Help with some wheel dimensions please?

Jeff Allan said:
Looks awesome, Chris. I like that look a lot. Your rubi looks killer. Tell me more about that supercharger. What does something like that cost.and how much do you gain in power.
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Jeff, thanks a lot! I've done so much to the Rubi that it's a never ending money pit!

The supercharger is sold by Boosted Technologies. It runs $2500 but it's 100% turn-key (meaning it's an easy to install kit and a very, very simply install that includes everything you need to be up and running in 3 or so hours).

Running 5-6 psi you can expect to see roughly 210-220 hp at the wheels and about 260-270 ft/lbs of torque. That's pretty damn amazing considering that a stock 4.0 puts down roughly 135 hp at the wheels! So, you're essentially almost doubling your output.

Believe me when I say it totally transforms the vehicle. You can pass on the highway with easy, and running 35" tires with a strong headwind doesn't hold you back one bit!
 
A big chunk o' coin but I bet it's awesome. It'd be one of those things, if I drove it, I'd have to get it. Ain't no going back to the stock one. What does something like that do to the mpg? If you driving normally. Better or worse? Any emissions concerns for passing tests?
 
Jeff Allan said:
A big chunk o' coin but I bet it's awesome. It'd be one of those things, if I drove it, I'd have to get it. Ain't no going back to the stock one. What does something like that do to the mpg? If you driving normally. Better or worse? Any emissions concerns for passing tests?
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Believe me when I say that $2500 for a supercharger kit is pennies compared to what you'd spend on a supercharger kit for most other vehicles. Case in point, I've owned numerous BMW M3s and a BMW M5. Supercharger kits for those vehicles (that add around the same amount of horsepower as this one) run upwards of $6000 all the way to $20,000 depending.

So, $2500 for a supercharger for a Jeep is chump change, trust me!

Anyways, the supercharger shouldn't affect the mpg much as long as you're not driving it in boost the entire time. If you're just cruising around town it shouldn't hurt your mpg more than a little bit. On the contrary, if you're flooring it every where you go, then you can obviously expect mpg to go down. There's a myth that says forced induction improves mpg, which is a complete lie.

No worries with emissions. It will pass emissions just fine as it doesn't throw any CELs (which is all that matters on OBDII vehicles). On the other hand if you live in a state where they do under-hood inspections (Oregon is not one of them) you may or may not pass the visual inspection (I can't personally comment on that one).
 
I thought maybe a little side benefit would be a few more mpgs or something. Been reading a few reviews on the cold air intakes on the rubi forums and some of those guys say they give some small benefits for not too much. I'd be more inclined to try something small like that, for fun, but some of them require some intense modding.
 
Jeff Allan said:
I thought maybe a little side benefit would be a few more mpgs or something. Been reading a few reviews on the cold air intakes on the rubi forums and some of those guys say they give some small benefits for not too much. I'd be more inclined to try something small like that, for fun, but some of them require some intense modding.
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Yeah, with the supercharger it's dumping in more fuel (under boost) so no way it's going to improve mpg. However, it will give you the biggest shit eating grin ever!
 
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lol..So back on topic,. I take it your not a big fan of the tires sticking out past the flares? Just flinging rocks/mud up more? I didn't really think about that. I'm torn if I should do this. I had to do a good bit of driving today and the KO2s in E load ride alright. Smooth rolling. I'm a creature of habit and my driving routine is pretty standard for years. I can already tell seems I'm getting better mpg with these bigger tires than the smaller MTRs. I kinda could tell just by how it rolls easier. I don't know if I need to move to the C load, but sure would be fun to dress it up with some new wheels. tire shop says I still can (they want to sell me some rims).
 
Jeff Allan said:
lol..So back on topic,. I take it your not a big fan of the tires sticking out past the flares? Just flinging rocks/mud up more? I didn't really think about that. I'm torn if I should do this. I had to do a good bit of driving today and the KO2s in E load ride alright. Smooth rolling. I'm a creature of habit and my driving routine is pretty standard for years. I can already tell seems I'm getting better mpg with these bigger tires than the smaller MTRs. I kinda could tell just by how it rolls easier. I don't know if I need to move to the C load, but sure would be fun to dress it up with some new wheels. tire shop says I still can (they want to sell me some rims).
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Oh no, I actually like that look a lot (the wheels sticking out). The issue is (and you very well may run into this) it's illegal in most (if not all) states, and to top that off it's annoying as hell if you plan on going in dirt, mud, gravel, etc. as it kicks stuff up all over the vehicle like no other.

Even with my wires sticking out maybe an inch paster the fenders it kicks up stuff like crazy. I don't get hassled for it though because it's only 1-1.5" so it's not enough for a cop to actually notice in my opinion (unless you were up close to the vehicle).

I plan on keeping mine the way it is now, but yes, I do prefer the look of wheels out past the fenders for sure.
 
Chris said:
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I realize this is an old thread but Im searching for a few days now and found exactly the thread I was seeking for info and knowledge. This is the set up that I have previously run on my YJ and JK. I now own a TJ and wanted to get this exact look. Chris what size tire and wheel are you running here in this photo? Is it the 16" Moab wheel with the stock Rubi flare?

I was hoping to do get a 285.75.16 size tire with the mr1x wheels but keep it under the flare or just have the sidewall stick out like this photo. But after trying a JK wheel and said tire size I saw it wasnt going to happen after I did the math. I think it would stick out 2" or so.

I cant seem to find any OEM 16" moab wheels for a decent price on craigslist so I was thinking on just buying new MR1X's.

Will I have to regear with a 6 cly. Auto trans? I think I have 3.73's in a dana 35(rear).
 
Gorilla said:
I realize this is an old thread but Im searching for a few days now and found exactly the thread I was seeking for info and knowledge. This is the set up that I have previously run on my YJ and JK. I now own a TJ and wanted to get this exact look. Chris what size tire and wheel are you running here in this photo? Is it the 16" Moab wheel with the stock Rubi flare?

I was hoping to do get a 285.75.16 size tire with the mr1x wheels but keep it under the flare or just have the sidewall stick out like this photo. But after trying a JK wheel and said tire size I saw it wasnt going to happen after I did the math. I think it would stick out 2" or so.

I cant seem to find any OEM 16" moab wheels for a decent price on craigslist so I was thinking on just buying new MR1X's.

Will I have to regear with a 6 cly. Auto trans? I think I have 3.73's in a dana 35(rear).
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That's a factory Moab wheel with the stock Rubicon flares and 285/75r16 Goodyear Duratracs.

With that setup, it just barely sticks out from the factory flares. Enough to look good, but not enough to kick rocks and such up.
 
Would you happen to know if the factory moab is the same bs as the mr1x wheel? I think the factory moab is 5" and the mr1x is 4.75. Im not exactly sure though. I tried this with a JK 16" mr1x and the tire stuck out plenty with a regular factory flare on my X package TJ. Im worried that if I chose this Mud Claw tire in 285.75.16, which is very close in specs with the Duratrac and the factory rubicon flare isnt going to cover it. After seeing your photo it gives me hope again but Im still worried about pulling the trigger as I can return tires(that I know of). Do you know the exact width of the factory rubicon flare? Just looking for some reassurance that this will work for me with the mr1x wheel. What gears are you running in your rear?
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Jeep flares are all different. The SE is a 2", the Sport, X 3" and the Rubi 4". That might be part of the difference. And I think all the TJ rims have a 5.5" BS.
 
Thanks billiebob. I wasnt aware of the differences on flare measurements between all TJ's.

Edit. I got in touch with Mamba and the bs of their wheels are 5". Getting somewhere now. :)
 
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