Hey guys, help me identify some stuff on an auction find TJ

mzsigler said:
Yeah that's why I'm also betting the front diff does not have 3.73's in it. If the previous owner went to the trouble to do a lift, tires, SYE, adjustable control arms, etc. I'm gonna bet he also did gears.
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I’m way less confident in that. People deal with bad gearing far more than terrible driveline vibrations (the reason for the SYE)
 
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sab said:
Yes. They are only structurally held onto the center section with plug welds.
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Nice, I think this might be what I go with then, I'd rather not take my chances on random carrier bearing caps. If I can get a center section and install it and at least have the matching bearing caps, that would be a decent starting point.
 
Mike_H said:
I mean, I guess there could be aftermarket fixed length control arms....but that would be REALLY dumb.
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This is what came on mine when I bought it.

3 1/2” Rancho lift with Fixed lowers front and rear. Even cooler, the Springs weren’t 3 1/2”, Rancho had a Spring/spacer combo as their springs in their lift kit.

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sab said:
Yes. They are only structurally held onto the center section with plug welds.
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Sorta, there is also a fair bit of an interference fit between the tube and the cast center section. Currie heats up the casting in an oven and then gets after it with a big press. I've also helped Jack remove a bunch of tubes from centers and they don't like to leave without a lot of force.
 
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mzsigler said:
Nice, I think this might be what I go with then, I'd rather not take my chances on random carrier bearing caps. If I can get a center section and install it and at least have the matching bearing caps, that would be a decent starting point.
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I'd encourage you to try and remove the tubes from the center you have now. It may not be as much fun as you think.
 
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cpwolf said:
This is what came on mine when I bought it.

3 1/2” Rancho lift with Fixed lowers front and rear. Even cooler, the Springs weren’t 3 1/2”, Rancho had a Spring/spacer combo as their springs in their lift kit.

View attachment 515251

View attachment 515255

View attachment 515257
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Yeah, I'm aware of the lower fixed arms. I forgot to include the word "upper" in my post. I'm not aware of any aftermarket fixed length upper control arms. (I'm sure someone will be along to prove me wrong on that).
 
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mrblaine said:
I'd encourage you to try and remove the tubes from the center you have now. It may not be as much fun as you think.
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I don’t think any of this is going to be fun honestly, lol.

I just really don’t like the idea of using random carrier bearing caps.
 
mrblaine said:
Sorta, there is also a fair bit of an interference fit between the tube and the cast center section. Currie heats up the casting in an oven and then gets after it with a big press. I've also helped Jack remove a bunch of tubes from centers and they don't like to leave without a lot of force.
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I figured there was some interference there, but haven’t ever messed with it, didn’t know how much. Good to know it’s not trivial (either from the standpoint of durability or planning to remove the tubes)!
 
sab said:
I figured there was some interference there, but haven’t ever messed with it, didn’t know how much. Good to know it’s not trivial (either from the standpoint of durability or planning to remove the tubes)!
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I don't think you can get them to move without at least 7-8 tons of press on the out. In is less with heating the tube sockets helping a bunch. The glaring elephant in the room though is I don't have direct experience with a TJ Dana 44.
 
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cpwolf said:
The more glaring thing I see, is having equipment to even consider doing this, would be my observation.
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You can push the tubes out from the inside with a porta power and cylinder. The hardest part is getting the welds burned out of the tubes large enough to free the tube, not so large you ruin the casting.
 
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