OP
Good to know. Are the cable lugs copper?
Ah! Good technical reading! Yes, a maximum. As in no more than 1/2 belt rib of misalignment per 6". No misalignment is ideal.
High travel, high clearance & high octane, a streetable adventure LJ story
- Thread starter toximus
- Start date
Good to know. Are the cable lugs copper?
Ah! Good technical reading! Yes, a maximum. As in no more than 1/2 belt rib of misalignment per 6". No misalignment is ideal.
OP
I had originally oriented the fuel cell to better fit the space but this placed the fillerneck on the passenger side of the Jeep. I have a pet peeve when cars have the gas cap on the wrong side.
To submit to my unyielding struggle with this problem, I came up with an idea to run the filler hose across the top of the tank. However if the pavement at a gas station isn't level it could cause fuel to pool in the filler hose before being pushed into the tank. If filling from a jug that isn't a problem, but a sensitive gas station pump could detect that as the tank being full and keep clicking off.
An alternative is to slope the hose from the fillerneck to the tank although that may also cause slow filling due to not enough angle and it also gets in the way of grabbing stuff out of the back from the passenger's seat.
To see exactly how the cell sits with the fillerneck on the driver's side I spun it around.
The tank now sits about 1-1/2" off the floor which is about 1" higher than the other way. I don't have concerns about the ever so slightly higher center of gravity but I don't like having so much wasted space. The filler neck angle problem is solved however which does restore my sanity.
I could get the tank altered to 35" wide to fit in the tub (it's currently ~37") but that is cost prohibitive and not worth the gains at this point. If I dent the fender wells I think I can lower the cell slightly more.
The "differential cutout" lines up with the cup holders on the center console. I do like my drinks while driving!
To submit to my unyielding struggle with this problem, I came up with an idea to run the filler hose across the top of the tank. However if the pavement at a gas station isn't level it could cause fuel to pool in the filler hose before being pushed into the tank. If filling from a jug that isn't a problem, but a sensitive gas station pump could detect that as the tank being full and keep clicking off.
An alternative is to slope the hose from the fillerneck to the tank although that may also cause slow filling due to not enough angle and it also gets in the way of grabbing stuff out of the back from the passenger's seat.
To see exactly how the cell sits with the fillerneck on the driver's side I spun it around.
The tank now sits about 1-1/2" off the floor which is about 1" higher than the other way. I don't have concerns about the ever so slightly higher center of gravity but I don't like having so much wasted space. The filler neck angle problem is solved however which does restore my sanity.
I could get the tank altered to 35" wide to fit in the tub (it's currently ~37") but that is cost prohibitive and not worth the gains at this point. If I dent the fender wells I think I can lower the cell slightly more.
The "differential cutout" lines up with the cup holders on the center console. I do like my drinks while driving!
OP
I came up with a game plan and have ordered the materials for mounting the fuel cell. It may be a few days until my orders arrive so I'm working on other areas in the meantime.
The welder finally got to my rear flares and he welded the relocated upper tabs on. I drilled and bolted the flares on. They are easy enough to remove on tight trails and leave in camp.
The welder finally got to my rear flares and he welded the relocated upper tabs on. I drilled and bolted the flares on. They are easy enough to remove on tight trails and leave in camp.
Coming along nice as ever!
I must have missed it, but why did someone else do the welding on the rear flares? I was under the impression you did all the welding yourself?
Are you going to paint the aluminum? I would assume not, but I wasn't sure.
I must have missed it, but why did someone else do the welding on the rear flares? I was under the impression you did all the welding yourself?
Are you going to paint the aluminum? I would assume not, but I wasn't sure.
OP
Thank you!
I have done all of the welding myself except for welding the 2 relocated tabs to each rear flare. They are aluminum and I don't have the gear for welding aluminum or the skills. I suppose I could learn, but it just didn't make sense at this point for such a small thing.
My plan has been to paint all of the aluminum red to match my Jeep but I'm starting to second guess myself. I don't mind the look of scratched raw aluminum as much as I mind scratched paint so it might be easier to leave it as is. Although I do think freshly painted red would look amazing.
A little thing that I'm going to take advantage of at some point. Powder coat done well is a very good finish. It is limited in color choices. So, the way you get around that is pick a power coat color first. Have something done, and then have your auto paint matched to that color. There are lots of red in PC that would have been very close, but not quite perfect. Picking a PC color and then having that matched with something you spray would have solved the flare problem. Also solves the touch up problem.
i like it raw, if it should take a gouge or rough scuff it's easy enough to bust out the scotch brite buff off the rough stuff and not have to repaint. gentle touch and you could refinish those surfaces as often as you like.
Makes sense. I think they would look awesome red (especially if you did the flares in black). However, if they're just going to get a lot of pin-striping on them, I suppose from a functional standpoint it makes more sense to leave them raw.
Either way, it looks like you're finally getting close to the home stretch!
OP
I was thinking about this while working on my Jeep today. It really would look nice painted. I found a new unpainted cowl that I'm going to hold off on until I decide.
OP
I replaced a few various nuts and bolts around the Jeep with better fitting sizes. I'm going to gloss over most of that since it's boring.
For additional electrical protection the under hood aux fuse block now sits on a thin 1/8" sheet of UHMW on top of the 3/16 aluminum plate.
For additional electrical protection the under hood aux fuse block now sits on a thin 1/8" sheet of UHMW on top of the 3/16 aluminum plate.
OP
I have replaced all of my brake lines except for the two short jumpers between the MC and proportioning valve. I finally received the bubble flare tube nuts to make it happen.
Parts list:
Unfortunately this meant that I had to pull the fender to get to the lower nuts.
