Granite's Currie suspension upgrade

[Granite]

I’ve been thoroughly reviewing all of the heated “spring compressors are death to be avoided at all costs” vs “spring compressors are worth the calculated risk” content in here. All good stuff.

Put me in the “don’t need them” category. With the trac bar disconnected, shocks and sway bar end links and LCAs already out, it took just 25 minutes to articulate the axle and get both of the old RE 3.5” springs out. That is very fast for this amateur!

 

[Granite]

Old vs new front springs. About a 2.5” difference as they sit here.

 

[Granite]

Everything is out; now I’m drilling out and tapping the bottom spring perch to take the Currie bump stop kit. I need better drill bits! Done for today while Amazon brings them to me

 

[Granite]

I wire wheeled some rusty spots today … and was humbled by the rust. I realized that there’s a big rust remediation project in my future. But not this year. I’m just getting these key mounting locations for suspension components in “better” shape so I can finish this suspension project.

See above for the “before”
Here’s what it looks like now. Not perfect but better, and more protected. I used the Rust Reformer paint. I might top it off with some Krylon Rust Tough enamel; it’s pretty highly recommended on the forum.

 

[Granite]

I’m having a tough time drilling out the spring pads to accept the bigger Currie bump stop bolts. After some reading on here I learned that WD40 is not a good cutting oil. I’ll have to pick up something else and see if it helps.
Right now both front pads are drilled to 3/8 and I snapped a 7/16 bit before giving up for the day. I’ll get another bit (or two) and some cutting oil and get back at it.

Funny/frustrating how some stuff goes so well and some stuff is way harder than anticipated!

 

[MountaineerTom]

I’m having a tough time drilling out the spring pads to accept the bigger Currie bump stop bolts. After some reading on here I learned that WD40 is not a good cutting oil. I’ll have to pick up something else and see if it helps.
Right now both front pads are drilled to 3/8 and I snapped a 7/16 bit before giving up for the day. I’ll get another bit (or two) and some cutting oil and get back at it.

Funny/frustrating how some stuff goes so well and some stuff is way harder than anticipated!

View attachment 440078

I’ve had good luck with Tap Magic as a cutting oil. It’s the only kind of tried though.

Tap Magic 10004E W/EP-Xtra - 4 oz, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMH961Z/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[Granite]

Finally got some time to work on this again today! Using Tap Magic cutting oil and a new drill bit I was able to finish drilling out the 7/16” holes on both spring pads.
Tapping them was way easier than drilling them.

 

[Granite]

I wire wheeled the drivers side components to a “good enough for now” level and sprayed with Rust Reformer. I’ll be putting 2 coats on each side and then coating with Rust Tough enamel before putting it all back together.

 

[Granite]

Finally getting to the fun part where I get to bolt on my sexy new parts!
Bump stops, LCAs and shocks are going in first (plus I’ll reconnect the trac bar) so I can cycle the axle and make sure the control arm lengths are set so the bump stops line up. Then I’ll have to disconnect most of that to get the springs in.

But first it seems I’ll need to rig some ratchet straps just to get these LCAs to line up with the mounting holes on both sides at the same time.

 

[Granite]

I got the bump stops lined up by adjusting the control arms. Now I can’t drop the axle enough to get the new springs in. So I guess I’ll drop an LCA one side at a time and hope that gives me enough droop.

 

[Granite]

The axle looks like it will need to get shifted about an inch to the drivers side. I’m going to get more stuff bolted up before I spring for an adjustable trac bar. I was hoping this OEM one would still work with the ghetto extra holes on the axle side. It worked for the RE 3.5” lift. We’ll see.
If I get a Currie adjustable trac bar and need to drill out the axle bracket I am afraid it won’t hold since it already has 3(!) holes in it!

 

[Granite]

I’m embarrassed how long it took me to think of taking the brake off to avoid over-stretching the brake line too much! But with the caliper off, and the LCA disconnected, the axle dropped plenty to get the spring in. Getting the lower bump stop bolt to thread was a major PITA … but I got it. Drivers side spring and bump stops are in! On to the passenger side.
I wish I was faster and had more time to work on this but I am happy with the progress anyway! Lots of learning going on.

 

[Granite]

Passenger side was a different kind of difficult. I figured out how to manipulate the axle with a jack to make it easier to screw in the bump stop. But somehow I pulled the washers right through the urethane! I didn’t even think I was cranking on it that hard.

Hopefully I can still use this bump stop but I’m calling it a night.

 

[Granite]

Thanks to some helpful advice on another thread I was able to get the passenger side bump installed.

So now I have the control arms in and set to length, springs and bump stops in.
Next up: shocks and end links!

 

[Granite]

Shocks were quick! But I hate the white. My daughter let me know she thinks they’re ugly too. Maybe I’ll paint them later.
I couldn’t get a torque wrench on the top so I just tightened it until the rubber washer bulged a little

 

[Granite]

Now I’m having an issue with the JKS QDs. I posted here for help

 

[FarFire70]

Shocks were quick! But I hate the white. My daughter let me know she thinks they’re ugly too. Maybe I’ll paint them later.
I couldn’t get a torque wrench on the top so I just tightened it until the rubber washer bulged a little

View attachment 449141

View attachment 449143

Couldn't get to the shock through inside the engine bay?

 

[Granite]

Couldn't get to the shock through inside the engine bay?

Oh I probably could have but last time I tried that the hole and the shock top didn’t really line up; and I had to move some stuff around in the engine bay. So I used my expert torque estimation skills instead!

 

[Granite]

I got the JKS QD brackets and posts installed. Went back through the control arms and added red Loctite and torqued to spec.
I’m not sure what to do next and in what order. I think I’ll:

1. Put one wheel on at a time and cycle the axle to full stuff on each side, steering lock to lock and checking clearance (fenders, driveline, steering & suspension components), verifying bump stops touch before shocks bottom out, and verifying sufficient brake line length. Both sides.
2. Put both wheels on and put the Jeep on the ground. (First time since April!)
3. Confirm the pinion angle is correct and castor is good. Adjust UCAs if needed.
4. Set the Quicker Disconnect length and attach to sway bar.
5. Check and adjust alignment: toe in, trac bar/axle L/R alignment, axle straightness
6. Grease all zerks and tighten lock nuts.

Is there anything I’m missing or a better order?

 

[NashvilleTJ]

I got the JKS QD brackets and posts installed. Went back through the control arms and added red Loctite and torqued to spec.
I’m not sure what to do next and in what order. I think I’ll:

1. Put one wheel on at a time and cycle the axle to full stuff on each side, steering lock to lock and checking clearance (fenders, driveline, steering & suspension components), verifying bump stops touch before shocks bottom out, and verifying sufficient brake line length. Both sides.
2. Put both wheels on and put the Jeep on the ground. (First time since April!)
3. Confirm the pinion angle is correct and castor is good. Adjust UCAs if needed.
4. Set the Quicker Disconnect length and attach to sway bar.
5. Check and adjust alignment: toe in, trac bar/axle L/R alignment, axle straightness
6. Grease all zerks and tighten lock nuts.

Is there anything I’m missing or a better order?

You may be doing this, but in step 1 be sure to check clearance with one side stuffed and the other side at full droop. Also check clearance with both sides at full stuff and both sides at full droop. You are not only looking for wheel clearance, but also steering function (in the front). Be sure to turn lock to lock in every tested position. Look for any binding or rubbing.