How To Replace Rubicon Axle Air Fitting

Mike_H

autos are better - WRWD508
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Grand Rapids, MI, United States
Mine were both rusted, so I made some new ones, instead of paying a ridiculous amount of money to the dealership. No Joke, the cheapest I found these was 35 bucks plus shipping. Local dealerships wanted nearly 50! I went to the hardware store, and for less than 10 bucks, bought the materials I needed. This is the front, after I whacked it with a cold chisel. I circled the fitting, as its hard to distinguish the rusty fitting from the rusty housing! It was pretty stuck, I started to drill it out with a 5/16" drill. As I suspected, the drill grabbed it and the force from that freed up the rust bond. I was able to press it out then.

20170226_135809.jpg


I started with a 3/16" brass compression fitting and about a 1 foot piece of 1/4" flexible copper tubing.

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Using my drill press and a couple files, I "turned" the end down to 0.295" which is close to the stock fitting size. Its a loose press fit to the diff housing.

20170226_141922.jpg


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Now that its sized, I drilled a 1/4" hole through the brass fitting for the copper. After the drill passed though, the copper is line to line. To get a nice fit, I used a burr in my dremel to open the hole up to fit the copper line.

20170226_142850.jpg


Next, Heat the copper and bend it around something to 90 degrees. This is an axle shaft for one of my garden tractors that I'm rebuilding (another hobby). Its about 1.5" in Diameter.

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Heating the copper help prevent the tubing from collapsing. Finally, cut the ends to length and solder the brass and copper together.

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I tried a little flare at the ends to help retain the rubber tubing, but it was too difficult to assemble. Since the system only runs at 5 psi, I just went without. I did clamp the tubing on the exterior, but inside the diff, its just a friction fit. That tubing doesn't move anyway. I don't have any good pictures of it installed. If ya'll want, I'll grab one next time I pull the tires off.
 
Thanks for the great write-up, this is one I haven't seen before!
 
One in the front, on in the rear. I actually did the rear one first. I didn't have the old fitting to pattern, so I just kinda made it fit. I also collapsed the tubing a bit when I bent the 90. My second attempt I was able to make the part more representative of original, as I had the remains of the original fitting.
 
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I suppose all is right in locker land now that the repair is done? Thanks again for the write-up, valuable information. I would do this if needed.
 
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Great write up! I plan on doing it as well. After filling down the compression fitting and reinstalling did you seal it? Maybe I missed it?
 
Great write up! I plan on doing it as well. After filling down the compression fitting and reinstalling did you seal it? Maybe I missed it?
I did not. It was a tight fit, but thinking about it more, I am going to go back in and expoy the fitting to the diff housing. I want to investigate my fluid to see if its actually a problem or not, but its something always in the back of my mind.
 
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My thinking is that the brass copper mix will heat and cool at different temperatures than the cast steel of the diff and possibly cause a tiny gap for water to seap in. I definitely think this is the best "fix" I have seen for this issue but I plan on adding a little rtv to it when I install. Cheers
 
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Mine were both rusted, so I made some new ones, instead of paying a ridiculous amount of money to the dealership. No Joke, the cheapest I found these was 35 bucks plus shipping. Local dealerships wanted nearly 50! I went to the hardware store, and for less than 10 bucks, bought the materials I needed. This is the front, after I whacked it with a cold chisel. I circled the fitting, as its hard to distinguish the rusty fitting from the rusty housing! It was pretty stuck, I started to drill it out with a 5/16" drill. As I suspected, the drill grabbed it and the force from that freed up the rust bond. I was able to press it out then.

View attachment 12074

I started with a 3/16" brass compression fitting and about a 1 foot piece of 1/4" flexible copper tubing.

View attachment 12063

Using my drill press and a couple files, I "turned" the end down to 0.295" which is close to the stock fitting size. Its a loose press fit to the diff housing.

View attachment 12068

View attachment 12069

Now that its sized, I drilled a 1/4" hole through the brass fitting for the copper. After the drill passed though, the copper is line to line. To get a nice fit, I used a burr in my dremel to open the hole up to fit the copper line.

View attachment 12070

Next, Heat the copper and bend it around something to 90 degrees. This is an axle shaft for one of my garden tractors that I'm rebuilding (another hobby). Its about 1.5" in Diameter.

View attachment 12071

Heating the copper help prevent the tubing from collapsing. Finally, cut the ends to length and solder the brass and copper together.

View attachment 12072

View attachment 12073

I tried a little flare at the ends to help retain the rubber tubing, but it was too difficult to assemble. Since the system only runs at 5 psi, I just went without. I did clamp the tubing on the exterior, but inside the diff, its just a friction fit. That tubing doesn't move anyway. I don't have any good pictures of it installed. If ya'll want, I'll grab one next time I pull the tires off.
Thank you, nice solution
 
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Best? Who knows. I used JB weld.
Sounds good. I tried some RTV just like in this post, but my ‘axle vent’ (know it’s not an axle vent) came right out. I’m hoping fixing this in place with epoxy will help my rear locker engage.

Do I need to pull the cover again and push something on to the other side of this fitting?

Thank you so much for the help!!
 
Sounds good. I tried some RTV just like in this post, but my ‘axle vent’ (know it’s not an axle vent) came right out. I’m hoping fixing this in place with epoxy will help my rear locker engage.

Do I need to pull the cover again and push something on to the other side of this fitting?

Thank you so much for the help!!
you might. The fitting doesn't have to seal airtight to the axle housing. You want it sealed to keep gear oil in and crap out. The locker air line will be installed to the inner side of the fitting that goes through the housing. If your locker isn't working and that fitting came out, I would suspect that the air line has come off the fitting inside the housing. So...long answer to a simple question...Yes, I think you'll need to open the diff and re-install the air line.
 
I can work with that. Just great to know that is (likely) what will fix my issue. I’ll pick up some 3/16 fuel tubing just in case, but plan to open the diff up and reattach a tube I now know is hooked to nothing. I’ll jb weld the fitting in place with a tube on each end and hopefully have a rear locker that works like my front.

Thanks again! Cheers!