How would you get this broken bolt out?

Several different ways to go about this have been posted, some better than others and billiebob is probably right about corrosion being on the outside of that bolt. I have no idea why everyone is avoiding telling benny3577 that corrosion is rust and that Jeep needs to be replaced with one with no rust at all. I'll buy it for $1000 he can ship it to me here in Ohio.
 
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C.J. Roberts said:
It's monkeys, not cats. o_O
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Actually it is cats....


How is kopi luwak coffee processed?
First, the palm civet cats eats the premier coffee berries. During the digestion process the coffee seed, commonly known as coffee beans, are not digested by the civet. When they are defecated after about 24 hours, local farm people collect the droppings and separate the coffee beans from the feces. From that point on the coffee beans are handled like any other coffee beans: they are washed, dried, pounded (to remove the outer skin), sorted and finally roasted.
 
If this were mine I would center punch the dead center of the bolt, use a cobalt drill bit to go down deep enough to use a screw extractor. Before torquing the screw extractor soak the threads in Kroil and let sit. Repeat several times. Carefully try backing the screw extractor out being careful not to snap it. Sometimes going to a larger dia. hole and extractor will do the trick. All of the other methods mentioned are worth a try but that is where I would start.
 
Rollin20z said:
Actually it is cats....


How is kopi luwak coffee processed?
First, the palm civet cats eats the premier coffee berries. During the digestion process the coffee seed, commonly known as coffee beans, are not digested by the civet. When they are defecated after about 24 hours, local farm people collect the droppings and separate the coffee beans from the feces. From that point on the coffee beans are handled like any other coffee beans: they are washed, dried, pounded (to remove the outer skin), sorted and finally roasted.
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I always heard cats, but I stand corrected.😡
 
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Flib said:
doubtful cutting a slot and using a flat head would work.

get yourself some left handed drill bits, best thing for removing broken bolts in my opinion. You can use regular right handed bits to drill first, once you get a good hole then switch to the left handed bit. Get the biggest size you can that will fit without hitting the threads.
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100% agree with left handed drill bits. I've not had good luck with screw extractors.

I don't recall if OP's bolt can be run down and out the bottom of the tub or if it's captured by sheet metal. The way I'd approach removing this bolt without welding is
1. douse with penetrating oil, both sides of the nut if possible
2. file/grind the shank flat
3. center punch
4. apply heat. I typically use a micro torch or benzomatic torch kit. I'm super paranoid about a garage fire, so I don't own an oxy/acetylene set.
5. use right hand drill bits and cutting oil/lubricant to go through the bolt. Sometimes the heat from this process is enough to break the bolt free.
6. more penetrating oil
7. left hand drill bits to reverse the bolt out, or vice grips on the point to run the bolt down and out
8. chase threaded nut with lubricated tap
 
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benny3577 said:
I was pulling the passenger seat out of the Jeep today and one of the bolts decided not to cooperate, which means I broke it off. I’m sure that many of you have dealt with similar issues. So my question is, how would you go about getting this bolt out aside from welding a nut on and trying again. I could maybe find someone to help with this, but I’m hoping for a different solution. I already squirted a ton of Liquid Wrench around it. Pictures are attached. Thanks in advance.

View attachment 96847

View attachment 96848
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Can't tell how much thread is exposed from the pics, but the double nut method is good method if you can squeeze two nuts on the bolt.

Also, slicing a notch with a dremel, or similar tool, and using a flathead screwdriver, or drill a small horizontal hole in the bolt and insert a similar size metal rod and turn. Use some heat if available.

All three of these methods have worked for me in the past. As others have said vice grips and heat or drilling it out.

BobK said:
Hmmm, I never asked him that, but the saying itself has served me well over the years, it is applicable in many life situations.
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Was your boss Shooter McGavin?


Jerry Bransford said:
Heat the bolt itself with a torch so it's smokin' hot then unscrew it with vise grips. Or have someone weld a nut onto the top of it (yes I read you said other than welding), the welding process will also get it hot enough so it should unscrew. Heat! PB-Blaster would be a waste of time. It came in a distant dead last in a test of penetrants. It only barely beat WD40 which is not a penetrant.
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PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench are what I use, and two weeks ago helped me remove a few bolts like this. This weekend I plan to drop the skid plate and those bolts look like rusted pieces of hell and I am using PB Blaster on them and the transmission bracket nuts.

