Hard shifts in a AX15..

Wow! I was in the new Cherokee in 93 and after driving over a twig in Montana I had to drive back to Salt Lake City using feel for shifting. I displaced a part of the new hydraulic clutch system and unseated a line. Didn't understand it until in the dealers lot bitching about the clutch.

You have a hydraulic problem, not a clutch problem. Please follow up.
 
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Well I made the worst drive getting home. Fairly certain it's the hydraulic setup. Left work and it was a horrific drive. Pushed clutch pedal to floor and couldn't get any gear to engage. If I did get it in gear would have to hold brake or it would keep going as if still engaged. Clutch is strong as at some points I only had third gear engaged and would have to start or stop in that. When I stopped at stop signs with it in third gear, brake held to keep from rolling on, engine rpms would be up around 1200. So I guess I am gonna be in the wife's minivan until I get the new master slave cylinder kit.
Have you checked the hydraulic fluid level in the clutch reservoir yet?
 
Yes it is present in the reservoir, it is low but with what I had driving home, I am betting the slave and or master cylinders are bad
 
Well I have located the part, ugh Autozone, the only place I can get one. Yes I know, I know. But they will have it today and I can drive again. Its not a mopar piece (348.50) but they offer military discount so for 140 I will be back on the road I hope. I will update once I get it on and let all know if this fixes my problem. Thanks again for everyones help.
 
Well I made the worst drive getting home. Fairly certain it's the hydraulic setup. Left work and it was a horrific drive. Pushed clutch pedal to floor and couldn't get any gear to engage. If I did get it in gear would have to hold brake or it would keep going as if still engaged. Clutch is strong as at some points I only had third gear engaged and would have to start or stop in that. When I stopped at stop signs with it in third gear, brake held to keep from rolling on, engine rpms would be up around 1200. So I guess I am gonna be in the wife's minivan until I get the new master slave cylinder kit.
Can't help you with the clutch issue but just want to thank you for your service
 
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Thank you all! I drove the Jeep after replacing the slave/master cylinder drove it didn't seem right. Anywho fast forward, I got to my Jeep after training. Started fine shifter wouldn't go into gear. Managed to get it to shift. I have concluded that it shifts when I hit 2200 rpm on the up shift. On the down shift, the rpms won't drop below 1100. Unless I apply the brake until it hits ~700 then apply the clutch and shift it shifts great. I am starting to think an engine rpm issue. Any ideas?
 
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Better yet, it's no fun being sent to noisy places. :)
You got that right.

Sometimes the silent places aren't any fun either. The pucker factor depends on the situation. There's a lot of vets on here from many era's who all swore an oath. Thank you all for taking that oath, and writing that blank check.
 
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Engine RPM seems to be the IAC. Have it temp fixed until I can get all issues solved. I drained and refilled the transmission, helped a little but still having issues. I tested the clutch, tested fine. To test I was on flat ground, shifted to third gear and released clutch slowly. Engine slowly stalled out as I released clutch. I am at the point if I hit 2000 rpm I can upshift, if I hit lower than 900 rpm I can sometimes down shift. I am stuck between engine caused problem or an internal tranny problem (syncros). Any thoughts out there?
 
True or not, I had a transmission shop tell me that I can DIY diagnose clutch drag by chocking the front wheels, lifting the back wheels off the ground and testing if the trans shifts smoothly, as if you were driving.

Again, I've never tried this myself, so I can't say if it's even a proper 'test'. Curious if anyone happens to know?


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So I am replacing the TPS. I have had a rough idle for years when running, at idle it is rough. Since I had an issue with the idle the other day and having an RPM issue that is seriously affecting my shifting I will start with replacing the TPS. This is seriously my next to nothing budget. I know that I said the IAC is acting up, but I am at 220xxx miles and trying to survive until I can get a newer Jeep.
 
So I am replacing the TPS. I have had a rough idle for years when running, at idle it is rough. Since I had an issue with the idle the other day and having an RPM issue that is seriously affecting my shifting I will start with replacing the TPS. This is seriously my next to nothing budget. I know that I said the IAC is acting up, but I am at 220xxx miles and trying to survive until I can get a newer Jeep.
Make sure not to use a cheap TPS like Autozone would sell you. Store-brand sensor quality is abysmal.
 
The reason I am replacing the TPS is because a while back I replaced the distributor, since then when starting it sometimes has a sudden knock in the engine when cranking. It will start and drive, just on starting and at random will this odd knock just hit and then go away. So I am guessing that between that knock and the rough idle and now hard to shift due to rpm variations that my TPS is going out or is out. I feel like I am playing lawn darts in the dark.
 
Just an update....I already replaced the master/slave cylinders, seemed to allow me to somewhat shift again. Well I changed the fluid and put 3.25 qts of new 10w-30 synthetic oil in the gear box. I then replaced the TPS, now I am getting the shifter to work better. Not really sure how the TPS can affect the shifting but it seems to have helped. I will be replacing the IAC next. Once money permits me too.
 
Just because the clutch doesn't slip does not mean the components have not failed. It sounds like your next best option is to pull the tranny something is not allowing the clutch to completely disengage, as I said before I had the same issue and it was the clips on the TB. And you should be able to shift at any rpm AIC would not affect your shifting.
 
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