Help buying brakes

Thank you for that opinion, I secretly new it was going to help much more. Maybe @Rubicon88 didn’t bed them in properly. Anyways thanks.
WTH are you talking about.

You listed a pad and rotor kit only....no?
You're running 35" tires...

Blaine is talking about utilizing a kit that will also change your calipers out which is a significant change in itself.
That's NOT what you inquired about.

Now if your current pads and rotors are junk either via quality or just worn out...
Hell yes new pads and rotors will help.
 
I'm not sure why you insist on selective comprehension.?.
I was rather crystal on all things being equal....
Talk about selective comprehension, this is what you stated since you seem to have forgotten.

Won't really help.

If you're comparing junk pads and crap rotors to those then yes...

Unfortunately the difference you seek will not change unless you get to bigger braking surfaces. The more surface you clamp the better it will stop.
Specifically your comment that the "more surface you clamp, the better it will stop. That simply is not the case and never will be.
Are you suggesting bigger brakes don't make a difference?
Moreover what you are in fact suggesting is NOT what the OP listed. The OP listed a simple new pad and new rotor. Thats it.

I echo again...all things being equal...
Bigger brakes can make a difference but not for the reason you listed. There is far more to it than just more clamp surface. That and I never suggested anything because I very specifically don't do that, ever. I used that kit as an example to demonstrate that pad area has fuck all to do with it. The stock pad surface area and the pad in that kit are very similar in size. Which by the way, is all things being equal, pad area to pad area.
The OP appeared to be looking for a significant/decent improvement....no?
I believe I was crystal clear that if doing a lateral change there wouldn't be the improvement he's hoping for unless the current components he's running are significantly inferior.
Again, incorrect. They can be very good and my stuff will still be better.
I mentioned that because I know how Joe buying public operates. They want the cheapest pads and rotors possible and slap them on as they "just did a brake job".
Parts houses have catered to those as well by selling garbage material.
Hence the reason nobody turns rotors any longer. (Yes there might be that one garage)..but really now nobody cuts rotors any more because why the hell would you get a lathe all set up to cut a pair of rotors for $15-20 each when they can just put new on for $22 each?

You bring up your 15/16" kit which is NOT a lateral change and that's not what the OP listed/asked about. Seemed the OP was very clear about not being able to afford that kit right now.
Again, it was an illustration because I know the area of the pad is about the same as a stock pad. Nothing more.
You state a similar braking surface but more importantly you're changing the calipers from a single piston to a dual piston...(not what the OP asked about) and that absolutely positively is a change to the size of the braking surface because you're now getting evenly applied brake pressure across more of the pad rather than just the center.
No, you are describing a change in clamping pressure distributed across the face of the pad, not a change in the area of the pad in contact with the rotor swept area.
 
WTH are you talking about.

You listed a pad and rotor kit only....no?
You're running 35" tires...

Blaine is talking about utilizing a kit that will also change your calipers out which is a significant change in itself.
That's NOT what you inquired about.

Now if your current pads and rotors are junk either via quality or just worn out...
Hell yes new pads and rotors will help.
You don't read so well.
 
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Many times Blaine has said there are some "unicorn" Jeeps out there that work fine with stock brakes. Personally if you are on a budget I'd start with new discs and the stock ceramic pads that were installed on the LJ. If you have old worn brakes now that could be your only problem. If the brakes still suck you have only blown a small fraction of the cost of a real upgrade to find out. If you have money to spend Black Magic pads and rotors are obviously a better option than something like rockauto.

As far as blaming your brakes for almost causing an accident, you should stop that. If you drive the company sedan on Monday and the dump truck on Tuesday you don't whine that the brakes are the problem when you crash the dump truck on Tuesday. Just learn your rig and drive accordingly.

The rears play no significant role in braking performance.
 
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Wow. Was not expecting for this thread to turn out the way it did but thank you to everyone that contributed. I have a much better idea of what I’m looking for.
 
I did the front first with this kit, I was able to fit the 16" on my steel wheels:

https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/VANCO-16-Big-Brake-Kit-with-BMB-Pads-for-16-Rims-BBK-NDM16.htm
Then, I was so impressed, I did the back with these:

https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.c...nversion-Kit-Dana-44-Rear-Disc-Conversion.htm
https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.c...ake-Cables-TJ-Length-Park-Brake-Cables-TJ.htm
The brakes now work as they should and inspire confidence when driving. After break in, I noted a few things that I thought were suspension noises, they were actually the sticky brakes doing there thing. Note the full control at low speed on the waterfall.

 
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I did the front first with this kit, I was able to fit the 16" on my steel wheels:

https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/VANCO-16-Big-Brake-Kit-with-BMB-Pads-for-16-Rims-BBK-NDM16.htm
Then, I was so impressed, I did the back with these:

https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.c...nversion-Kit-Dana-44-Rear-Disc-Conversion.htm
https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.c...ake-Cables-TJ-Length-Park-Brake-Cables-TJ.htm
The brakes now work as they should and inspire confidence when driving. After break in, I noted a few things that I thought were suspension noises, they were actually the sticky brakes doing there thing. Note the full control at low speed on the waterfall.


Would love to get those but unfortunately out of the budget at the moment. :(
 
I have had the Black Magic pads and Centric rotors on my jeep for about 7 years now. I’m on 35’s. They made a huge difference for me. I can lock up my front brakes no problem. My rear I just went with Napa pads and rotors. I’m always impressed with them, always recommend them.

