How do I clean the metallic shavings from my Dana 35 axle shaft & bearing?

[PXM]

2000 TJ 2.5 SE: Had a bad axle shaft & bearing that has left glitter all over. How should I properly clean this to keep further damage from occurring? Evidence of shavings in both tubes . Also, does the Dana 35 not have any type of magnate in it?

Thanks!

 

[Jerry Bransford]

That bearing wear on the shaft looks like it's a 4340 shaft with an insufficiently hardened outer surface layer instead of the correct 1541H shaft made to withstand the bearings riding directly on it without a race. If it were me I'd replace the shafts with 1541H shafts and install new outer bearings. Or at least the shaft has worn abnormally if it is the factory shaft as the ABS tone wheel might be indicating.

 

[Mrhp]

Looks like normal high mileage bearing failure causing axle damage.

 

[macleanflood]

I usually can get shrapnel, shavings and anything and everything out with brake cleaner.

If it's really bad and your rebuilding it completely then a pressure washer and a WD-40 soak after drying it out...I have an electric leaf blower and shop rags.

-Mac

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Looks like normal high mileage bearing failure causing axle damage.

This is an aftermarket Dana 35 4340 shaft showing similar damage which is why I guessed it was that and not a factory shaft. It even looks like the same brand as the OP's.

 

[Blackjack]

You do have a new shaft and bearings/seals for both sides I hope. Best way to clean is to pull both shafts and the carrier and flush with brake clean and swab the tubes with a wadded up rag and broom handle.

 

[PXM]

Here's a picture of the only markings I can find on the axle; it just may be the original. I had leaking axle shafts and replaced the seals & bearings (Yukon AK 1563 bearings) in Aug. '21, along with new diff fluid. I've been fishing shavings out of the tubes with a telescopic magnet for the past hour. I'm really hoping someone's going to tell me there's a better/easier way or that I'm being overzealous with trying to get everything out. I just purchased a new axle shaft (Alloy USA) & another Yukon AK 1563 bearings & seal kit. I'm hoping I didn't go wrong with this, probably should have asked questions first... story of my life!

 

[macleanflood]

View attachment 310129
Here's a picture of the only markings I can find on the axle; it just may be the original. I had leaking axle shafts and replaced the seals & bearings (Yukon AK 1563 bearings) in Aug. '21, along with new diff fluid. I've been fishing shavings out of the tubes with a telescopic magnet for the past hour. I'm really hoping someone's going to tell me there's a better/easier way or that I'm being overzealous with trying to get everything out. I just purchased a new axle shaft (Alloy USA) & another Yukon AK 1563 bearings & seal kit. I'm hoping I didn't go wrong with this, probably should have asked questions first... story of my life!

I'd suggest a super 35 kit...but if you read all my posts I can't find an e-locker anywhere.

-Mac

 

[PXM]

You do have a new shaft and bearings/seals for both sides I hope. Best way to clean is to pull both shafts and the carrier and flush with brake clean and swab the tubes with a wadded up rag and broom handle.

I only bought the one side but I'm not opposed to buying another as I don't want to have to do this again in 6 months. Can't say that I've got any experience pulling a carrier. Is this something that I can easily get in over my head on?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I just purchased a new axle shaft (Alloy USA) & another Yukon AK 1563 bearings & seal kit. I'm hoping I didn't go wrong with this, probably should have asked questions first...

That webpage doesn't indicate if that shaft is the stock factory carbon steel shaft or something else like 4340 or 1541H. I'd ask them before they get shipped. You don't want 4340.

The one in your photo does not look like the factory shaft.

 

[jjvw]

View attachment 310129
Here's a picture of the only markings I can find on the axle; it just may be the original....

That looks like a stock axle shaft.

As far as cleaning goes, flush and wipe everything down with brake cleaner. The magnet on the fill plug will catch the rest. If you are still concerned, stick a couple neodymium magnets inside the diff cover away from the ring gear.

 

[PXM]

That webpage doesn't indicate if that shaft is the stock factory carbon steel shaft or something else like 4340 or 1541H. I'd ask them before they get shipped. You don't want 4340.

The one in your photo does not look like the factory shaft.

I actually bought it here, the description says its "The Alloy USA rear axle shaft Ride Side 4140 Chromoly kit". I remembered reading something about staying away from the 4340's. I never considered bearing & shaft compatibility with the Yukon's & the previous axle. The driver's side seems to fine so far.

