Ever wanted to relocate your factory TJ / LJ Rubicon lockers so that they are up out of the skid plate and inside the engine compartment where they should have been all along? This is an especially great idea for those of you who are doing a tummy tuck / belly-up skid plate, in which the aftermarket skid plate doesn't have mounts for the factory compressors.
Tools needed:
Items to purchase:
First of all, open your hood and let it rest on the windshield. This will allow plenty of room to work around. Gather up your tools and slide under the Jeep from the driver’s side, just rear of the shovel (transfer case mount/shield.) The bracket that holds the compressor is held in place with 4 bolts. Use the 13mm socket to remove all 4 bolts. You will be re-using only one of them.
There are 3 air hoses connected to the compressors. The smaller two are 5/32” and connect to each compressors output nipple. The larger air hose connects to a plastic T nipple and runs to the compressor in-take nipples. The other end of the larger air hose runs back, up and over the gas tank and is tied to the gas filler hose. Remove the 4 outer Torx screws and 4 inner Torx screws holding the gas cap ring in place. You will see 2 air hose tied to the filler hose that are identical in size and both have a white plastic filter on the end. Make sure you remove the correct hose. Put it aside for later.
Care should be taken when removing the rubber hoses from the plastic nipples. I cut all three air hoses about an inch away from the end of the plastic nipple and then used the utility knife to make a slit in the tubing. The short piece of tubing came off the plastic nipples super easy. The plastic nipples have broken off the compressors because of too much force.
Next is separating the 2 electrical connections that come from the wiring harness and go to each air compressor. Before separating, mark each one with the letter “R”, for rear and the letter “F” for front. Mark both halves of the connectors and mark the letters onto the bracket near each compressor.
You do not need to separate the other 2 connections. Locate the connector attached to the compressor. On the top of the connector there is a red “keeper”.
Look closely and you can see there is a very small tab that needs to be pushed sideways and in to slide this red keeper. I used the tip of the utility knife blade to push the tab sideways and in at the same time.
Make sure to slide the red keeper as far as it can go using your thumbnail or small screwdriver.
Now you can squeeze the end tab and gently work the two ends of the connectors apart. All the connectors are attached to the bracket with a separate plastic piece that has two push screws.
It is easier to pry under the two remaining connectors with a screwdriver and lift the whole connector off than it is to try to separate them. After removing the two connectors the metal bracket is now free to remove. At this point you can remove the compressors and clean and paint everything. I didn’t, but will at a later date.
Now your ready to make this bracket. I bent the flat bar in a vise using a hammer. Mark the location of the holes and clamp the bracket in a vise before drilling. If your using a handheld drill motor, it is easier to drill horizontally than vertically. Use a scrap piece of wood as a backing block. Don't forget eye and ear protection.
Use one ¼”- 14 sheet metal screw to fasten the compressor bracket to the inner fender using an existing hole. Use one of the bolts that secured the compressor bracket under the Jeep and bolt this new bracket to the tray below the brake unit in an existing hole that is already threaded. The bolt is a perfect fit. Use a 5/16”-18 x 3/4” long bolt and nylon lock nut to secure the top of the new bracket to the compressor bracket.
Check fit and finish. Adjust, if necessary. Unbolt the compressor bracket and set aside.
Time to do some wiring. Locate the “R” and “F” half connectors under the Jeep and peel back the plastic conduit to the next split in the wires. Mine had about 4” of wire between the connector and the next split. Remember to mark all wires with the “R” and “F” using tape. Cut both wires about the half way point to each connector. Strip each end of all wires approx. ¼”. Take the 18-2 wire you purchased and cut it into 2 pieces 10 feet, then strip back the outer cover about 1-1/2” and strip the ends of the wires ¼”. Using the 22-18 gauge weatherproof butt connectors, crimp one to each end of the wires coming from the wiring harness. The 2 wires coming from the harness are (1) black and (2) either tan or yellow with a red strip. Connect the black wire from the harness to the black wire of the 18-2 wire and connect the tan/red wire from the harness to the red of the 18-2 wire and crimp them. Use a heat gun or hair dryer to shrink the outside of the weatherproof butt connectors. It should look like this when you are done.
Notice the glue oozing out of the end of the butt connectors? This will help to seal the connection. Mark the opposite ends of the 18-2 wires with “R” or “F” as needed and run them along the fuel lines to the front.