20190511_132026.jpg
 
Sea Cot said:
100% agree with left handed drill bits. I've not had good luck with screw extractors.

I don't recall if OP's bolt can be run down and out the bottom of the tub or if it's captured by sheet metal. The way I'd approach removing this bolt without welding is
1. douse with penetrating oil, both sides of the nut if possible
2. file/grind the shank flat
3. center punch
4. apply heat. I typically use a micro torch or benzomatic torch kit. I'm super paranoid about a garage fire, so I don't own an oxy/acetylene set.
5. use right hand drill bits and cutting oil/lubricant to go through the bolt. Sometimes the heat from this process is enough to break the bolt free.
6. more penetrating oil
7. left hand drill bits to reverse the bolt out, or vice grips on the point to run the bolt down and out
8. chase threaded nut with lubricated tap
Click to expand...


I've never had any luck with easy outs either, and the worst thing you can do is break one off, then you are royally screwed as you cannot drill it out at that point.
 
LittleTankTJ said:
For a similar bolt I hit it with pb blaster every day for a week and heat right before I used vice grips. If the vice spins without the bolt spinning you can use a wrench on the tightening bolt to make it tighter.

If there's not enough for vice grips you can always cut a notch into it for a flathead.

If that doesn't work you can still it down the middle getting increasingly bigger. At some point of the drilling you can use a chisel to crack it out.
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This is exactly what I would do to get it out!!!
 
I had that same exact shit happen to me last week and I think it was the same bolt. I tried every method I could including: PB blast and soaking, heating, chiseling notches in a counter-clockwise direction, drilling, and a whole host of bolt-extracting drill bits. The broken bolt wasn't sticking up enough to use vise grips.

Finally, I just had to give my neighbor a call who has a welder and the welded bolt method got it out.

Wishing you good luck though. Hope yours will be easier since it's sticking out a bit.
 
Use a tap to punch a center (the hammering may also help loosen it up), drill out the center with as large of a bit as you can (ideally not much more than threads will be remaining), use an appropriate sized extractor for the hole you drilled.

It's going to be difficult to use heat on that without ruining your paint.
 
toximus said:
Use a tap to punch a center (the hammering may also help loosen it up), drill out the center with as large of a bit as you can (ideally not much more than threads will be remaining), use an appropriate sized extractor for the hole you drilled.

It's going to be difficult to use heat on that without ruining your paint.
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True, but a good number of other methods here can screw the paint too. I scratched the ever-loving hell out of my paint, but worst than that, I also singed some of the carpet in the area a bit, haha. Fortunately, my interior is anything but pristine and the scratches in the paint were covered from the seat bracket when I put the seat back, so it's nothing noticeable.
 
I hate to disagree with Jerry on my first post, I'm sure he is much more knowledgeable than me, but I have always heated the area around the bolt to swell it and then put a piece of ice on the bolt to shrink, then grab with vice grips to twist out and as Billiebob said, go at it from underneath if you can.
 
Flib said:
I've never had any luck with easy outs either, and the worst thing you can do is break one off, then you are royally screwed as you cannot drill it out at that point.
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X2 Been there.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Heat the bolt itself with a torch so it's smokin' hot then unscrew it with vise grips. Or have someone weld a nut onto the top of it (yes I read you said other than welding), the welding process will also get it hot enough so it should unscrew. Heat! PB-Blaster would be a waste of time. It came in a distant dead last in a test of penetrants. It only barely beat WD40 which is not a penetrant.
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Actually Jerry is right on this, I may tease him a little but he is dead nuts correct if you want the nutplate to remain intact. I would take it out from the bottom if you have access. Tim
 
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One other thing too, since I assume you're going to replace the broken bolt once you've gotten the broken one out, you'll want to look for a 8 mm x 1.25 bolt that's 33 mm long and get a matching 33 mm washer for it.
 
I had the same thing happen, just on the driver's side. I ended up knocking the welded nut out and just used a hardened bolt, nut and fender washers to bolt the seat in from underneath. Not elegant, but it works well.

Sorry, just saw you can't access from below. I thought it was one of the rear bolts.
 
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