How many of you have been forced to run wheel spacers with 35x12.50R15 tires? Am I?

WHBNM

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Upon cycling the front suspension I find significant interference on driver side at full bump full lock turning both ways. Passenger side is very close but no contact. Full bump on both sides is no problem.

- axle is centered at ride height (1/4") to driver
- 15x8 wheels with 3.75" bs
- tires are Maxxis Razr MT and are slightly wider than some 35 12.50s but not much on the 8" wide wheels
-Currie bump stops
Adding washers to the steering stops helped but not enough.
Is this common? From what I can find most don't have this problem. Trying to get dialed in before Moab! Thanks.
 
I have and I will never again. It’s cheaper than a new set of wheels. Just make sure you loctite and torque everything. I had some studs break and a tire just about come off years ago because of too much torque on the nuts i assume. I just know I would go with the right backspacing on a set of wheels. Which I have done since.
 
Yeah, not ideal and makes me sad because the wheels are new and at 3.75" backspacing I thought I was doing right.
 
I bought back 1/4 - 3/8" by shifting the axle to the driver's side getting me to what I believe is perfectly centered. At full stuff with two thick washers in driver's steering stop I am up against the driver's side antirock arm and upper heim of the link. I think it would clear the link if I move it to the last hole (rearward) but would still contact the antirock arm pretty significantly.
I don't want to run the washers but without them its too much and tire hits the steering box bolts in the frame.
 
Where exactly is the rub? What happens at trail pressure?

At street pressure, my 35" MTRs rub the upper spring seat and the Swayloc. At 8psi, they only rub the Swayloc. Currie bumps with no extension. No steering stop extension.
 
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Here where I am at street pressure. Hitting upper joint of antirock link and the a-rock arm. This is in the middle hole. Two washers in steering stop (which I'd love to ditch). Looks like an inch or so of bump extension would alleviate it as well.
20210413_181907.jpg
 
Here where I am at street pressure. Hitting upper joint of antirock link and the a-rock arm. This is in the middle hole. Two washers in steering stop (which I'd love to ditch). Looks like an inch or so of bump extension would alleviate it as well. View attachment 243594
I would probably call that a non issue.
 
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The other thing your can try is shorting the AR links. Hang the axle off the shocks and make sure the AR arm and link still has a bend in it. That will move the bolt lower on the sidewall where there is a bit more space.
 
I would probably call that a non issue.
Non issue due to fact that with the spring in I wouldn't reach that point? I can't spin the tire by hand at full bump/full lock in that position.
 
The other thing your can try is shorting the AR links. Hang the axle off the shocks and make sure the AR arm and link still has a bend in it. That will move the bolt lower on the sidewall where there is a bit more space.
10-4. So you're thinking don't bother with the spidertrax spacers that are on their way that I had hoped to return.
 
10-4. So you're thinking don't bother with the spidertrax spacers that are on their way that I had hoped to return.
Mine is running 3.75" BS. The less there is, the more stress is put on the ball joints and the more the scrub radius is messed up. A little bit of rub isn't a big deal.
 
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I'm going to put the link in the loosest arock hole an see how much contact there is next. Thinking I can have in the front hole for road trips and around town. Thank you jj.
 
Looking at my steering stops. I have 2 thick washers in the driver's side to limit contact upon turning full passenger. There are none in the passenger stop and turning to full lock the wheel stops before the stops make contact. Could my pitman arm be off a couple of teeth and my jeep turns too far to the right? Steering stop bolts are the same length.