Hardtop Options: Gr8Tops Safari Top vs Bull Dawg Highlander

Love these tops.

What i’d love is operable rear windows for a factory TJ hardtop. Sliders would be my preference over the hinged gull-wing but I love running a hardtop 100%, minus the lack of operable windows for rear passengers. I know the oem top design makes it hard to get there, but it’s still on my wishlist

When I was working on the JK/JKU slider/gullwing retrofit kits I mentioned in an earlier post, I also designed a retrofit kit for the TJ. The goal was to use a very affordable RV flat slider window and mount it in place of the compound-curved factory hardtop glass. A slider window installed with the retrofit kit would look something like this:

TJSliderConcept1.jpg


In this next image the retrofit kit is shown in blue for clarity, it's a frame that matches the curves of the window opening in the hardtop and provides a flat surface for the slider window.
TJSliderConcept2.jpg


I did a similar thing when I designed the rear barn door for the JK/JKU factory hardtop - the rear liftgate is glass with a compound curve and the barn door frame has an inset section with a flat mounting surface so flat glass or an RV window can be installed. You can see the inset flat mounting surface in this photo.

Donny9c.jpg


The finished (but unpainted) barn door with flat glass:

BarnDoorInstalled11a.jpg


The retrofit kit would be a simple fiberglass piece that gets glued in place of the factory glass, and the RV slider would mount to the flat mounting hole in the retrofit kit.

An RV window company would do the sliders for less than $70 each wholesale, and the fiberglass retrofit kit is about as simple a piece to mold as can be, so that wouldn't be too expensive.

An even simpler product would be a gullwing hatch; the hatch could be molded to match the curves of the window mounting surface so no retrofit kit would be required.

TJCargoWindowConcept1.jpg
b

A MOLLE panel could be mounted inside to the roll bar similar to the photo I posted earlier in this thread showing a JKU gullwing hatch with MOLLE inside:

TJCargoWindowConcept2.jpg


These could easily be brought to market but I'm not sure there would be enough demand for any of these ideas to put them into production, seems like the TJ market isn't that rewarding to most vendors these days.
 

Thank you! Very helpful! The fact the rear window has to be shut after the tailgate, pretty much makes that a no go for me. That weird bit of back and forth sounds like it would get really old fast. I have the OEM tire carrier and dont plan on getting a bumper mounted one.



When I was working on the JK/JKU slider/gullwing retrofit kits I mentioned in an earlier post, I also designed a retrofit kit for the TJ. The goal was to use a very affordable RV flat slider window and mount it in place of the compound-curved factory hardtop glass. A slider window installed with the retrofit kit would look something like this:

View attachment 554319

In this next image the retrofit kit is shown in blue for clarity, it's a frame that matches the curves of the window opening in the hardtop and provides a flat surface for the slider window.
View attachment 554320

I did a similar thing when I designed the rear barn door for the JK/JKU factory hardtop - the rear liftgate is glass with a compound curve and the barn door frame has an inset section with a flat mounting surface so flat glass or an RV window can be installed. You can see the inset flat mounting surface in this photo.

View attachment 554321

The finished (but unpainted) barn door with flat glass:

View attachment 554322

The retrofit kit would be a simple fiberglass piece that gets glued in place of the factory glass, and the RV slider would mount to the flat mounting hole in the retrofit kit.

An RV window company would do the sliders for less than $70 each wholesale, and the fiberglass retrofit kit is about as simple a piece to mold as can be, so that wouldn't be too expensive.

An even simpler product would be a gullwing hatch; the hatch could be molded to match the curves of the window mounting surface so no retrofit kit would be required.

View attachment 554323b

A MOLLE panel could be mounted inside to the roll bar similar to the photo I posted earlier in this thread showing a JKU gullwing hatch with MOLLE inside:

View attachment 554324

These could easily be brought to market but I'm not sure there would be enough demand for any of these ideas to put them into production, seems like the TJ market isn't that rewarding to most vendors these days.

My current thought is to see if Matt will let me buy sides that have the two small rear facing windows, but the sides to be solid. If I can talk bulldawg into letting me outright buy two side gullwing windows, I can make cutouts for them in the flat sides of the Gr8Top and have the best of both worlds.
 
Thank you! Very helpful! The fact the rear window has to be shut after the tailgate, pretty much makes that a no go for me. That weird bit of back and forth sounds like it would get really old fast. I have the OEM tire carrier and dont plan on getting a bumper mounted one.





My current thought is to see if Matt will let me buy sides that have the two small rear facing windows, but the sides to be solid. If I can talk bulldawg into letting me outright buy two side gullwing windows, I can make cutouts for them in the flat sides of the Gr8Top and have the best of both worlds.

I have the gr8tops on my 04 unlimited, for past 7 years. Testing if I can post will write more.
 
I have the gr8tops on my 04 unlimited, for past 7 years. Testing if I can post will write more.

I love it! Here are my complaints. Wind noise above 70 mph caused by slight gap where roof meets outer corners of windshield surround. soultion was to really tighten front roof connectors to point i thought id break them. I also tried silicon caulk, replaced seasonally. I run it 8 months a year, bikini top all summer. Thats my only complaint! People are so confused when they see my jeep from behind, youll get a lot of attention with if just fyi. Mine was well constructed with good fitment all around. Love that its modular.

20210405_144451.jpg
 
I love it! Here are my complaints. Wind noise above 70 mph caused by slight gap where roof meets outer corners of windshield surround. soultion was to really tighten front roof connectors to point i thought id break them. I also tried silicon caulk, replaced seasonally. I run it 8 months a year, bikini top all summer. Thats my only complaint! People are so confused when they see my jeep from behind, youll get a lot of attention with if just fyi. Mine was well constructed with good fitment all around. Love that its modular.

View attachment 639875

20250830_122605.jpg
 
That's how I store the top. I take it on and off by myself. If you get one get extra sets of bolt hole covers, and roof rack bolt covers. I did, glad I did, on my second set. I am considering painting the very top white. It gets stupid hot in Atlanta. From the side it would still appear all black, but white on top.
 
Update, I was trying to lower my top down to about 3' off ground to paint it, and dropped it about 7' onto concrete. Where the two shells come together, the drip rail, a cracked formed, and it was much worse on driver side front corner which hit first. I was able to get appropriate two part epoxy for the materials from gr8top, and fix the cracks, missing filler, and repaint, switched it up with white on outside and black on the inside. Not fun to sand nor paint! It held up to the drop for sure.

20260124_170557.jpg


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