How much should I plan to spend on stretching my TJ?

LakeBeard

TJ Enthusiast
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Jun 25, 2019
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La Habra, Ca
I'm not ready yet, just trying to get my ducks in a row. Currently stock wheel base w/ HP 60 in rear and HP 44 up front w/ 37" tall tires. I have the GR tank that allows a small stretch, but probably not enough.
 
Start by making a list of what needs to change for the stretch. How are you going to go about it?
 
fuel cell inside? How much stretch at the front vs the rear? Full hydro or ram assist? Coil overs?

I'd like to keep the tank out of the tub, ram assist, I'll probably pass on the coil overs as I'm sure I wont have the funds. Not real sure about how much upfront VS rear. I was under the impression that the rear was easier / cheaper so I was going to start there, hoping for about 6-8 inches. Im out of my league here, so trying to figure out how much I'm missing before actually trying to plan it out.
 
Start by making a list of what needs to change for the stretch. How are you going to go about it?

I really don't know, I'm trying to figure that out, For sure drive shaft and links, new GR tank, other than that I'm lost.
 
I'd like to keep the tank out of the tub, ram assist, I'll probably pass on the coil overs as I'm sure I wont have the funds. Not real sure about how much upfront VS rear. I was under the impression that the rear was easier / cheaper so I was going to start there, hoping for about 6-8 inches. Im out of my league here, so trying to figure out how much I'm missing before actually trying to plan it out.

A reasonable front stretch without moving the steering gear will get about 1.75" depending on where the axle starts. The rear starts at about 4" with the factory volume stretch tanks. Reduce the volume or eliminate the underside tank and more can be achieved depending on how much you are willing to chop up the tub.
 
I really don't know, I'm trying to figure that out, For sure drive shaft and links, new GR tank, other than that I'm lost.

How are you going to address the suspension and upper spring seats? Will you lengthen the arms and notch the coils into the frame arch? Will you do a back half and rebuilt everything? Or will you move the entire frame arch and suspension backwards as a complete unit?

How will you deal with the rear most body mounts?
 
How are you going to address the suspension and upper spring seats? Will you lengthen the arms and notch the coils into the frame arch? Will you do a back half and rebuilt everything? Or will you move the entire frame arch and suspension backwards as a complete unit?

How will you deal with the rear most body mounts?
Great questions, I have no Idea. These are all things I didn't know I needed to consider.
 
Great questions, I have no Idea. These are all things I didn't know I needed to consider.

Step one is to decide on a wheelbase appropriate for the tire size and belly height. Then you work out how to achieve that.
 
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I'm not ready yet, just trying to get my ducks in a row. Currently stock wheel base w/ HP 60 in rear and HP 44 up front w/ 37" tall tires. I have the GR tank that allows a small stretch, but probably not enough.

As already said, you really need to decide how much stretch, without that you are flailing in the dark.

I have been looking at this recently and have reached the conclusoon that about 2" front can be achieved without needing to relocate the steering box. You already have a swapped axle up front so no idea what has been done re track bar and steering, that may make it easier or harder. I have read (GenRight website I believe) that up to 3" is possible in the rear without needing to relocate shocks, but that is with a stock 44, no idea what changes you have already made to accomodate your 60. What suspension set up do you have currently?
 
.... I have read (GenRight website I believe) that up to 3" is possible in the rear without needing to relocate shocks, but that is with a stock 44, no idea what changes you have already made to accomodate your 60. What suspension set up do you have currently?

No mention of the coils going into an S shape and the bumps more lining up the further back the axle is pushed?

All of that ignores what to do about the rear control arms and track bar. And how one very good option sets in motion a lot of changes to how the GR tank is mounted.
 
No mention of the coils going into an S shape and the bumps more lining up the further back the axle is pushed?

All of that ignores what to do about the rear control arms and track bar. And how one very good option sets in motion a lot of changes to how the GR tank is mounted.

I agree much detail and many knock on impacts, in part why I asked what his current suspension set up is. My understanding is many in this territory head towards triangulated 4 link. For me the limiting factor is the inability in the UK to cut the frame and therefore outboarding shocks is out, hence why the limit on current shock position is front of mind.

I guess the direct answer to the actual question is, 'a lot'.
 
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I agree much detail and many knock on impacts, in part why I asked what his current suspension set up is. My understanding is many in this territory head towards triangulated 4 link. For me the limiting factor is the inability in the UK to cut the frame and therefore outboarding shocks is out, hence why the limit on current shock position is front of mind.

I guess the direct answer to the actual question is, 'a lot'.

The way many stretch the rear using a GR or similar tank is full of hack short cuts that serve to accomplish a stretch for the sake of a stretch at the expense of the total unified system working together as well as it could.
 
The way many stretch the rear using a GR or similar tank is full of hack short cuts that serve to accomplish a stretch for the sake of a stretch at the expense of the total unified system working together as well as it could.

that's exactly what I'm trying to avoid
 
it's a
As already said, you really need to decide how much stretch, without that you are flailing in the dark.

I have been looking at this recently and have reached the conclusoon that about 2" front can be achieved without needing to relocate the steering box. You already have a swapped axle up front so no idea what has been done re track bar and steering, that may make it easier or harder. I have read (GenRight website I believe) that up to 3" is possible in the rear without needing to relocate shocks, but that is with a stock 44, no idea what changes you have already made to accomodate your 60. What suspension set up do you have currently?

it's all stock set up, axels are bolt in from Currie.