The harder you brake, the better they work. I DD a Super Duty, wife drives a Escalade, the jeep stops as good as either of those, or at least it feels that way.
Wait so you only have BM brakes setup on the front axle? If so that’s definitely less of a blow than what I was thinking 2k front and rear lol. I’ve been heavily considering BM when I need new brakes
 
Don't forget that all manual owners always lie about downshifting to slow down which ruins the break in on the pads.
Two things, what do you mean?(truly curious). I’ve got a 4.0 manual and I downshift a decent amount in order to brake less.
That’s due to me being on 37’s with just average pads and rotors all around(I think?).

This bring me to the second thing, I got my most recent TJ to replace my last one from a wreck I was in and while it’s got a ton of great work on it…it’s on 37’s with like I said, I think just your average pads and rotors. I’ve been giving myself plenty of distance between other drivers on the roads and trying not to brake too hard because I know these current brakes are up to the task. What would you recommend of your BM brakes if I want to keep running 37’s? I’d plan to get them when these show signs of loss of abilities
 
Two things, what do you mean?(truly curious). I’ve got a 4.0 manual and I downshift a decent amount in order to brake less.
That’s due to me being on 37’s with just average pads and rotors all around(I think?).

This bring me to the second thing, I got my most recent TJ to replace my last one from a wreck I was in and while it’s got a ton of great work on it…it’s on 37’s with like I said, I think just your average pads and rotors. I’ve been giving myself plenty of distance between other drivers on the roads and trying not to brake too hard because I know these current brakes are up to the task. What would you recommend of your BM brakes if I want to keep running 37’s? I’d plan to get them when these show signs of loss of abilities
You might want to make sure he has pads for your Wagoneer application because that will guaranteed use different brakes than anything that came on a factory TJ front axle, or what his big brake kits fit. The big brake kits he sells are to adapt Ford stuff to the TJ axles. The plain pad and rotor kits he sells are stock TJ brake replacement/improvements.

If he does have options for a Wagoneer axle, then they would be a good choice for 37's regardless of your braking style as long as you use them. The size of the 37" tire will keep the pads working well fairly easily.
 
You might want to make sure he has pads for your Wagoneer application because that will guaranteed use different brakes than anything that came on a factory TJ front axle, or what his big brake kits fit. The big brake kits he sells are to adapt Ford stuff to the TJ axles. The plain pad and rotor kits he sells are stock TJ brake replacement/improvements.

If he does have options for a Wagoneer axle, then they would be a good choice for 37's regardless of your braking style as long as you use them. The size of the 37" tire will keep the pads working well fairly easily.
Not just Ford stuff. The bigger kits use Dodge and Ram calipers, pads, and rotors.
 
Drive as if you have NO brakes.
As long as you can get everyone on the road, kids with toys between cars, and pedestrians glued to their phones to think the same way, you're golden.

BTW though, how does the fact that we are not in full control of everything around us when we are driving seem to escape so many folks?
 
Two things, what do you mean?(truly curious). I’ve got a 4.0 manual and I downshift a decent amount in order to brake less.
That’s due to me being on 37’s with just average pads and rotors all around(I think?).
We've discussed how manual owners use their brakes over the years since they are usually the first to hop up and say their brakes are fine in lots of brake discussions. By and large most of the deny downshifting to slow down. Then when I hop in the passenger seat to go for a test drive, there they go, downshifting at every stop. It has become sort of a running joke now since I've busted so many of them lying about it.
This bring me to the second thing, I got my most recent TJ to replace my last one from a wreck I was in and while it’s got a ton of great work on it…it’s on 37’s with like I said, I think just your average pads and rotors. I’ve been giving myself plenty of distance between other drivers on the roads and trying not to brake too hard because I know these current brakes are up to the task. What would you recommend of your BM brakes if I want to keep running 37’s? I’d plan to get them when these show signs of loss of abilities
You don't have to wait, go lock up the fronts. You'll know if they have sufficient abilities after that. All my stuff is for the TJ and JK inner C.
 
Not just Ford stuff. The bigger kits use Dodge and Ram calipers, pads, and rotors.
I knew that. I however, forgot to mention that. I think he’s out of luck with his Waggy axle, although there are probably other solutions for that setup to improve it, and as you said if he hasn’t truly tested it then who knows if he even needs more brake help anyways.
 
Wait so you only have BM brakes setup on the front axle? If so that’s definitely less of a blow than what I was thinking 2k front and rear lol. I’ve been heavily considering BM when I need new brakes
Correct. Only BM pads on the front with Centric rotors. The rear I just have Napa’s premium line.
 
We've discussed how manual owners use their brakes over the years since they are usually the first to hop up and say their brakes are fine in lots of brake discussions. By and large most of the deny downshifting to slow down. Then when I hop in the passenger seat to go for a test drive, there they go, downshifting at every stop. It has become sort of a running joke now since I've busted so many of them lying about it.

You don't have to wait, go lock up the fronts. You'll know if they have sufficient abilities after that. All my stuff is for the TJ and JK inner C.
Ah gotcha okay. Yeah I’ll fully admit I downshift lol.

So like Machoheadgames said, I’ve got a wagoner front Dana 44 and a tj rubicon rear. So it sounds like I’d be out of luck with what you offer?
 
Ah gotcha okay. Yeah I’ll fully admit I downshift lol.

So like Machoheadgames said, I’ve got a wagoner front Dana 44 and a tj rubicon rear. So it sounds like I’d be out of luck with what you offer?
Doesn't the Waggy axle use a D-52 caliper? Or is that a D-50?