I have body lift hesitance: is a mild tummy tuck the answer?

[TRevs]

Working my way through DPG OME lift kit. I have so far deferred the MML and BL due to other NSG370 2005-06 owners documenting trouble with their shifter hitting the console and destrying the lower shift boot, as described below:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/nsg370-shifter-hitting-after-body-lift.12355/

The great @JMT says:

Ah man, you're going to have the same problem I had. I have an 05 with the 6-speed, we have the same lower shifter boot. Mine tore to shreds after I got my 1.25" BL. I'm curious, do you also have a MML? WARNING: If you just put a new lower shift boot on there to keep all that heat from coming into your cab, you're just going to end up tearing it up again. I had to move the shifter connection point up to get it out of where the rubber is supposed to be AND I had to move the console back 1".

and later:

FYI, the real solution is a Tummy Tuck.

I'm happy on 33's with 2.5" suspension lift, and don't want the expense of a flat belly, but I'm wondering if something like the UCF "No BL req'd" TC skid would allow me to mount the BL and MML and keep the shifter/console in position as well as run stock driveshafts, control arms.

The UCF skid claims 1.5" above stock, plus the 2.5" SL gets me 4" at the TC; some LJ users ( @Apparition , @rasband @DuncLJ ) seem to have gotten away with this in the Official Tummy Tuck thread.

 

[Chris]

Either lift do a tummy tuck and tuck it all the damn way, or don't do one at all.

Do it once, do it right.

 

[rasband]

The UCF skid claims 1.5" above stock, plus the 2.5" SL gets me 4" at the TC; some LJ users ( @Apparition , @rasband @DuncLJ ) seem to have gotten away with this in the Official Tummy Tuck thread.

I had to order a new driveshaft for the rear. Why do you want to run the stock DS?

I’d say with an LJ you want that as flat as possible - so if you can afford to, get that tummy as tight as you can.

Also whether or not it lifts the transmission is what dictates if it will solve your problem or not. Does it move the tranny 1.5” up or just shave off all that extra from the shovel?

 

[Viking Jeeper]

If the UCF gets you 1.5 inches at the skid that's an improvement for sure. If you do it with a 1.25 BL the relationship between the shifter and the boot will be .25" different than stock and should not cause the other issues.

 

[rasband]

If the UCF gets you 1.5 inches at the skid that's an improvement for sure. If you do it with a 1.25 BL the relationship between the shifter and the boot will be .25" different than stock and should not cause the other issues.

Im not sure it will work, 1.5” from stock isn’t all that hard if you measure the lowest piece (the lip on the front or back of the shovel). If it doesn’t move the transmission physically higher it won’t push the shifter back up to remove the interference.

 

[Viking Jeeper]

Im not sure it will work, 1.5” from stock isn’t all that hard if you measure the lowest piece (the lip on the front or back of the shovel). If it doesn’t move the transmission physically higher it won’t push the shifter back up to remove the interference.

You may be right, I don't know where measurements were taken. I was Just thinking about moving the transferase/trans up 1.5 inches then the body 1.25 inches. To be sure they should cancel each other out to some extent.

 

[never monday]

Im not sure it will work, 1.5” from stock isn’t all that hard if you measure the lowest piece (the lip on the front or back of the shovel). If it doesn’t move the transmission physically higher it won’t push the shifter back up to remove the interference.

Then he should look at the extra clearance UCF

 

[TRevs]

Either lift do a tummy tuck and tuck it all the damn way, or don't do one at all.

Do it once, do it right.

probably the way to go

 

[Viking Jeeper]

probably the way to go

Depending on intended use and budget. Some will NEVER need a full tuck.

 

[rasband]

You may be right, I don't know where measurements were taken. I was Just thinking about moving the transferase/trans up 1.5 inches then the body 1.25 inches. To be sure they should cancel each other out to some extent.

Then he should look at the extra clearance UCF

Looks like they say this one hangs down 3”. So we can find out what it does if the OP measures frame to ground and subtracts 3”. Then does that measurement as close to the center as possible and roughly eyes if that would require pushing up the tranny or not.

 

[TRevs]

I had to order a new driveshaft for the rear. Why do you want to run the stock DS?

partly saving $$, but mainly saving time so I don't miss trail time this summer.

 

[never monday]

Even the NO BL skid is an improvement from the shovel! The leading edge is bent up to slide instead of the shovels dig.

 

[Chris]

probably the way to go

Honestly, it is. You'll look back down the road later if you don't and wish you had.

I'm proof of that. I did a mild tuck and it wasn't long before I immediately regretted it and knew I should have just gone with a full tuck.

 

[TRevs]

looks like the lowest point of the shovel is 4" down from the frame

and ~13.5" from the ground.

The idea would be a simple/cheap way to raise the transmission mount about an inch so the shifter remains in the same location relative to the body. Is there a transmission mount lift??

 

[TRevs]

Also whether or not it lifts the transmission is what dictates if it will solve your problem or not. Does it move the tranny 1.5” up or just shave off all that extra from the shovel?

That's a good point. If it raises the bottom of the skid without raising the transmission it wouldn't accomplish my main goal.

 

[Viking Jeeper]

The UCF skid includes a crossmember that strengthens the skid but also raises the trans mount.

 

[rasband]

View attachment 242911
looks like the lowest point of the shovel is 4" down from the frame

View attachment 242912

and ~13.5" from the ground.

The idea would be a simple/cheap way to raise the transmission mount about an inch so the shifter remains in the same location relative to the body. Is there a transmission mount lift??

View attachment 242911

View attachment 242912

View attachment 242913

Okay, so 18 3/8”, if theirs is 3” off the frame rail that puts it at 15 3/8” on your rig. Add back the thickness of the new skid + the low pro mount and compare it to where your transmission sits now. That’s pretty close to where yours would end up.

 

[06lj]

I installed the Barnes 4WD skid with a 1" motor mount and 1" body lift. The skid raised the transfer case .75" so is pretty close. I picked it up during one of their sales for $180. It's a solid skid and built well. I ran this with my OME lift on my LJ and had room for my 33's.

 

[Viking Jeeper]

This crossmember raises the transmission mount 3/4" off the top of the skid.

 

[TRevs]

I installed the Barnes 4WD skid with a 1" motor mount and 1" body lift. The skid raised the transfer case .75" so is pretty close. I picked it up during one of their sales for $180. It's a solid skid and built well. I ran this with my OME lift on my LJ and had room for my 33's.

That looks nice and a much better price!