Hey guys, help me identify some stuff on an auction find TJ

Well this is decidedly not what I wanted to see. No bearing caps.

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What's my best option now? Find a complete Dana 44 assembly? I assume like most bearing caps they're matched to the housing and I can't just replace them.
 
Time for a new housing. That’s a bummer

I'd take a chance on another set of caps as a long shot first before I tossed the housing. Oddly, there are a ton of used ones on eBay for reasons I can not fathom but I'm glad they are there.

edit- I wouldn't try it for any front 30 or rear 35, but worth a shot on a Dana 44 rear.
 
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Well this is decidedly not what I wanted to see. No bearing caps.

View attachment 513663

What's my best option now? Find a complete Dana 44 assembly? I assume like most bearing caps they're matched to the housing and I can't just replace them.

They are matched but I've swapped some in before to save a housing that were nearly exact and worked just fine.
 
They are matched but I've swapped some in before to save a housing that were nearly exact and worked just fine.

That's crazy, I've never tried swapping any bearing caps around on anything.

On one hand, some used bearing caps are only $40. On the other hand, I still do need a carrier and gears and everything, and I would be pretty annoyed if I bought everything and the bearing caps DIDN'T work and I had a bad axle housing full of all new stuff.

I guess my first order of business is still to figure out what's in the front. I'm honestly kinda assuming it has 4.56 gears based on all the other mods. If so I might see if I can find Dana 44 housing with bearing caps locally.
 
That's crazy, I've never tried swapping any bearing caps around on anything.

Like I said, a fairly cheap long shot with a low chance of success but it has been done. The bearing races are also pretty tough so a very slight mismatch on the caps with the emphasis on slight isn't the end of the world. I just bolted them up and kept flipping them around and side to side until they were pretty good. If they need to shift ever so slightly up or down to get rid of a small offset, you can take a round file and slot the holes in the cap a slight amount. The races don't turn, we just need to keep them lined up and clamped in place without distorting them.
 
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Like I said, a fairly cheap long shot with a low chance of success but it has been done. The bearing races are also pretty tough so a very slight mismatch on the caps with the emphasis on slight isn't the end of the world. I just bolted them up and kept flipping them around and side to side until they were pretty good. If they need to shift ever so slightly up or down to get rid of a small offset, you can take a round file and slot the holes in the cap a slight amount. The races don't turn, we just need to keep them lined up and clamped in place without distorting them.

Yeah a local jeep friend of mine said he would just replace the bearing caps and send it too. I'll see how brave I feel, lol
 
If you put it in 2hi does the yoke on the rear of the TC spin (does it actually spin relative to the speed you set it or just barely spin)? Does your speedometer work?
 
If you put it in 2hi does the yoke on the rear of the TC spin (does it actually spin relative to the speed you set it or just barely spin)? Does your speedometer work?

Haven't checked, but the jeep does drive in 4hi. I have only driven it around the lot for obvious reasons, but the front wheels pull in 4hi. Speedometer works.

I'll check the output shaft when I get it on the lift next week. What are you thinking?
 
Haven't checked, but the jeep does drive in 4hi. I have only driven it around the lot for obvious reasons, but the front wheels pull in 4hi. Speedometer works.

I'll check the output shaft when I get it on the lift next week. What are you thinking?

Just didn't know if you needed to open up the transfer case or not. If it wasn't spinning you would have a problem. I emphasized actual spinning because I know the front yoke will technically spin some without the front driveshaft connected in 2hi. You should be able to do it without a lift.

I'm not sure why they installed the SLE if you didn't have adjustable control arms to dial in your pinion angle.

Even if you end up buying a new/used dana 44 rear, I'd pull the axle shafts out hoping they are aftermarket chromoly.
 
Just didn't know if you needed to open up the transfer case or not. If it wasn't spinning you would have a problem. I emphasized actual spinning because I know the front yoke will technically spin some without the front driveshaft connected in 2hi. You should be able to do it without a lift.

I'm not sure why they installed the SLE if you didn't have adjustable control arms to dial in your pinion angle.

Even if you end up buying a new/used dana 44 rear, I'd pull the axle shafts out hoping they are aftermarket chromoly.

The way it's angled upward actually looks like it does have adjustable control arms. I'll check when I get it in the shop, because before I order any parts I need to know what gears are in the front diff. No matter what I do I'm gonna need the rear diff to have the same gearing, or if it's stock I'm going to want to re-gear both.

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Looks like it's pointed up by quite a few degrees but it's pretty hard to tell with nothing attached do it.
 
The way it's angled upward actually looks like it does have adjustable control arms. I'll check when I get it in the shop, because before I order any parts I need to know what gears are in the front diff. No matter what I do I'm gonna need the rear diff to have the same gearing, or if it's stock I'm going to want to re-gear both.

View attachment 513704

Looks like it's pointed up by quite a few degrees but it's pretty hard to tell with nothing attached do it.

It has at least, adjustable uppers. The factory ones are not round like your are. I mean, I guess there could be aftermarket fixed length control arms....but that would be REALLY dumb. With an SYE, I'd bet quite a bit that you have adjustable uppers.
 
I'd take a chance on another set of caps as a long shot first before I tossed the housing. Oddly, there are a ton of used ones on eBay for reasons I can not fathom but I'm glad they are there.

edit- I wouldn't try it for any front 30 or rear 35, but worth a shot on a Dana 44 rear.

That is really strange...Someone bends a housing, then posts the caps? weird...But, yeah, I guess a set of used caps is way cheaper than a new housing.
 
That is really strange...Someone bends a housing, then posts the caps? weird...But, yeah, I guess a set of used caps is way cheaper than a new housing.

Yeah it's definitely a tempting option. If the caps were there I was all set to just order a carrier and gears and be rolling.
 
It has at least, adjustable uppers. The factory ones are not round like your are. I mean, I guess there could be aftermarket fixed length control arms....but that would be REALLY dumb. With an SYE, I'd bet quite a bit that you have adjustable uppers.

Yeah that's why I'm also betting the front diff does not have 3.73's in it. If the previous owner went to the trouble to do a lift, tires, SYE, adjustable control arms, etc. I'm gonna bet he also did gears.