How durable are the factory TJ Rubicon lockers?

I think 35s. But it took one good hop while locked up, and pop. I swapped out his locker in a hotel parking lot. Did two gear sets that trip I think, another buddy sheared a Dana 44 pinion off going up Potato Salad hill and rolled back down. He was definitely on 37s.

Those are just part of the reason I have never, and will never recommend, 37s on a Dana 44 or less.
 
... Kind of funny... because still never got a definitive answer from anyone. Other than; no matter which locker I go with it'll eventually break as well. Like all things, when abused or used in a manner of extreme use... they'll break or wear prematurely. Thanks Captain Obvious. ;)

.... Either way, I decided to go with an Eaton E-Locker. No need to put any extra strain on running gear when on hard pack by saving $300 on the locker.
I specifically gave you good locker recommendations. You just didn't like it when I was the first one to opine that your axles, especially the front, weren't up to 37's.

... For our trails a Detroit Locker is a great choice, so is the E-Locker but I don't believe the Rubicon's front Dana 44 is up to 37's at all and the rear is barely/kinda/sorta up to them with alloy shafts but the lockers? I don't believe they are.
 
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What made you go with the elocker over an ARB?
I'm familiar with it...
I like not having air lines to worry about or a compressor (when I already have a Yorx OBA setup)
Knowing if it's not engaging... it should be an electrical problem, and not electrical, compressor, or air line related.

Had a couple other buddies with ARB, and small issues on the trail plagued them. From blown fuses to air line fittings to you name it. Lots of working parts BEFORE you get to the diff housing and the workings of the actual locker.
 
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It's not directly the tire size. It's that the LSD in them fails when worked too hard and takes the locker with it. Lock up the rear every time you go offroad and it should last. Obviously, I wouldn't suggest installing an OEM Rubi locker, but if I already had one (which I do in one of my Jeeps) I'd keep it.

We're already on page 3 of this thread so I assume that's already been said.
Correct... that's what I read, or understood

However, mine have both failed just randomly ON the road. Yet, I don't always lock them when on the trail either.
 
I specifically gave you goodlocker recommendations. You just didn't like it when I was the first one to say your axles, especially the front, weren't up to 37's.

... For our trails a Detroit Locker is a great choice, so is the E-Locker but I don't believe the Rubicon's front Dana 44 is up to 37's at all and the rear is barely/kinda/sorta up to them with alloy shafts but the lockers? I don't believe they are.

Actually... I read that as, "for our trails". Which, I'm not sure which trails are ours, yours or there's. ;)
... it had nothing to do with 'not liking' your comments about 37s in that original post. Again, let's not make this something it wasn't.

My Jeep is off-road mostly in Moab and CO. Occasionally here in SoCal, AZ and parts of NV. So your comment was confusing to me.

I was hoping to hear which is better for my rig, or as asked... to aid in not tearing up the running gear on hard pack surfaces (like wheel hop when turning a tight radius on hard packed surfaces). Because my thought was the Detroit locker would cause more issues down the road, since I cannot "unlock" it for on-road use.
 
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I think 35s. But it took one good hop while locked up, and pop. I swapped out his locker in a hotel parking lot. Did two gear sets that trip I think, another buddy sheared a Dana 44 pinion off going up Potato Salad hill and rolled back down. He was definitely on 37s.

Those are just part of the reason I have never, and will never recommend, 37s on a Dana 44 or less.
In JV, with a manual, one little hop locked up takes them out, repeatedly.
 
Correct... that's what I read, or understood

However, mine have both failed just randomly ON the road. Yet, I don't always lock them when on the trail either.
Randomly on the road almost always follows some brisk driving around turns with it unlocked. The high traction surface blows up the LSD and the small gears that make it LSD. The pieces go through the locker and ruin it further. It's already ruinted, the pieces just ruin the rest of it.
 
