How hard is it to replace the inner axle seals on Rubicon?

CV04TJR

CV04TJR

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Last weekend I replaced my front axle u-joints on my 2004 Rubicon. I reinstalled the axles with care but I must have damaged the passenger side seal because I now have a bad leak. I am a little intimidated to take my diff apart. I have read through the how to section thread but have a few questions.
1. How hard is it to get the carrier in and out?
2. I have seen it mentioned that the locker actuator has to be held with a golf tee on a string when reinstalling the carrier, does anyone have pictures?
3. What are the best seals to use?
4. What is the best way to drive the seal?

Any other tips to make the job easier would be appreciated. Thanks
 
it can be intimidating for sure if you never messed with a diff b4.

the carrier can be spun out if it's tight. you get a wrench onto 1 of the ring bolts and get it to hold against the housing while you turn the pinion a little, and it'll pop it loose.
you'll need a long rod to knock out the old seals. a seal driver set is pretty cheap from harbor freight or you could try a big ass socket too.
the actuator gets held open with a toothpick, and once the carrier is replaced the toothpick is pulled with the string.
 
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I just did this last week. I am not an experienced mechanic but I have been wrenching on TJ’s for 2 years, to give you an idea of where I am. I did the whole job solo in a few hours.

The carrier came out easy. Getting it back in was a bit tricky but it went. I did the the passenger shim last.

The actuator golf tee trick worked great. @Jerry Bransford has a link with photos. We will help you find that link.

I can’t comment on best seals. I used the Yukon YMSC1003 and bought this press so the job was super easy.

Inner Axle Side Seal Installation... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082SPPHB7/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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ncfitton said:
I just did this last week. I am not an experienced mechanic but I have been wrenching on TJ’s for 2 years, to give you an idea of where I am. I did the whole job solo in a few hours.

The carrier came out easy. Getting it back in was a bit tricky but it went. I did the the passenger shim last.

The actuator golf tee trick worked great. @Jerry Bransford has a link with photos. We will help you find that link.

I can’t comment on best seals. I used the Yukon YMSC1003 and bought this press so the job was super easy.

Inner Axle Side Seal Installation... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082SPPHB7/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Click to expand...
that seal installer makes life much easier. When I did mine, that tool was 120.00.
 
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Thanks for the help everyone. The locker actuator was the part that I wasn't understanding and the pictures and video made it clear.
I will get the tool and seals order and try to fix the leak next weekend.
 
I would leave it as-is for a while and see if it continues to leak, it’s possible what you are seeing is just residual oil that leaked into the axle tubes while you had the shafts out and has now migrated to the tube ends.
 
I just did this recently. Easy.
  1. The carrier is very heavy and fits very tightly. It’s not easy to get in and out but can be done by hand.
  2. Yes, there is a small spring loaded plunger that must be held outwards when reinstalling the carrier. It is in the rear upper driver’s side of the differential housing. You cannot reach it when installing the carrier. The trick is to break a toothpick or similar item to length, tie a string around it, and place it under the flanged head of the plunger so that it holds it all the way out. After the bearing caps on the carrier are tightened down, pull the string to release the plunger.
  3. Spicer seals
  4. I used a Tekton 36mm 1/2” drive socket and it was the perfect size for cleaning the axle tube, hammering out the old seals, and driving in the new seals without damaging them. I used many long extensions on the 36mm and a hammer to drive the seals in. Be sure to grease the outside and inside edge of the seal when reinstalling. Hammer in one side, then pass the extensions through the seal, attach the 36mm, and drive the other side.

Bonus tips:
You will need a 13mm 12pt socket for the hub bolts.
Don’t let your calipers hang by the brake lines.
Use a breaker bar and cheater bar to loosen the axle nut while a friend holds the brakes tight.
Unbolt the driver’s side tie rod end so you have room to work. Torque it back to spec.
Use a torque wrench to tighten the bearing caps, hub bolts, and axle nuts to spec.
The FSM has all torque specs and can be found here on the forum.
Be SURE to put the shims back on the sides they were in. If you do not trust yourself, mark them when you remove them.
Remove the carrier slowly and carefully. Do not drop it, do not let the shims bounce out and get them mixed up.
Clean everything extremely well, especially all mating surfaces.
You can buy axle guides, which are plastic rings that keep the shaft centered as you slide it into the seal. I did not use these. I slowly and carefully slid mine in with no damage to the seal.
 
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