OP
I can leave my heal in the same position and use either pedal. It uses the same muscle memory as stock.
Higher horses, higher revs & even higher torque, a streetable LJ engine swap
- Thread starter toximus
- Start date
I can leave my heal in the same position and use either pedal. It uses the same muscle memory as stock.
OP
OP
I started in on getting the shifters in place.
First I got the Atlas shifter fully mocked up and shifting smoothly. I used Advance Adapters shift linkages for a 03-06 TJ (303002U).
Next I wanted to test the Winters/Art Carr shifter with the 6L80 to make sure everything is going to work.
Here's the parts I used:
Here's the 6L80E transmission side bracket from Radesigns:
First I got the Atlas shifter fully mocked up and shifting smoothly. I used Advance Adapters shift linkages for a 03-06 TJ (303002U).
Next I wanted to test the Winters/Art Carr shifter with the 6L80 to make sure everything is going to work.
Here's the parts I used:
- Winters shifter 4L80E (187-1-9112-4013-1).
- Radesigns tap shifter kit for the Winters shifter and 6L80E (Control Kit, Cable bracket, and Resistor Harness) (I don't see this on their website anymore).
Here's the 6L80E transmission side bracket from Radesigns:
OP
I'm waiting on a few materials to finish up the shifters. So I started laying out the new wiring harness from RPM Extreme. I'm starting to realize that there's going to have to be some back and forth getting all of the wiring in, welding, painting, making new brackets, etc. So expect to see it going in and out multiple times.
Overall it seems that it's really well thought out. I'm very impressed with all of the OEM connections they have on this harness. Almost everything just connects right up. I will have to add a few of my own connections though.
Overall it seems that it's really well thought out. I'm very impressed with all of the OEM connections they have on this harness. Almost everything just connects right up. I will have to add a few of my own connections though.
OP
This connector on the main TJ harness normally goes to the 42RLE automatic transmission. Since I won't be using these wires, I used a blank plug from a manual transmission TJ.
OP
Making progress. (All of the wires up on the hood are EVAP related and will be cut once I have it running.)
I need to add heat shielding to some wires that hug the exhaust. Any suggestions of what to use?
I have an email in to RPM Extreme since the PWM signal wire for my SPAL fan seems to be missing. Also, I connected power and there seems to be a bug with the new GM OBD since plugging in a scanner powers on the OEM Jeep dash and then when I turn the key to the run position the GM OBD loses power.
I need to add heat shielding to some wires that hug the exhaust. Any suggestions of what to use?
I have an email in to RPM Extreme since the PWM signal wire for my SPAL fan seems to be missing. Also, I connected power and there seems to be a bug with the new GM OBD since plugging in a scanner powers on the OEM Jeep dash and then when I turn the key to the run position the GM OBD loses power.
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I used some stuff from DEI Engineering for my fuel lines, and I used some of the leftovers for some of my wiring. Not sure if this is exactly what I used, they have a lot of options.
https://www.designengineering.com/heat-sheath-aluminized-sleeving-0-5-x-36/
They have some black self vulcanizing tape that works pretty well to seal up the ends. Don't stretch it too tight when wrapping, I had one end that started to unwind after just seating for year, but I think I wrapped it too tight
https://www.designengineering.com/heat-sheath-aluminized-sleeving-0-5-x-36/
They have some black self vulcanizing tape that works pretty well to seal up the ends. Don't stretch it too tight when wrapping, I had one end that started to unwind after just seating for year, but I think I wrapped it too tight
OP
I just did it to keep any crud out and I needed to keep the shield on my fuel lines in place so they wouldn't slide around.
Now that I think about it I wonder if taping the ends is a bad idea, could keep the heat in instead of giving it a bit of airflow.
YouTuber I follow used this and held up to engine bay fire in drift car.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/wiring_shop/wire_loom/parts/573-203
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/wiring_shop/wire_loom/parts/573-203
OP
OP
I'm thinking something reflective like @Trevlaw posted will prevent heat from even entering the wiring.
I mostly use DEI products like shown above. When I am able I use the Fire Sleeve they sell. I de-pin plugs to get the wiring through, but when it proves too complicated I just use the split sleeve wrap…
For wire protection around the headers and exhaust, I used a bunch of this wire loom from Heat Shield Products. I think I picked it up from Amazon. The Hemi makes a crazy amount of heat, and this stuff has held up very well. I check it occasionally and have not seen any melting or burning.
A bunch of horsepower makes a bunch of heat, so it will be less of a concern with the LS.....
A bunch of horsepower makes a bunch of heat, so it will be less of a concern with the LS.....
OP
tbreaux
New Member
Regarding your skid to trans pan gap, do you think that gap is sufficient given the weight of the vehicle and the aluminum material? Curious because I have basically a similar gap for my 6L80 but with a 1/4" steel skid. I was guided to beef up that leading edge with additional support to prevent the skid flexing into the trans pan.
DEI says both can take 500°F of direct heat against the product. Rating them very similar as to not over/under sell one versus the other maybe…
The heat sheath has the thin aluminized outer with the single layer fiberglass inner…
The fire sleeve is a silicone outer with a somewhat more supple inner fiberglass layer…
I have zero complaints about either. I use both extensively. I even have a couple of places where I have the fire sleeve installed with the heat sheath wrapped around that. Probably overkill but fuel line heat soak shouldn’t ever be an issue I’ll deal with again…
OP
I think the gap is enough, but if it isn't it'll self clearance some if it makes contact — worst case I'll have to add a bigger spacer at the belly skid to increase the gap. The reason for making it out of heat treated aluminum and allowing it to flex by only supporting the font and rear is so that the skid will flex and return back to it's original shape and not permanently deform which would cause the skid to be pressed against the vibrating engine and wear a hole through the pans.