

Same reason everyone tries this: cost & effort. NGL, I was pretty intimidated by the SYE, but its quite easy (if you have lock ring pliers). The cost is what it is. $225 for the SYE & like $300 for the driveshaft. It's a $500 project before you get to the arms.

 

[GPK03X]

So I currently have an 03 TJ. I bought it with a lift and 33’s already on it and I thought it was a 4inch. However I measured the springs under the weight of the jeep and i believe that they are sitting at 3inches of lift. If I were to buy 4 inch lift springs can I just swap them in or do I HAVE to have new control arms. I also thought it was a 4 inch lift because It has the T case drop pucks. I’m trying to fit 35’s under the jeep and i will also be installing a 1.25 inch body lift from savvy.

Fill out your profile with information about your Jeep. It will enable forum members to better answer questions

 

[AndyG]

I know I’m just throwing another variable into the equation but I had a TJ Rubicon sitting at about 3 inches in the rear and I went to 3 1/2 inches and I hit the magic vibe height and had to do a cv shaft-

 

[GPK03X]

IMHO proper gearing and a SYE are the best mods to make. They both make the Jeep so much better

 

[Plumber1]

I know I’m just throwing another variable into the equation but I had a TJ Rubicon sitting at about 3 inches in the rear and I went to 3 1/2 inches and I hit the magic vibe height and had to do a cv shaft-

This just confirms all jeep are different. My 05 TJR is running a 4" Currie lift with the stock Drive Shafts and no Vibe's at all

 

[Vader_TJ_03]

What arms are on it now? What gears? What engine? What transmission? Why not do it right and install the SYE before jumping to 35’s?

I am going to be doing an SYE along with the tires. My gearing is stock but I’m not worried about it being slower right nowThe weight of the 33inch tires with steel wheels was 89 pounds and my 35s with aluminum wheels will weight 83 pounds so the wheel combo is lighter and I don’t mind how it drives with the 33’s. It is a 4.0L with a 4 speed automatic. As for the control arms now, I have rear upper adjustable control arms and the rest are a set length but longer than stock. I have no clue what brand the lift is.

 

[GPK03X]

I would say that your control arms should work with adding the one inch to your spring height.

 

[TRE3TOP]

You can run 35s on a 3 inch lift and a body lift… I know because I do it.

 

[Vader_TJ_03]

I would say that your control arms should work with adding the one inch to your spring height.

Okay cool cuz I found some 4inch lift springs used for $50 and my goal is a 4inch suspension with a 1.25inch body

 

[Vader_TJ_03]

You can run 35s on a 3 inch lift and a body lift… I know because I do it.

Do you have decent articulation off-road?

 

[Vader_TJ_03]

Another question is that since my 33’s were at 89 pounds and my 35’s will be lighter at 83 pounds but I’m still on stock axles…. Are the 35s gonna be problematic? I don’t bounce my rig when wheeling and i Don’t have lockers

 

[AndyG]

This just confirms all jeep are different. My 05 TJR is running a 4" Currie lift with the stock Drive Shafts and no Vibe's at all

You are exactly right - I was thinking the same thing and how my post really didn’t mean he would have that issue just one of those things Like working in the construction industry- You get out here knowing what you’re doing and what you’re looking for but still you run into stuff that you don’t think you’re going to run into. Really in our line of work how you deal with it makes you or break you a lot of the time.

 

[cpwolf]

I am going to be doing an SYE along with the tires. My gearing is stock but I’m not worried about it being slower right nowThe weight of the 33inch tires with steel wheels was 89 pounds and my 35s with aluminum wheels will weight 83 pounds so the wheel combo is lighter and I don’t mind how it drives with the 33’s. It is a 4.0L with a 4 speed automatic. As for the control arms now, I have rear upper adjustable control arms and the rest are a set length but longer than stock. I have no clue what brand the lift is.

I’m not an engineer, so I don’t have the math, but I don’t think the “weight” of the 33’s/wheels Vs the 35’s/wheels is as important to what you’re discussing, the larger tire will flat out be a larger lever, and there’s a saying “give me a long enough lever and I can move the world”

Plus larger diameter is more Centripetal force and that multiplies quickly.

 

[GPK03X]

Another question is that since my 33’s were at 89 pounds and my 35’s will be lighter at 83 pounds but I’m still on stock axles…. Are the 35s gonna be problematic? I don’t bounce my rig when wheeling and i Don’t have lockers

Depends on what rear axle you have. With Dana 44 you would be okay. If Dana 35 your asking for trouble. You need to upgrade your axle shafts

 

[cpwolf]

Larger lever multiplies the force on your equipment, I think more than the weight, not that the weight is insignificant.

 

[Vader_TJ_03]

Depends on what rear axle you have. With Dana 44 you would be okay. If Dana 35 your asking for trouble. You need to upgrade your axle shafts

Yeah I know the axle shafts will be problematic. And I want to go to a Dana 44 ideally or possibly an 8.8. But right now I’m in college so takes some time to save for parts.

 

[cpwolf]

Yeah I know the axle shafts will be problematic. And I want to go to a Dana 44 ideally or possibly an 8.8. But right now I’m in college so takes some time to save for parts.

That’s understandable, I had a CJ5 in college, word to the wise, don’t sell your Jeep when you graduate, to get a nice new car, ha. Find a way, you’ll regret it when you’re and old F’er like me.

I’d stick to the 33’s until you can upgrade the axles. I say this because I’m getting Dana 44 front and rear this month, and have broken a rear stock axle on 33’s in a parking lot , we’ll my son in college did, so he may have popped the clutch I don’t know, but either way 35’s I’d wait. Worse to pay for parts when they’re broken and you need the Jeep.