Remove the air hose that runs to the front locker, from the plastic conduit. Do not cut the hose. Stop where the plastic wire tie is connected to the frame behind the front tire. You do not need to cut the conduit.
If you feel confident with the wire connections, replace all the wires into the plastic conduits and tape them up. I taped and wire tied everything up as I went along. You may want to wait until you test the final results.
Run the two 18-2 wires into the plastic conduit, that the front locker hose came out of, up to the front wire tie.
Remove the air hose from the rear locker (mine was run in a larger diameter plastic conduit that I removed for later use) and run the new air hose inside the new plastic conduit up to the plastic wire tie. Make sure you leave enough length for flexing the rear axle.
Cut the new plastic conduit only, at this wire tie. You should have 1 conduit with two 18-2 wires and 1 conduit with the rear air hose coming from the rear and 1 conduit with front air hose coming from the front all at the wire tie. Here is where I used the larger conduit from the rear and ran both wires and both air hoses up the firewall to the compressors new location. Use wire ties to secure all wires, air hoses and conduits.
Before you start trimming hoses and wires, you need to remove the plastic T nipple connector from the air in-take hoses at the compressors. Use the small flat head screwdriver to push the hoses off the T connector, rotate the connector ¼ turn and re-install. It will look like this.
Place the compressor bracket near the mounting position on its side and check the length of the air hoses. Cut the air hoses as needed and attach to the compressors. Cut the larger air hose you removed from the rear and attach to the plastic T and route to the firewall.
Check the length of the 18-2 wires and trim as needed. Strip the wires, as before, and crimp the butt connectors making sure your “R” and “F” are correct. Use the heat gun or hair dryer to shrink the tube. Use any extra plastic conduit to contain the loose wires and tape them securely. Mount the compressor bracket with the bolts and test your lockers. When your all done, it will look something like this.
For those who have the 4 speed manual transmission, this should still work and have enough clearance for the hydraulic clutch unit attached to the firewall.
Tools needed:
- Metric 13mm socket, small extension and ratchet
- Small flat blade screwdriver
- Wire cutter
- Utility knife with new razor blade
- Electrical tape
- Heat gun or hair dryer
- Eye and ear protection
Items to purchase:
- 12 feet of 5/32” vacuum tubing ($5.88 O’Reilly auto parts)
- 10 feet of 3/8” black conduit ($4.99 pack of 10 AutoZone)
- 20 feet of 18-2 cable ($5.83 Home Depot shielded security cable)
- 1 piece of 1/8” x 1” x 12” long steel flat bar (already had this)
- 1 sheet metal screw ¼”-14, self-tapping (already had this)
First of all, open your hood and let it rest on the windshield. This will allow plenty of room to work around. Gather up your tools and slide under the Jeep from the driver’s side, just rear of the shovel (transfer case mount/shield.) The bracket that holds the compressor is held in place with 4 bolts. Use the 13mm socket to remove all 4 bolts. You will be re-using only one of them.
There are 3 air hoses connected to the compressors. The smaller two are 5/32” and connect to each compressors output nipple. The larger air hose connects to a plastic T nipple and runs to the compressor in-take nipples. The other end of the larger air hose runs back, up and over the gas tank and is tied to the gas filler hose. Remove the 4 outer Torx screws and 4 inner Torx screws holding the gas cap ring in place. You will see 2 air hose tied to the filler hose that are identical in size and both have a white plastic filter on the end. Make sure you remove the correct hose. Put it aside for later.
Care should be taken when removing the rubber hoses from the plastic nipples. I cut all three air hoses about an inch away from the end of the plastic nipple and then used the utility knife to make a slit in the tubing. The short piece of tubing came off the plastic nipples super easy. The plastic nipples have broken off the compressors because of too much force.
Next is separating the 2 electrical connections that come from the wiring harness and go to each air compressor. Before separating, mark each one with the letter “R”, for rear and the letter “F” for front. Mark both halves of the connectors and mark the letters onto the bracket near each compressor.
You do not need to separate the other 2 connections. Locate the connector attached to the compressor. On the top of the connector there is a red “keeper”.
Look closely and you can see there is a very small tab that needs to be pushed sideways and in to slide this red keeper. I used the tip of the utility knife blade to push the tab sideways and in at the same time.
