How to upgrade your Jeep Wrangler TJ stereo (amps and speakers)

Question:

Why a 4 channel and not a 5 channel?

When I was out pricing/shopping for parts and ideas the local shop recommended a 5 channel to power/provide for all 4 new speakers and the sub.
 
Why a 4 channel and not a 5 channel?
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For my system, my replacement sub used the OEM amp for the sub. The pros to this setup was easy sub install. The cons, was I was limited to what speaker would work.

I wanted to keep the sub in the console with minimal modification. If you plan to mount the sub in a different location, a 5 channel amp would be a better choice.
 
LCL-Dead said:
Question:

Why a 4 channel and not a 5 channel?

When I was out pricing/shopping for parts and ideas the local shop recommended a 5 channel to power/provide for all 4 new speakers and the sub.
Click to expand...

The OP only had 4 channels that needed power. He switched his sub woofer to a self powered subwoofer, meaning there is a built-in amplifier inside of the subwoofer.

You should formulate a build design (and Budget) before buying products. And ask as many questions as needed until you feel good about the build.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IF9IIWK/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Sound Ordnance built this new version to perform even better than its predecessor, putting a cool-running 125-watt amp and a rugged aluminum 8" sub in an extremely compact, solid ABS plastic enclosure,so you get years of bass satisfaction. This all-in-one unit frees you from having to deal with a separate sub, amp, and enclosure, saves you cargo space, and simplifies your wiring requirements.
 
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04jeeptj said:
What is the part number for those adapters that connect the speakers directly into the OEM speaker connections? Looking for a quick and easy speaker trade out.
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If you order speakers through Crutchfield, the adapters/mounts come for free.

You can find part numbers here, select your Jeep year and type.

http://metraonline.com/vfgapi/vehicle/76678?
Screenshot_20190725-204216.jpg
 
Thanks for the write up!

Can you explain how you secured the amp and subwoofer under the seats to the floor?

If you have pictures too that would be great.

I'm thinking of installing an amp under my back seat and im trying to figure out how to do it.
 
ScottB said:
Simply connect the harness and mount the new speaker in the factory opening. The 6 1/2" does NOT sit completely in the opening. It actually mounts on the outer edge of the OEM opening, but the Polk Audio speaker cover, covers all of the mounting screws.

View attachment 25746
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How did you get the speaker mounted to the sound bar? The 4 holes for the old 5.25" don't exactly line up with the 6.5", nor does it quite fit in, even after the dremel.

I'm guessing you just used the new 6.5" cover, and screwed that straight into the plastic of the sound bar? I'm trying to do that, but it's going in kinda crooked, and not all of the screws are taking to the plastic.
 
Thunder Mass said:
How did you get the speaker mounted to the sound bar? The 4 holes for the old 5.25" don't exactly line up with the 6.5", nor does it quite fit in, even after the dremel.

I'm guessing you just used the new 6.5" cover, and screwed that straight into the plastic of the sound bar? I'm trying to do that, but it's going in kinda crooked, and not all of the screws are taking to the plastic.
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This is how mine came out - similar Polks - I have the 6.5" component speakers instead of the 6.5" coaxial, but same difference...

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Great info on everything! Thanks for posing.

Any recommendations on the best place to fit in a Sub in a 97? Also, where were the rear speakers originally? Mine currently has an aftermarket 2 speaker unit with a dome light across the roll bar for the rear speakers.
 
Thunder Mass said:
Looks like you had to drill new holes into the pods? I'm thinking it might be easier to do if I removed them, instead of drilling into them while installed.
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No drilling, you can just screw right in, or use a small bolt and nut. Agreed, remove them to do this, 100% remove them, will be so much easier to install. Also think about changing the lights to LED, much brighter, and the light cover caps may rattle so you can use some double sided foam tape or weatherstripping, just cut a couple small squares and stick on the light cover caps.

Recently I disconnected my speaker pods and trying out the system without using them. I plan to turn them back on today to see which set-up I like better.

The best upgrade I have made is relocating tweeters to the a-pillar trim, and using name brand tweeters. A 5.25" 2-way set with crossover is ideal for this set-up, and a relatively easy install.

20180708_193310.jpg
 
skrelnik said:
No drilling, you can just screw right in, or use a small bolt and nut. Agreed, remove them to do this, 100% remove them, will be so much easier to install. Also think about changing the lights to LED, much brighter, and the light cover caps may rattle so you can use some double sided foam tape or weatherstripping, just cut a couple small squares and stick on the light cover caps.

Recently I disconnected my speaker pods and trying out the system without using them. I plan to turn them back on today to see which set-up I like better.

The best upgrade I have made is relocating tweeters to the a-pillar trim, and using name brand tweeters. A 5.25" 2-way set with crossover is ideal for this set-up, and a relatively easy install.

View attachment 148641
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I could not fit a 6.5" speaker into the opening in the pod, and the screws didn't line up with the factory holes. Maybe the Polks are different? Dunno.
 
Thunder Mass said:
I could not fit a 6.5" speaker into the opening in the pod, and the screws didn't line up with the factory holes. Maybe the Polks are different? Dunno.
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It's quite possible as speakers come in different sizes. What 6.5" speakers do you have?

The screws may not line up with the factory holes, and you can choose to screw them in, and use the screw as the "drill", or drill some holes and use a mini nut/bolt combo.
 
skrelnik said:
It's quite possible as speakers come in different sizes. What 6.5" speakers do you have?

The screws may not line up with the factory holes, and you can choose to screw them in, and use the screw as the "drill", or drill some holes and use a mini nut/bolt combo.
Click to expand...

I got Polks. I tried using the screws to drill into the pod; just made a few holes and a lopsided speaker. But, that was with the pod installed. I'll see what I can do when I remove them.
 
Thunder Mass said:
I got Polks. I tried using the screws to drill into the pod; just made a few holes and a lopsided speaker. But, that was with the pod installed. I'll see what I can do when I remove them.
Click to expand...

Yeah, definitely remove the pods as you are fighting with gravity when installing the speakers.
 
I got the pods out. Still doesn't give me much to work with. I can't get all of the screws in the same parts of the pods; some screws are going in the outside of the pod, some on the lower lip where the old screw holes were, so they don't really catch well either. And it's sitting kinda lopsided. I'm thinking I might just give up and go back to 5.25" speakers. Which, is kinda a bummer.
 
I completed the head unit and speakers upgrade. Waiting on the wiring kit to finish the B-8PD. I really want to reinstall it back in the center consol where the previous sub was. Has anyone done this and can chime in with how to fasten it in there so it doesn't rattle or move around?
 
So how have you liked the SO powered sub? I'm looking to add one to my TJ and I already have a couple of their amps in my truck and love them.
 
In the middle of putting new system in. What happens with the original giant sub plug/wires? Just tape it up and leave it? Or is there something I've got to cut and splice. I'm no electronics guru, lol. TIA
 
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