How long after cat replacement before all codes are gone?

L

Long Rider

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dallas
I replaced the precats with MagnaFlow precats (Part number ‎50899) along with NTK 23159 Oxygen Sensor, NTK 23018 Oxygen Sensor, NTK 23158 Oxygen Sensor and NTK 23160 Oxygen Sensor, all placed in their appropriate places back in October. My check engine light immediately when out and she runs well.

I was told that I need to drive it for a while before getting it smogged here in Texas. I don't know how many miles I've driven it. Probably around 300 miles in my 24 mile commute to work. I also drove it on a 250 mile round trip once.

The check engine light never returned and she still runs well. She has about 110K miles.

I took it in and the stealership said there was some type of code that still exists that keeps them from passing smog.

What am I missing?
How many miles should I drive before I return it for interrogation?
 
What code is in the computer? You can generate all codes present by doing nothing more than turning the ignition switch on-off-on three times within 5 seconds and then leaving it in the on position after the third cycle. Wait. Once the diagnostic routine is finished it will display all codes in the odometer display.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
What code is in the computer? You can generate all codes present by doing nothing more than turning the ignition switch on-off-on three times within 5 seconds and then leaving it in the on position after the third cycle. Wait. Once the diagnostic routine is finished it will display all codes in the odometer display.
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it says "done", so I guess it means there are no codes.
I freaking HATE dealerships. They were wanting 75 bucks for wiper blades, when I told them know, they told me I it threw a code and would not pass inspection.
 
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Long Rider said:
it says "done", so I guess it means there are no codes.
I freaking HATE dealerships. They were wanting 75 bucks for wiper blades, when I told them know, they told me I it threw a code and would not pass inspecti
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Yep Done means no codes so it's clear your dealer was trying to jack you up.
 
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Once you reset the computer you have to reset all the status monitors for emissions which has nothing to do with codes, it means you fail. If you have a good code reader you can check them, it takes several cold starts and other random bull to pass all the monitors. There was a great resource that had a detailed list of how to pass them all that Blaine posted but the link is dead. Overall you can't just reset and go, you have to drive the Jeep for awhile for them all to reset.
 
Our local ford dealer was trying to diagnose a low fuel pressure issue on my 7.3 diesel van- they installed an injection control module and that did not fix it- when i confronted them for parts changing they said it “needed one any way”.

Seriously? Oh it just needed it like an oil change? 968.00 dollars.

I left , with all my future business, and also took the van to a good ol boy in the county after they had it for 6 weeks - he walked up and said “the fuel pick line is deteriorated in the tank, it will be ready tomorrow.”

It was.

It is sad that one of the most loved things in the american consciousness- the automobile- is sold through so many unscrupulous dealerships. And they have been doing this junk so long they feel they have to continue to in self defense because the public tries to get even ( bananas in the trade ins rear differential, etc).
 
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Long Rider said:
I replaced the precats with MagnaFlow precats (Part number ‎50899) along with NTK 23159 Oxygen Sensor, NTK 23018 Oxygen Sensor, NTK 23158 Oxygen Sensor and NTK 23160 Oxygen Sensor, all placed in their appropriate places back in October. My check engine light immediately when out and she runs well.

I was told that I need to drive it for a while before getting it smogged here in Texas. I don't know how many miles I've driven it. Probably around 300 miles in my 24 mile commute to work. I also drove it on a 250 mile round trip once.

The check engine light never returned and she still runs well. She has about 110K miles.

I took it in and the stealership said there was some type of code that still exists that keeps them from passing smog.

What am I missing?
How many miles should I drive before I return it for interrogation?
Click to expand...
The codes remain until you
clear them.
 
AndyG said:
It is sad that one of the most loved things in the american consciousness- the automobile- is sold through so many unscrupulous dealerships.
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What’s crazy is that many states have laws that prohibit sales without the dealer, it’s a total racket. Want to buy a Tesla (as one example)? You’re either leaving Michigan/Arizona/Etc or going to Native American lands.
 
rasband said:
What’s crazy is that many states have laws that prohibit sales without the dealer, it’s a total racket. Want to buy a Tesla (as one example)? You’re either leaving Michigan/Arizona/Etc or going to Native American lands.
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Politicians get bought.
 
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pagrey said:
Once you reset the computer you have to reset all the status monitors for emissions which has nothing to do with codes, it means you fail. If you have a good code reader you can check them, it takes several cold starts and other random bull to pass all the monitors. There was a great resource that had a detailed list of how to pass them all that Blaine posted but the link is dead. Overall you can't just reset and go, you have to drive the Jeep for awhile for them all to reset.
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This is the way ^^^ If you get a bluetooth OBD dongle and an app to connect to a phone, it will show when the emissions BS is gtg
rasband said:
What’s crazy is that many states have laws that prohibit sales without the dealer, it’s a total racket. Want to buy a Tesla (as one example)? You’re either leaving Michigan/Arizona/Etc or going to Native American lands.
Click to expand...

"If two trains meet on the same track, neither shall proceed until the other has passed."​

-Kansas "Blue Law"
Who's on first?
At least it wasn't directed directly at direction!
Some laws are dumb. Some laws are money grabs. Seemingly and unfortunately, most new laws these days cover both these areas all too well (IMO, of course)
 
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Long Rider said:
How do I do that?
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Get a obd scanner and hit erase, it plugs in to the tapered black port under the dash, 20-30 bucks at most and good to have. Most parts stores will do it for you.
 
Keep in mind that once you clear your code, this will reset all your I/M monitors. Several drive cycles will be required and certain parameters must be met before all tests are run. At that point once all the I/M monitors have run and passed, then you can go to inspection.
 
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If you receive done in the odo, all the codes are cleared.

You have to complete the drive cycles.

Try this:
After turning ignition key to the ON position without cranking the engine, the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) should remain illuminated solid. If the MIL flashes for 10 seconds approximately 15 seconds after turning the key to the ON position (without cranking the engine) and then returns to solid illumination, the vehicle is not ready for I/M testing.

Also, has your 05 had the recall done for the emission monitors?
 
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You don't have to get an ODBII scanner to clear the codes, just pull the battery cable for a bit (maybe 15 minutes). When you re-attach them you'll still have to do the drive cycles everyone above mentions, but in the case you don't want to get an ODBII scanner right now it's another option (though I agree, especially with a jeep, they are handy to have around).
 
pagrey said:
Probably don't want to do this. I guess @AndyG is distracted or something but like @williambmac says resetting the computer will only make it take longer. @rasband also has good suggestion about just disconnecting the battery but I'd save that trick for another day.
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I may have missed something.

Fill out the proper application and we will review it at the next meeting.
 
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