New Jeep, Help Identify What I Have

[annihil8ted]

You have a leaking axle seal, DR side, rear diff.

Thank you, I missed that. I'll take a look again when I get back but what is the risk of a leaking axle seal? Is it dust intrusion or gear oil coming out and the diff being dry?

Bright side though--it has a currie tie rod and drag link!

Nice! I think haha, how could you tell? Trying to learn the difference between all the various products

The steering stabilizer mount on the Currie Currectlync drag link is in the wrong orientation; you need to rotate the stabilizer mount CCW 90*.

Good catch! How much of an impact would something like that have?

 

[tworley]

Nice! I think haha, how could you tell? Trying to learn the difference between all the various products

You can tell its a currie currectlync by the way it is!

But really, the currie set up is very distinct and what you have is it. The currie set up is the best one out there. Especially if you play in the rocks. The tie rod ends are angled to allow for a bit more suspension travel, its 1.25" thick and solid, provides the same stock geometry. Black Magic Brakes also offers their upgraded tie rod (4340). Its a $700 steering setup you have.

 

[CharlesHS]

Good catch! How much of an impact would something like that have?

You should notice a difference when you are flexing the suspension or when the steering is approaching the steering stops.

 

[annihil8ted]

I took a quick comparison to my stock TJ and I see the difference for sure now. It's a lot beefier and the cuff seems more heavy duty. Glad to hear it can handle some rocks! I plan to take it more into the brush and overlanding but you never know the occasional need for rock crawling

I do also plan on flipping the stabilizer mount. I don’t think that’s the source of my death wobble but if it’s get me by a little longer, that works for me.

So I know everyone said my TeraFlex control arms are terrible, how about these?
https://www.facebook.com/share/p/mvwmYQu8gf9jEE84/?mibextid=79PoIi

I know they need to be rebuilt but wanted to see if it was worth it in the first place


Nevermind, looks like they may be even worse as they are Heim joints

 

[annihil8ted]

Took it to the nearest 4 Wheel Parts store to get it evaluated and this is what they came back with:


Feels kinda pricy is my first reaction

I'm going to skip all the shock work, I'd love to use Fox but those are way out of budget. I already have a set too as I had a suspicion the shocks were all going out due to the harsh ride. I must have been hitting on the bump stops half the time.

It looks like they're also saying I have some u joint issue. Is there a way I can check this on my own? I have crawled under to take a look and aside from what feels like a little bigger than usual lash in the front shaft, everything else feels fine. No vibrations going down the road. I'm incline to let this one wait a little longer if it's even needed?

They also said slop in my steering geometry was to blame for the death wobble issue. It looks like they're asking to replace the tie rods, drag link and trackbar. Is that something that can be serviced instead? I am also planning to do this part on my own as it doesn't look hard.

 

[JeepxMopar]

Took it to the nearest 4 Wheel Parts store to get it evaluated and this is what they came back with:

View attachment 534479
Feels kinda pricy is my first reaction

I'm going to skip all the shock work, I'd love to use Fox but those are way out of budget. I already have a set too as I had a suspicion the shocks were all going out due to the harsh ride. I must have been hitting on the bump stops half the time.

It looks like they're also saying I have some u joint issue. Is there a way I can check this on my own? I have crawled under to take a look and aside from what feels like a little bigger than usual lash in the front shaft, everything else feels fine. No vibrations going down the road. I'm incline to let this one wait a little longer if it's even needed?

They also said slop in my steering geometry was to blame for the death wobble issue. It looks like they're asking to replace the tie rods, drag link and trackbar. Is that something that can be serviced instead? I am also planning to do this part on my own as it doesn't look hard.

Hello,
I’d replace the u joints as it’s not that difficult and can save you a serious hassle down the road when a driveshaft falls off. ( speaking from experience) Also , fox shocks are good but pricey like you said, rancho is a very good ‘getting by’ option that’s more affordable in my opinion. Belle tire will service the alignment affordably but it is possible to do on your own too, just some work to get it all right. Just my 2 cents

 

[Artsifrtsi]

Took it to the nearest 4 Wheel Parts store to get it evaluated and this is what they came back with:

View attachment 534479
Feels kinda pricy is my first reaction

I'm going to skip all the shock work, I'd love to use Fox but those are way out of budget. I already have a set too as I had a suspicion the shocks were all going out due to the harsh ride. I must have been hitting on the bump stops half the time.

It looks like they're also saying I have some u joint issue. Is there a way I can check this on my own? I have crawled under to take a look and aside from what feels like a little bigger than usual lash in the front shaft, everything else feels fine. No vibrations going down the road. I'm incline to let this one wait a little longer if it's even needed?

They also said slop in my steering geometry was to blame for the death wobble issue. It looks like they're asking to replace the tie rods, drag link and trackbar. Is that something that can be serviced instead? I am also planning to do this part on my own as it doesn't look hard.

Like was said, you already have the curry link they are recommending @ $750. For $155, that front IFS alignment is useless, search on this site how to set your toe… it’s about the only thing you can do on most Jeeps.

 

[annihil8ted]

I talked to the shop some more and it looks like it’s just the tie rods that are worn. They put drag link and track bar as labor costs for tie rod install

Like was said, you already have the curry link they are recommending @ $750. For $155, that front IFS alignment is useless, search on this site how to set your toe… it’s about the only thing you can do on most Jeeps.

Are you saying that the curry link is likely good? Or that there’s something I can do to service it?