I had a rough start since the tubing kept cracking on every double flare. I thought I was over work hardening by using my older tubing cutter so I ran to town to buy another, only the tubing kept cracking as soon as I'd press the second flare. I had just opened a new roll of tubing so I found some scraps from the last roll and tried those — each double flare came out perfectly. I ended up discovering that the "seamless" tubing had 3 seams that the cracks were forming on. As I was cleaning up to move on I found some spare lengths of tube I had sitting on the shelf. Luckily it was just enough to finish.
Parts list:
- 10mm x 1.0 bubble flare stainless steel nut (Inline Tube STN24)
- 12mm x 1.0 bubble flare stainless steel nut (Inline Tube STN27)
- 7/16"-24 inverted flare nut (Summit 220237)
- 1/2"-20 inverted flare nut (Summit 220237)
- 3/16" annealed stainless steel tubing (Eastwood 30994)
Unfortunately this meant that I had to pull the fender to get to the lower nuts.
I had a rough start since the tubing kept cracking on every double flare. I thought I was over work hardening by using my older tubing cutter so I ran to town to buy another, only the tubing kept cracking as soon as I'd press the second flare. I had just opened a new roll of tubing so I found some scraps from the last roll and tried those — each double flare came out perfectly. I ended up discovering that the "seamless" tubing had 3 seams that the cracks were forming on. As I was cleaning up to move on I found some spare lengths of tube I had sitting on the shelf. Luckily it was just enough to finish.
that UHMW is versatile stuff. i use it for everything, electrical component isolator's and standoffs.
i got 3" round for bump stops. everything mounted to my alum inner fenders has it between.
kinda surprised it hasn't found it's way along frame rails and skids, it's made to slide. and on rub rails similar to what you have along the tub. or along the rocker, bottom of gas tank skids.
i got a huge 3.5x9 block i'd love to machine into my rear diff skid.
i got 3" round for bump stops. everything mounted to my alum inner fenders has it between.
kinda surprised it hasn't found it's way along frame rails and skids, it's made to slide. and on rub rails similar to what you have along the tub. or along the rocker, bottom of gas tank skids.
i got a huge 3.5x9 block i'd love to machine into my rear diff skid.
OP
It actually is used quite often for lining skids. It used to be talked about a lot more 10 years ago. The big issue with it is that UHMW ends up gouging and falling apart with our relatively heavy Jeeps. It's much more effective for ATVs and UTVs since the weight of those doesn't ruin it as quickly. I have seen it still being used on the competition level but my understanding is that it's replaced after each event which isn't practical for most guys just wanting to have fun.
I'm sure Blaine has more first hand knowledge about it than I do so if I've missed something feel free to correct me.
OP
To route my light bar wiring out I drilled a small hole in the windshield trim in the top corner so the door can close without straining the wiring and the top still seals.
Now that you have a roller, have you played with the audio much? Are you still satisfied with the C2's? How much power (RMS) are you running to them? Also, what exactly did you do to the front baffles? I also have the same baffles with the polk DB's but other than a small hole to run the wires thru, they are sealed.
OP
I'm still very happy with the JL C2 speakers. On one of my test drives I streamed some music over bluetooth. For having no muffler, no windows, and big off road tires the music was still very audible at half volume. At full volume it over powered the engine and still wasn't distorted — I had to turn the music down since it was too loud for me even while chirping the tires at 35mph. I can tell that I'm going to be even happier once I get a muffler on and some windows. Ever since I've had the battery under the hood I've had tunes pumping in the garage. Their ability to separate vocals from instruments for heavy metal (I find this genre is the hardest test on speakers) even when I'm across the garage or under the Jeep is great and even better when seated in the Jeep. Walking across the garage to grab a tool become a trip to the dance floor (I'll even admit to busting a move
).The first amp (KTA-30FW) puts out 75 watts RMS to the 4 speakers. And the second amp (KTA-30MW) puts out 300 watts RMS to the sub.
For the front baffles I cut a ~1/2" hole into the bottom/rear of each for drainage and airflow. Without I was finding that the speakers would pull a vacuum on the baffles and "top out" the output.
While the speakers are sounding more fluid as they've broken in, my original review for them still stands: they are slightly warm but I think still well matched for the available mounting locations in a Jeep. If I were to focus solely on sound and not worried about space or offroading my Jeep I'd look into alternative enclosures, moving the tweeters up, upgrading the speakers to the JL C5 line, and upgrading the subwoofer since the Kicker I have replicates tones into the mids like you'd except from a woofer and not clean enough as a sub. But that's not my priority for this build and would lead to compromises on my main goals. However I think that's beside the point, the big appeal to the 5.25" C2s is that you don't have to fiddle with them, baffles, pods, LP/HP filters, timing, fitting 6.5" into the cage pods, etc, they sound great out of the box and if you spend another 10 minutes setting up filters on the amp you can get even more out of them. The downside is that they are power hungry monsters that require a big relatively expensive amp to drive them.
All in all, I think it's a high quality upgrade that's easy to do and doesn't leave me wanting more.
OP
For anyone that missed it, I installed several different sets of speakers which I covered a few months ago: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...e-adventure-lj-story.9956/page-29#post-425723 and continues on for a few posts.
Thanks for the explanation. I can see how those speakers with that much power could suck in those foam baffles. The magnets on the back of those look pretty big. I don't think I have that problem with the Polks and the wimpier 22 watts from the HU. I almost got the JL C1's when I was shopping for new speakers, but the Polks were on sale and won out. I've used JL's subs in the past and have been happy with them.
are you able to share? what do i need to hook it to? i need to loose the can and tuck it all up.
OP
Connect the port to the charcoal can to the port from the charcoal can with either one of the hoses. Basically just bypass the charcoal canister.