 

[Mrhp]

Looks like a stock shaft to me Jerry

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I actually bought it here, the description says its "The Alloy USA rear axle shaft Ride Side 4140 Chromoly kit". I remembered reading something about staying away from the 4340's. I never considered bearing & shaft compatibility with the Yukon's & the previous axle. The driver's side seems to fine so far.

Yep, 4140 is an alloy, it's the wrong type of shaft for a Dana 35 and why it wore like it did. 4140 is less hard than 4340 is. You want either the factory carbon steel shafts or those made with 1541H steel, which is stronger, for your Dana 35.

 

[PXM]

Yep, 4140 is an alloy, it's the wrong type of shaft for a Dana 35 and why it wore like it did. 4140 is less hard than 4340 is. You want either the factory carbon steel shafts or those made with 1541H shafts, which is stronger, for your Dana 35.

Crap!
Just to clarify, the picture of the axle with the wear is the stock axle that was ran with new Yukon bearing since 8/21. I just purchased the Alloy 4140 on Saturday as a replacement and haven't installed it yet. Are you saying not to use the 4140, as well as the 4340, in a Dana 35 & to only use a 1541H as a replacement? So much to learn....

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Are you saying not to use the 4140, as well as the 4340, in a Dana 35 & to only use a 1541H as a replacement? So much to learn....

Yes or the factory stock carbon steel shaft. The problem with alloy shafts made with 4340, 4140, etc. is they don't surface harden them enough to withstand raceless bearings riding directly on them like is done with factory carbon steel and 1541H shafts.

4340/4140 etc. alloy shaft bearings have inner races on them so the bearings don't ride directly on the shaft surface like happens in a Dana 35 axle. That is why 4340/4140/etc. alloy shafts like a Dana 44 axle uses don't need as much surface hardening and why they wear prematurely in a Dana 35 since its outer wheel bearings ride directly on the shaft.

 

[Blackjack]

I only bought the one side but I'm not opposed to buying another as I don't want to have to do this again in 6 months. Can't say that I've got any experience pulling a carrier. Is this something that I can easily get in over my head on?

It is not difficult but you do need to keep close attention to how all the parts are oriented. You will need a torque wrench and something to help pry the carrier out of the housing and a mallet/block of wood to install the carrier. The bearing caps should have letter markings on them to indicate which side they go and in which direction. If you do not see them mark the caps so you can put them back the same way. You will need to remove the bearing caps and then work the carrier out of the housing. The Dana 35 has shims on the outside of the bearings so you will need to keep track of which side they are on along with the bearing races. Once you do that you can just spray brake clean in the axle tube from the wheel end and ram a rag down the tube toward the center of the housing. Once you have everything clean you can install the carrier along with the shims. The trick is to be patient, keep everything square to itself and gently tap it all together as a unit. If anything feels like it is not moving or you get the carrier in further than the shims, pull everything back and try again. Once the carrier is seated install the bearing caps with some Loctite on the bolts and torque them to 80 ft lbs.

If you think you do not have the tools or feel that is out of your comfort zone and do not want to pull the carrier you can spray the brake clean through the splines on the side gear and attach a rag to the broom handle torch style and drag the stuff out of the tube.

 

[PXM]

I'd suggest a super 35 kit...but if you read all my posts I can't find an e-locker anywhere.

-Mac

I would like to do this when I have the funds!

It is not difficult but you do need to keep close attention to how all the parts are oriented. You will need a torque wrench and something to help pry the carrier out of the housing and a mallet/block of wood to install the carrier. The bearing caps should have letter markings on them to indicate which side they go and in which direction. If you do not see them mark the caps so you can put them back the same way. You will need to remove the bearing caps and then work the carrier out of the housing. The Dana 35 has shims on the outside of the bearings so you will need to keep track of which side they are on along with the bearing races. Once you do that you can just spray brake clean in the axle tube from the wheel end and ram a rag down the tube toward the center of the housing. Once you have everything clean you can install the carrier along with the shims. The trick is to be patient, keep everything square to itself and gently tap it all together as a unit. If anything feels like it is not moving or you get the carrier in further than the shims, pull everything back and try again. Once the carrier is seated install the bearing caps with some Loctite on the bolts and torque them to 80 ft lbs.

If you think you do not have the tools or feel that is out of your comfort zone and do not want to pull the carrier you can spray the brake clean through the splines on the side gear and attach a rag to the broom handle torch style and drag the stuff out of the tube.

Thanks for the detailed response, sounds doable!