For alignment, I’m thinking of using Firestone with their lifetime alignment. It’s 180 with coupon and the shops near me allow for custom specs. If I go 18 times, it's only 10$ a pop (car math lol)

I also realized that I never posted but it’s riding on 32 inch tires (255/75/17)

 

[Rickyd]

I wouldn't let them change out the currie parts without careful diagnosis. They are expensive. Your estimate is blurry so its hard to tell what they plan.

Worn front track bar and imbalanced/out of round tires/wheels would be high on my list of DW causes

 

[Rickyd]

Are you saying that the curry link is likely good?

with someone wiggling the steering wheel for you put your hand on each joint of the steering and the next part it connects to. You will easily feel if the joints are worn by movement in the joint

 

[annihil8ted]

I'll probably take it to another shops and ask for a second opinion

Just a note, it looks like the u joint they are referring to wasn't the one on the drive shaft but the ones on the front axle

with someone wiggling the steering wheel for you put your hand on each joint of the steering and the next part it connects to. You will easily feel if the joints are worn by movement in the joint

My steering wheel has what feels like slop of maybe 2-3 degrees and it tighten up once you push past that. I figured that was normal but maybe this is not the case?

For the test, is that power steering off or powersteering on?

 

[Artsifrtsi]

I talked to the shop some more and it looks like it’s just the tie rods that are worn. They put drag link and track bar as labor costs for tie rod install


Are you saying that the curry link is likely good? Or that there’s something I can do to service it?

For alignment, I’m thinking of using Firestone with their lifetime alignment. It’s 180 with coupon and the shops near me allow for custom specs. If I go 18 times, it's only 10$ a pop (car math lol)

I also realized that I never posted but it’s riding on 32 inch tires (255/75/17)

For that $180, you can buy all the tools you need to do the alignment in your garage/driveway nearly 3 times over. The fronts you have cam bolts that are almost completely maxed out to push the castor angle. The only thing left up front would be toe…. The rear, you have adjustable lower arms, so you could set the pinion angle, and a little of thrust angle. Once set properly though, the only thing that might change is the toe.

 

[Rickyd]

I'll probably take it to another shops and ask for a second opinion

Just a note, it looks like the u joint they are referring to wasn't the one on the drive shaft but the ones on the front axle

My steering wheel has what feels like slop of maybe 2-3 degrees and it tighten up once you push past that. I figured that was normal but maybe this is not the case?

For the test, is that power steering off or powersteering on?

Having the motor on makes it easier. You can check your trackbar joints and steering box the same way. Have them wiggle the wheel back and forth so the tire moves 1/4" or so back and forth.

 

[annihil8ted]

For that $180, you can buy all the tools you need to do the alignment in your garage/driveway nearly 3 times over. The fronts you have cam bolts that are almost completely maxed out to push the castor angle. The only thing left up front would be toe…. The rear, you have adjustable lower arms, so you could set the pinion angle, and a little of thrust angle. Once set properly though, the only thing that might change is the toe.

Sounds like I've got some learning to do!

Having the motor on makes it easier. You can check your trackbar joints and steering box the same way. Have them wiggle the wheel back and forth so the tire moves 1/4" or so back and forth.

Would failed part movement be sudden or more so grind-y when I perform this test?

 

[Rickyd]

Sounds like I've got some learning to do!




Would failed part movement be sudden or more so grind-y when I perform this test?

The two hard parts between the joint will move in relation to each other.meaning the joint has slop and is allowing that movement.

 

[Artsifrtsi]

Sounds like I've got some learning to do!




Would failed part movement be sudden or more so grind-y when I perform this test?

And it may be difficult to see, requiring a long look. If you pay attention to the way the joints all move, you could put your hand on then (being sure you’re not going to be pinched/crushed) and feel for the movement too.

 

[annihil8ted]

Not to bring back my old chat but I finally found time to do some work this upcoming weekend. Wanted to check to see if control arms are possible for death wobble? I've been doing research and since my control arms suck anyways, I'm not opposed to replacing them. Stock control arms are cheap enough but I'm wondering if it's okay with the 3" lift? I don't plan to take this rig anywhere serious, just casual trails and logging trails

 

[AndyG]

Not to bring back my old chat but I finally found time to do some work this upcoming weekend. Wanted to check to see if control arms are possible for death wobble? I've been doing research and since my control arms suck anyways, I'm not opposed to replacing them. Stock control arms are cheap enough but I'm wondering if it's okay with the 3" lift? I don't plan to take this rig anywhere serious, just casual trails and logging trails

The passenger side upper front certainly can contribute -

If you toe it out 5/8” of an inch and it stops it, you have work to do.

 

[annihil8ted]

The passenger side upper front certainly can contribute -

If you toe it out 5/8” of an inch and it stops it, you have work to do.

Bear with me as I'm trying to learn, why does passenger side upper front and toeing out help diagnose death wobble?

 

[AndyG]

Bear with me as I'm trying to learn, why does passenger side upper front and toeing out help diagnose death wobble?

The passenger side upper front control arm bushing will contribute to death wobble if it becomes loose, worn or soft.

When you toe/ bring the tires out- Which is a temporary way to evaluate- You are essentially defeating the stability that particular joint contributes. This is done with the centering sleeve on the tire rod.

Don’t be intimidated we have a good illustrations guys can post and we can help you figure this out I’m just doing this on the fly as I’m working.

Have faith. It can be fixed.