Make sure to slide the red keeper as far as it can go using your thumbnail or small screwdriver.
Now you can squeeze the end tab and gently work the two ends of the connectors apart. All the connectors are attached to the bracket with a separate plastic piece that has two push screws.
It is easier to pry under the two remaining connectors with a screwdriver and lift the whole connector off than it is to try to separate them. After removing the two connectors the metal bracket is now free to remove. At this point you can remove the compressors and clean and paint everything. I didn’t, but will at a later date.
Now your ready to make this bracket. I bent the flat bar in a vise using a hammer. Mark the location of the holes and clamp the bracket in a vise before drilling. If your using a handheld drill motor, it is easier to drill horizontally than vertically. Use a scrap piece of wood as a backing block. Don't forget eye and ear protection.
Use one ¼”- 14 sheet metal screw to fasten the compressor bracket to the inner fender using an existing hole. Use one of the bolts that secured the compressor bracket under the Jeep and bolt this new bracket to the tray below the brake unit in an existing hole that is already threaded. The bolt is a perfect fit. Use a 5/16”-18 x 3/4” long bolt and nylon lock nut to secure the top of the new bracket to the compressor bracket.
Check fit and finish. Adjust, if necessary. Unbolt the compressor bracket and set aside.
Time to do some wiring. Locate the “R” and “F” half connectors under the Jeep and peel back the plastic conduit to the next split in the wires. Mine had about 4” of wire between the connector and the next split. Remember to mark all wires with the “R” and “F” using tape. Cut both wires about the half way point to each connector. Strip each end of all wires approx. ¼”. Take the 18-2 wire you purchased and cut it into 2 pieces 10 feet, then strip back the outer cover about 1-1/2” and strip the ends of the wires ¼”. Using the 22-18 gauge weatherproof butt connectors, crimp one to each end of the wires coming from the wiring harness. The 2 wires coming from the harness are (1) black and (2) either tan or yellow with a red strip. Connect the black wire from the harness to the black wire of the 18-2 wire and connect the tan/red wire from the harness to the red of the 18-2 wire and crimp them. Use a heat gun or hair dryer to shrink the outside of the weatherproof butt connectors. It should look like this when you are done.
Notice the glue oozing out of the end of the butt connectors? This will help to seal the connection. Mark the opposite ends of the 18-2 wires with “R” or “F” as needed and run them along the fuel lines to the front.
Remove the air hose that runs to the front locker, from the plastic conduit. Do not cut the hose. Stop where the plastic wire tie is connected to the frame behind the front tire. You do not need to cut the conduit.
If you feel confident with the wire connections, replace all the wires into the plastic conduits and tape them up. I taped and wire tied everything up as I went along. You may want to wait until you test the final results.
Run the two 18-2 wires into the plastic conduit, that the front locker hose came out of, up to the front wire tie.
Remove the air hose from the rear locker (mine was run in a larger diameter plastic conduit that I removed for later use) and run the new air hose inside the new plastic conduit up to the plastic wire tie. Make sure you leave enough length for flexing the rear axle.
Cut the new plastic conduit only, at this wire tie. You should have 1 conduit with two 18-2 wires and 1 conduit with the rear air hose coming from the rear and 1 conduit with front air hose coming from the front all at the wire tie. Here is where I used the larger conduit from the rear and ran both wires and both air hoses up the firewall to the compressors new location. Use wire ties to secure all wires, air hoses and conduits.
Before you start trimming hoses and wires, you need to remove the plastic T nipple connector from the air in-take hoses at the compressors. Use the small flat head screwdriver to push the hoses off the T connector, rotate the connector ¼ turn and re-install. It will look like this.
Place the compressor bracket near the mounting position on its side and check the length of the air hoses. Cut the air hoses as needed and attach to the compressors. Cut the larger air hose you removed from the rear and attach to the plastic T and route to the firewall.
Check the length of the 18-2 wires and trim as needed. Strip the wires, as before, and crimp the butt connectors making sure your “R” and “F” are correct. Use the heat gun or hair dryer to shrink the tube. Use any extra plastic conduit to contain the loose wires and tape them securely. Mount the compressor bracket with the bolts and test your lockers. When your all done, it will look something like this.
For those who have the 4 speed manual transmission, this should still work and have enough clearance for the hydraulic clutch unit attached to the firewall.