So, I am JK illiterate. I have a friend who is new to wheeling meeting us in Moab. He has a Rubicon rear axle under it. Do they have the same issues as the TJ unit?
 
So, I am JK illiterate. I have a friend who is new to wheeling meeting us in Moab. He has a Rubicon rear axle under it. Do they have the same issues as the TJ unit?
The JK's lockers have a completely different design and operate electrically. Pretty sure they're stronger too. Other than that I can't even spell JK.
 
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Anyone have any idea how durable the factory TJ Rubicon lockers are?

If mine ever go on me I'll replace them with Eaton e-Lockers, but in the meantime I'm curious what I can expect from my factory lockers? Are they notoriously weak as shit, or do they actually have some strength and durability to them?

Just curious if anyone knows from experience / research.
Did I miss the thread where you bought a new Jeep?
 
Yes, he did. But that was very recently. I’m confused on what you’re asking. Where in this thread did I post that I bought a new Jeep?
😂 geez! Right over my head! Thought that read “That thread”......referring to your Jeep build not this thread. Wow! Don’t I feel like an idiot. Enjoy this for your laughing pleasure👍🏻
 
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😂 geez! Right over my head! Thought that read “That thread”......referring to your Jeep build not this thread. Wow! Don’t I feel like an idiot. Enjoy this for your laughing pleasure👍🏻

Haha, okay, because you had me thoroughly confused there for a moment!
 
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Randomly on the road almost always follows some brisk driving around turns with it unlocked. The high traction surface blows up the LSD and the small gears that make it LSD. The pieces go through the locker and ruin it further. It's already ruinted, the pieces just ruin the rest of it.
Okay... with my reading, and trying to comprehend the main reasoning behind them doing as they do, along with your comment which coincides with all I've found.... wouldn't a front Rubi locker in the rear last longer, and be without the same issue (since it's missing any limited slip "gears")??

I know it's not necessarily stronger, but I'm not breaking the locker itself.

I'd think a front rubi Dana 44 locker, would last longer and be the ticket for those looking to stay stock and not have to worry about the LSD of a rear (since it's seemingly the weak link unless selectively locked)

Here's a couple pictures of the mess that came out of the rear, June of 2017.

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Y'all have me nervous about my planned 4 week trip out west. I am changing gears in the near future. Is there anything to look for in the rear locker? Does the the LSD show any signs visually or functionally before they fail? How about a cable operated OX locker?
 
Y'all have me nervous about my planned 4 week trip out west. I am changing gears in the near future. Is there anything to look for in the rear locker? Does the the LSD show any signs visually or functionally before they fail? How about a cable operated OX locker?
If you're not hammering your drivetrain or running 37" or larger tires you have nothing to worry about. My TJ is running tough enough rock crawling trails on its 35" tires to need both its Rubicon air lockers engaged most of the time with no issues.

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............ Is there anything to look for in the rear locker? Does the the LSD show any signs visually or functionally before they fail? .............
It seems, that there's nothing to look for unless you tear it down to look for any signs of wear. I've read about guys finding bits and pieces in the oil, and it was parts of the diaphragm or plate.

Someone with adequate tires, and yet still having an issue just recently... On another "Jeepforum";
https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f126/iso-Dana 44-locker-4331681/.... it's more common than you'd think. And it's always something to be concerned about (in my opinion).

In the last few days, I've been reading more and more about stock Rubi lockers giving up. Fronts too... just not as often. With the rear, most are simply pulling them and going to a Detroit or Selectable.

I never noticed any visual signs of issue, but I'm not often looking. However, I bought my LJ with missing ring gear teeth (it drove fine, but had a slight whine at speed). When I noticed the missing teeth during inspection, we re-geared from 4:88s to 5:13s. At that time, there was no physical signs that we should have replaced the locker. It gave up 1000-1500 miles later. No warning, not in the dirt, not locked up... just a horrible bind and pop as it mulches the internal LSD gear set (apparently).
 
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