@jscherb modified his rear window, so I’m sure he is familiar with the material and how to make an opening. Thoughts?
High travel, high clearance & high octane, a streetable adventure LJ story
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That is what I had imagined for a cloth opening, but it need to be in the plastic window. I had a similar one in my canvas hot tent.
need the tinted vinyl now, not material.
a little more conspicuous the but the tint should lend to masking it some. anything sewn into the vinyl will perforate it and could seep, so maybe opt for a clear sealant in addition to the sewn top edge.
unless you think you could plastic heat weld it (that'd be the risky way).
for the window i might think more of a small plastic trap door, it'd be more visible but could offer a tight seal and neat/clean appearance.
gonna ponder this overnight, 4 am comes early. i'll ask the electricians at work tomrw see what options they know of for a small lightweight enclosure door.
a little more conspicuous the but the tint should lend to masking it some. anything sewn into the vinyl will perforate it and could seep, so maybe opt for a clear sealant in addition to the sewn top edge.
unless you think you could plastic heat weld it (that'd be the risky way).
for the window i might think more of a small plastic trap door, it'd be more visible but could offer a tight seal and neat/clean appearance.
gonna ponder this overnight, 4 am comes early. i'll ask the electricians at work tomrw see what options they know of for a small lightweight enclosure door.
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@jscherb Have you worked with the tinted windows before? If I press out a circle in the window and clamp an aluminum ring on each side of the panel do you see any reason why it wouldn't hold up long term? I'd use many small bolts around the ring for clamping. Using a gasket between the window and the aluminum ring seems like it'd only cause inconsistent pressure (Maybe RTV would be better)?
We had talked about using a plastic kayak hatch a few months ago. They're just so big and ugly imho.
Why not use a 4” black RV access hatch? They are plastic and seal well.
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Sewer/J...MIi52W1ouU6AIVkIbACh02LguNEAQYAyABEgL88PD_BwE
EzPeezy
TJ Enthusiast
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNDX4VG/?tag=wranglerorg-20
A stitching awl has been a great auxiliary tool for Jeep soft top stuff. It's super easy to use and makes a very strong lock stitch. If you plot out your stitches and don't just willy-nilly it you can make a pretty presentable product (using black thread instead of the natural color probably. Probably not useful if you're going through the vinyl, but it would work great on the sailcloth.
A stitching awl has been a great auxiliary tool for Jeep soft top stuff. It's super easy to use and makes a very strong lock stitch. If you plot out your stitches and don't just willy-nilly it you can make a pretty presentable product (using black thread instead of the natural color probably. Probably not useful if you're going through the vinyl, but it would work great on the sailcloth.
just a tiny access port that wont weigh on the window, and cause stretching.
https://www.pellandent.com/Electrical-Hatchthat piece BuildBreakRepeat posted is cleaner looking.
a square cut piece of the vinyl and border it with some magnetic strips, if the cap and mount are tight to the fabric it could cling to the bracket. the magnets would give a decent seal.
https://www.pellandent.com/Electrical-Hatchthat piece BuildBreakRepeat posted is cleaner looking.
a square cut piece of the vinyl and border it with some magnetic strips, if the cap and mount are tight to the fabric it could cling to the bracket. the magnets would give a decent seal.
there you go, a thin aluminum ring inside, a thin steel ring outside and magnetic flap.
i'm gonna be in this same conundrum so i have a definite reason to find a clean way to accomplish this.
I could have sworn that I read in this thread that you pulled the factory roll bars and welded in something custom, something a little more robust. 
It had me thinking of a tried and true solution to your fuel cell filler requirement; tied-in to the cage for a really clean look.
However it seems to fall short of being a true solution for you since you will be running a soft top.
It had me thinking of a tried and true solution to your fuel cell filler requirement; tied-in to the cage for a really clean look.
However it seems to fall short of being a true solution for you since you will be running a soft top.
What a great build. I've spent the last few days off and on reading it from the beginning and it's given me some great ideas. One thought on the gas flap, Velcro will allow wind and water intrusion and could freeze itself shut. It seems like what @BuildBreakRepeat posted is a good concept and doesn't look like ass. Can't wait to see this thing when it's all tuned up. Cheers.
custom is tricky.
your often the 1st to try, and your kinda on the bubble to produce something your happy with, even proud of. while at the same time making it appealing to others.
your often the 1st to try, and your kinda on the bubble to produce something your happy with, even proud of. while at the same time making it appealing to others.
I found some info on the VST nozzles in California: https://ww3.arb.ca.gov/regact/2018/gdfnozzles2018/isor.pdf
If I'm reading the diagram and chart correctly, there is about 2.6" of insertable length until the aspirator port. Meaning, I need gas to start flowing downward before 2.6" so I don't get flow back. I also am not sure those VST pumps are going to like my vented tank (a spring loaded valve on the vent line may solve that problem if it doesn't work).
The "nozzle latch ring" on the VST nozzles should retain the nozzle to my gas neck. However in my earlier tests I still need to solve that problem for other pumps. It seems that the fool proof solution to retaining all gas station nozzles so they don't slip out is to use an "unleaded flapper" (basically a smaller hole within the gas cap to "pinch and grab" onto the nozzle, just like the stock TJ). The insert could be removable so if I find that I'm using dump cans often I could increase the hole size again, but honestly 9 times out of 10 I'll be using a gas station pump so I want that to work best.
I received the 45* and 90* rubber angles and am playing around with ideas and then will start testing them at gas stations before cutting the top.
Does anyone have a junk soft top panel with tinted windows I could use for practice cutting and make sure it cuts how I think it will? TJ, LJ, or ripped is fine. I'll happily pay shipping.
If I'm reading the diagram and chart correctly, there is about 2.6" of insertable length until the aspirator port. Meaning, I need gas to start flowing downward before 2.6" so I don't get flow back. I also am not sure those VST pumps are going to like my vented tank (a spring loaded valve on the vent line may solve that problem if it doesn't work).
The "nozzle latch ring" on the VST nozzles should retain the nozzle to my gas neck. However in my earlier tests I still need to solve that problem for other pumps. It seems that the fool proof solution to retaining all gas station nozzles so they don't slip out is to use an "unleaded flapper" (basically a smaller hole within the gas cap to "pinch and grab" onto the nozzle, just like the stock TJ). The insert could be removable so if I find that I'm using dump cans often I could increase the hole size again, but honestly 9 times out of 10 I'll be using a gas station pump so I want that to work best.
I received the 45* and 90* rubber angles and am playing around with ideas and then will start testing them at gas stations before cutting the top.
Does anyone have a junk soft top panel with tinted windows I could use for practice cutting and make sure it cuts how I think it will? TJ, LJ, or ripped is fine. I'll happily pay shipping.
Send me part #'s and I'll build it for a can and check against California nozzles.
Thank you! I'm curious what you find out!
- https://www.newton-equipment.com/aero-300-filler-cap-model-A36NS1.html
- https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/unleaded-insert
- https://www.fillernecksupply.com/gas-tank-fuel-filler-hose-transfer-elbow/
I'm considering that this may be a better product for my uses:
https://www.newton-equipment.com/Angled Neck_NewtonEquipment.pdf(With the hard walled angles of this neck I'm curious if I won't need a unleaded insert)
Ooohh. That's the ring that came from the UK. If you can get me dimensions I can dirty fab it to that hose. I think inner ring is all I'll need.