How thick are your rock sliders?
- Thread starter Rubicon88
- Start date
Darkwing327
TJ Enthusiast
3/16" Smittybuilt XRC. Tub mounted, no step. NO complaints whatsoever. Same thickness as the Warns but $200 cheaper here in Canada. Great hardware and beautiful fit with zero gap between tub and guard. Well finished...been on a year and no sign of finish coming off, even underneath, even after a few hundred miles of offroading. No big rocks or serious tests on them yet, so can't comment in that regard, but am confident they are stout.
Oh, on another note, best thing I ever did was remove the factory running boards as the only thing they seemed to be useful for was getting your pants dirty every time you got in or out.
Oh, on another note, best thing I ever did was remove the factory running boards as the only thing they seemed to be useful for was getting your pants dirty every time you got in or out.
Vtx531
TJ Addict
I had 3/16” body mounted that I made. They were plenty strong. Big complaint is that when I decided to eventually remove them, the body was rusty underneath and I had bolt holes in the side of my tub that I no longer needed. I used rubber gasket material but it didn’t matter.
So I think being in PA, I would avoid this if your Jeep sees any salted roads.
You have a Rubicon that already has sliders though?
So I think being in PA, I would avoid this if your Jeep sees any salted roads.
You have a Rubicon that already has sliders though?
Darkwing327
TJ Enthusiast
This was a concern of mine as well even though we don't really have rust problems here. I didn't put anything in between on the install, but plan on removing one or both sides after a month or so of winter driving to have a look. Then may Fluid film or Cavity wax the surfaces. We don't get salt on the roads here, but calcium chloride spray (I think that's what it is). Doesn't seem to cause steel rust, but rather corrodes/oxidizes aluminum. Also is a bitch as it creates galvanic action between dissimilar materials so our aluminum wheels literally get welded to the drums and rotors. Had a Tahoe that blew a tire on a backroad and there was no way in hell we could get that rim off, so eventually just loosened the lug nuts and drove forward while turning till it broke itself loose. Sacrificed the tire, but we were a long way from a main road, so not much else to do. I now grease the face of the drum/rotor when doing wheel swaps, along with never seize on the studs.
My wife told me quite a few times that I need running boards on my TJ. Luckily I got away with avoiding her advice. (Luckily, as in, still married). This past summer we bought her a JK. Part of the deal was for the dealer to install the factory running boards because she thinks she needs them AND the only rust on that Jeep was where the original running boards bolted on. I know why the original owner took them off, the wife will learn the hard way. And yes I sanded and repainted all those spots.
It really isn't that simple but in general, steel body mounted don't need to be more than 3/16". Depending what you plan on dragging through the rocks in the way of a tube or slider, the best tube is schedule 80 black pipe for gas. It is tougher and cheaper than DOM.
OP
Yes I do...
My son is making some and he asked what thickness. I said well...we use 3/16"for frame repairs at the shop but curiously I'll ask around and see what some say about that since there's many companies making them. His intention is mounting to the body. I told him about rust... he's going to use the right stuff all the way around..
I told him not a good idea. Spray the undercoating (oil) stuff we use in there...bolt it up. Then twice a year take off and re-apply