Well, sounds like you're in the same boat as the OP. Time to take the steering wheel pad off & see what's happening there.
Or just buy an air horn & keep it handy
Horn Switch Wiring
- Thread starter Equilibrium31
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Or just buy an air horn & keep it handy
I already did once but had no idea what I was looking for. I'll do it again tomorrow and put a multimeter on the horn switch.
The clock spring is just a ribbon wire that carries several wires - if you aren't getting any airbag codes that means the wires for the airbag are fine, but the ones for the horn may not be. The OP had a problem on the horn pad switch itself, and you may be in the same boat.
I'd start first by checking from the PDC to pin 1 of connector C1 (I think I put pics of it earlier in this thread). If that checks good then your issue is between C1 under the dash, through the clock spring, For that you'll have to pull the pad off & look at the connectors on the actual horn switch like the OP did.
I borrowed long leads from my mechanic and it checked out ok. Is there a way to meter the switch pad itself when I remove it?
Yeah, look on the first page of this thread, I pasted in the TS steps from the manual.
All of this was great info, I have the opposite problem. Both of my horns did not work so I replaced them, now the horn is stuck on. Everything seems fine in the airbag area and I did replace the clock system. Any thoughts? I can pull the fuse and replace it and hear the relay opening or closing as I remove and replace the fuse.
As far as what? General usage of a multi-meter, disassembling the steering column?
For step 6, how do I identify those two wires?
For step 7, do I just connect the leads to the screw posts on the switch pad?
Look at the photo @Axeman posted in post #20 of this thread. You should be checking for continuity between the pin in the white connector on the back of the pad & the ground wire coming out of the other side of the pad.
It’s the same set of wires for both steps. You put your leads across the two wires and you should get no continuity. When you you put your leads across the wires & press on the horn pad you should have good continuity (low single digits).
To save myself the trouble of replacing the clock spring (if that's what's bad) could I just disconnect the horn wires from the underside of the clock spring and wire them to a button on the dash? Would there be anything more complicated than that involved?
Yes, you could do that. You'd have to either pull the wire out of the backside of the connector or splice it into a leader going to whatever switch it is you want to use. Then you'd run the other side of the switch to ground somewhere.
C1 is your ticket according to the manual.
Nevermind. I figured it out.
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Hey so I’ve got a similar issue but opposite a bit. My horn pad itself has an issue. It thinks it’s being pressed when it’s not actually being pressed. I pulled it open and ran some lines of scotch tape inside so that the copper would stop making a constant connection to itself. It works and now only goes off when I press. But here’s the thing I want to do in case this happens again. I’d like to install a cutoff so that I have the option of killing the circuit if the pad goes bad again or my tape wears thin before I can get lucky and find a replacement pad. I’d also like to install a backup horn switch in the dash as well. Any thoughts on how to go about this. I’ve picked up the switches. One for killing the current circuit and a quick toggle horn specific switch for my open slots in the dash.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!