Help identifying lower control arm

S

sprowls

Member
Supporting Member
Lifetime Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2020
Messages
32
Location
San Mateo, CA
This is my passenger side lower front control arm. These were on the jeep when I bought it. I thought the lift kit was a Rubicon Express, but these don’t look like the arms on their website. Maybe there are an older version. There is a snap ring on one side and the other side is not serviceable.

This part number is on the rod end 4144 I16H, is this a johnny joint?

I can easily move the silver ball joint by hand, so I‘m thinking they are worn.

914E42DF-0C6D-4BF5-90CB-515A89CC2920.jpeg


10858152-2E5A-436A-8960-C76770790A31.jpeg


0B125396-D1FF-422A-9A3F-E6FAEBB1F820.jpeg
 
sprowls said:
the other side is not serviceable.
Click to expand...
It's just a press fit Clevite type bushing. Just as serviceable as any other press in joint and it looks in decent shape. You might take the other side apart and see what you find. Loose probably isn't a great sign but I'm sure getting it apart and posting pictures of the guts will help.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sancho
Sorry, I wasn’t clear. I’m more concerned about the adjustable side of arm. I included the closeup of the rubber end in case it helped identify the control arm brand.
 
sprowls said:
Sorry, I wasn’t clear. I’m more concerned about the adjustable side of arm. I included the closeup of the rubber end in case it helped identify the control arm brand.
Click to expand...

Sorry I wasn't clear, I'm sure getting it apart and posting pictures of the guts will help. If you want to rebuild the joint you have to take it apart, do that.
 
Apologies, I reread your post and realized you meant to take apart the ball side not the clevite side.
 
  • Like
Reactions: pagrey
Pretty sure that is a Rough Country XFlex arm. The Joint is rebuildable with the kit from Rough Country.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SvtLdr
I'd still take it apart even if you know the joint, the kit normally doesn't include the ball and it could be toast. Actually I'm so cheap I'd just find out if I could shim it and move on. It's not like it's a fancy arm.
 
  • Like
Reactions: taylormade73
I agree it does look like the pictures on the rough country web site. I didn’t realize rough country made control arms until today.

Thanks for the help identifying the arms and rebuild kit.

I guess I need to decide whether I want to spend any money on these arms and whether I’m throwing good money after bad as I’m looking at $400 if I need to rebuild all the joints. Actually, if I’m reading it correctly, I need to replace the ends as they have discontinued the rebuild kits.
 
That’s a good idea. I was just looking and I think fixing these is half the cost of a new metal cloak set and a third the cost of savvy, and then I still have a cleaving bearing that is starting to go plus its limitations even in good condition.
 
  • Like
Reactions: pagrey
sprowls said:
That’s a good idea. I was just looking and I think fixing these is half the cost of a new metal cloak set and a third the cost of savvy, and then I still have a cleaving bearing that is starting to go plus its limitations even in good condition.
Click to expand...

Dumb question but I don't know the answer so I'll ask. Control arms are essentially a threaded steal tube right? What quality difference do you get with higher end arms?
 
Rickyd said:
Put a johnny joint end in the arm and reinstall. Don't use rough countrys flex joint
Click to expand...

Yep. If those flex joints need service it is the right time to upgrade. For the Clevite end you can also put in Dual Durometer bushings if you want to go fancy.
 
I’m not familiar with the dual durometer bushings. Is this an example? https://www.synergymfg.com/synergy-dual-durometer-bushing-ddb-series.html

So it seems I have the following choices
  1. Replace with Rough Country parts. Probably ~ $500 just for the rod ends and probably closer to $650 if I replace the clevites. After all that I’m back in the same place in 10 - 30K miles and I still have entry level arms
  2. keep the arms but replace rod ends with johnny joints and crevices with dual durometers. Looks like $200 for the dual durometers, and ~$500 for the johnny joints.
  3. Drop the coin on metal cloak or Savvy
  4. I don’t think stock arms are an option unless I go to a smaller lift/tires based on what I’ve read elsewhere on the forum.
These are on a ‘04 LJ with an unknown lift, I’m guessing 4”. It has 35x12.50x18 with nitto mud tires which I’m replacing with a set of 285x70x17s from a JK for now. Driving is majority on street with the intent to go off-roading more as I get it fixed up, but more trail running, not rock crawling. More getting out there to see things and places off the pavement rather than can I get through a crazy trail. I had it at hollister a couple of weeks ago and it was struggling on obstacles that my ’99 TJ with a 3 inch lift made it over easily.

So clearly option #2 is better than #1 since the cost seems to be roughly the same. Now I need to decide the trade off of rebuilding inferior arms or just buying new better arms. For the milder wheeling I’m doing am I going to notice much difference having the dual durometer bushings on the end vs a JJ/metalcloak?
 
sprowls said:
I’m not familiar with the dual durometer bushings. Is this an example? https://www.synergymfg.com/synergy-dual-durometer-bushing-ddb-series.html

So it seems I have the following choices
  1. Replace with Rough Country parts. Probably ~ $500 just for the rod ends and probably closer to $650 if I replace the clevites. After all that I’m back in the same place in 10 - 30K miles and I still have entry level arms
  2. keep the arms but replace rod ends with johnny joints and crevices with dual durometers. Looks like $200 for the dual durometers, and ~$500 for the johnny joints.
  3. Drop the coin on metal cloak or Savvy
  4. I don’t think stock arms are an option unless I go to a smaller lift/tires based on what I’ve read elsewhere on the forum.
These are on a ‘04 LJ with an unknown lift, I’m guessing 4”. It has 35x12.50x18 with nitto mud tires which I’m replacing with a set of 285x70x17s from a JK for now. Driving is majority on street with the intent to go off-roading more as I get it fixed up, but more trail running, not rock crawling. More getting out there to see things and places off the pavement rather than can I get through a crazy trail. I had it at hollister a couple of weeks ago and it was struggling on obstacles that my ’99 TJ with a 3 inch lift made it over easily.

So clearly option #2 is better than #1 since the cost seems to be roughly the same. Now I need to decide the trade off of rebuilding inferior arms or just buying new better arms. For the milder wheeling I’m doing am I going to notice much difference having the dual durometer bushings on the end vs a JJ/metalcloak?
Click to expand...

Yes those are the DDB. Arms with a JJ and a Clevite work just fine for a lot of folks so do not think going that route is inferior. Adding the DDB gets you almost to the level of dual JJ without the extra cost of buying all new arms.
 
sprowls said:
How hard is it to replace the clevites? Does it require a hydraulic press?
Click to expand...

A hydraulic press is nice but a ball joint press with some creativity works too. I find an air chisel helpful to fold the bushing in on itself before pressing makes life much easier.
 
Top Bottom
Back