Higher horses, higher revs & even higher torque, a streetable LJ engine swap
- Thread starter toximus
- Start date
Another update from November 2022:
Custom intake is completed!
View attachment 526185
Parts list:
- Spectre Performance elbow (SPE-9785)
- Spectre Performance intake with MAF sensor pad (SPE-9718)
- Spectre Performance 4" Flex Boot (SPE-9775)
- 3/4" Hose Through Hull Fitting (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1226411545...pid=5337789113&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1)
- Vibrant Performance 0.750" I.D Silicone Vacuum Hose (2108)
- GM Performance filter (19302206)
- Outerwears 6" bottom diameter, 5-1/4 top diameter, and 9" tall (part # 20-1185-01).
The secret sauce is using a through hull fitting from a boat discharge port. I placed it between the MAF sensor and throttle body.
View attachment 526188
View attachment 526186
I then used a silicone hose to hook it up to the valve cover.
View attachment 526187
I'm not in love with the open air filter element and plan to remake it in a box with an OEM filter when I have more time. In the meantime, I put on a Outerwears water repellent prefilter and will be avoiding risky water crossings.
View attachment 526189
Still the best looking open air filter I’ve ever seen!
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OP
Thanks!
Post 721 is Metri-Pack and APEX 2.8 connectors. 738 has one Duetsch connector pictured that I'm using for turn signal lights. Duetsch is my connector of choice for any work I'm doing.
It's a 6.2L LS3 paired to a 6L80E transmission.
OP
Awesome. That's such a cute little mill...
Only 430hp at the crank. And just as much torque.
(so... what's that... like... 10hp at the wheels? lol)
OP
Superior Radiator with shroud and a SPAL brushless fan.
OP
The hex head bolts attaching the radiator are difficult to get a socket around with the new reservoirs on each side so I swapped out the bolts for ones with a torx head.
Before:
After:
Much easier to get to them now!
Before:
After:
Much easier to get to them now!
OP
In my previous build thread, I had ran 2 chunky cables from the battery to under the dash. I'm smarter now and learned the difference between peak and constant draw and realized that I can get by with much smaller power cables. So now I have a just single 4ga cable ran to power both fuse blocks. It's still more cable than I need to run those 2 blocks, but I might daisy chain it to supply power into the rear at some point for a tire inflator or a mini 12v cooler...but we'll see.
To link power to the 2nd fuse block I started by bending up some copper until I realized it'd make removing the top one impossible since I won't be able to access the nuts.
So I scrapped that and used 6ga wire:
Back under the dash:
If you missed my previous build thread, these 2 fuse blocks power my radios amps, heated seats, and aftermarket lights.
To link power to the 2nd fuse block I started by bending up some copper until I realized it'd make removing the top one impossible since I won't be able to access the nuts.
So I scrapped that and used 6ga wire:
Back under the dash:
If you missed my previous build thread, these 2 fuse blocks power my radios amps, heated seats, and aftermarket lights.
OP
From the battery I'm running a breaker which then powers those interior fuse blocks. This completely separates all of my "aftermarket" stuff (aside from the winch) from the essential wiring. So if I ever have a problem, I can just turn it all off with one switch.
Just quickly browsed this thread and this is quite awesome. Will have to get through the whole thing.
As the owner of a 6.2 and 6L80E in another application, did you go to a billet or some other aftermarket converter? These are know to crap out 80k-150k miles and grenade the entire transmission with it. I have yet to read to the point of what you used (new, takeout, etc).
Also I know I don’t know anyone here but Oshkosh airshow… put me down for one (besides that inconvenient roughly 3 week old at that time)
OP
My LS is a GM crate engine and the 6L80 is custom built from Jim at Zero Gravity since he has a lot of offroad experience with them. He recommended a Dynamic Converter. Dynamic Converter builds them for GM performance and also about 60% of trophy trucks and Ultra 4.
@Apparition you've got another Jeeper for your buddy to meet.
Your wiring looks good! FYI, I have had problems with those types of breakers under the hood in my stock 4.0, too much heat! One failed outright and the acted wonky and took a while to diagnose.
OP
First one came from eBay second one was Blue Sea. Mine were thermal based. Switched to ANL fuses.
OP
Interesting. I'm exclusively using Blue Sea Systems since they comply with marine regulations for engine bays. We'll have to see how they do.
OP
SPAL fan harness tidied up at the grill.
Using:
- Spal 30107125
- Spal SBL-YAZ-PT10
I tested powering it on and it's got a nice soft start.
Using:
- Spal 30107125
- Spal SBL-YAZ-PT10
I tested powering it on and it's got a nice soft start.
OP
OP
The transmission is plumbed!
I think I previously mentioned this, but off the transmission I used GM hardlines (92236244) because they have a tight bend on the other side to clear the front driveshaft.
I cut the ends off the hard line and adapted to AN flex lines with 1/2" compression fittings.
(ignore the bolts on the skid, those need to be corrected)
I think I previously mentioned this, but off the transmission I used GM hardlines (92236244) because they have a tight bend on the other side to clear the front driveshaft.
I cut the ends off the hard line and adapted to AN flex lines with 1/2" compression fittings.
(ignore the bolts on the skid, those need to be corrected)
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