Identifying lift

[jjvw]

Can I cut the 3” pucks down to 1”? Maybe I’ll have to buy new front ones but that’s better than a whole new kit.

...

Cut the spacers down and get shorter bolts.

 

[Chris]

Can I cut the 3” pucks down to 1”? Maybe I’ll have to buy new front ones but that’s better than a whole new kit.

Also, if I’m going to replace springs and shocks anyway. Is it best to go with 3” suspension lift and 0 BL. Or go 2” suspension + 1” body?

A new body lift is around $120. You could cut yours down, but you’ll have to make sure you get them all the exact measurement.

A body lift is only needed if you plan to tuck the underside at some point. If not, then you don’t need it. What size tire do you plan to run?

 

[Alex01]

If you're going to cut them down go for 1.25"

 

[SoCalTJ]

A new body lift is around $120. You could cut yours down, but you’ll have to make sure you get them all the exact measurement.

A body lift is only needed if you plan to tuck the underside at some point. If not, then you don’t need it. What size tire do you plan to run?

Probably 32"....max 33 but highly doubtful.

 

[Chris]

Probably 32"....max 33 but highly doubtful.

If you're going to run a 32" I would go with a 2" or 2.5" lift. That could be done as a combination of a 1" suspension lift and a 1.25" body lift, or just a 2" or 2.5" suspension lift.

If you're planning on running 33s, I would go with a 4" suspension lift, or a 3" suspension lift and a 1.25" body lift.

You need to sit down and really think about how you're going to use it and the long term goals for the vehicle. A body lift is not really necessary unless you plan to do a tummy tuck at some point. If you never really plan on doing any serious off-roading and it's mostly just driven on-road, you don't need a tummy tuck (and therefore a body lift) at all.

I have 265s (31.8") tires on mine, and I am just doing a 1.25" body lift and a 1" coil spring spacer lift. That will give me plenty of room to run these tires, and it will allow me to tuck the underside, which will be nice because even though I don't go rock crawling, the underside still hangs low enough that it can get caught up on things you wouldn't expect.

 

[scottgraham]

There's a dude on Ebay that will cut and drill pucks to order for like 3 or 4 bucks apiece unless you're dead set on aluminum ones. It would be much safer and less time ($$) consuming than cutting yours down. Either cut down your existing bolts, or remove, replace, and sell as a set, break even, minus labor.

 

[SoCalTJ]

If you're going to run a 32" I would go with a 2" or 2.5" lift. That could be done as a combination of a 1" suspension lift and a 1.25" body lift, or just a 2" or 2.5" suspension lift.

If you're planning on running 33s, I would go with a 4" suspension lift, or a 3" suspension lift and a 1.25" body lift.

You need to sit down and really think about how you're going to use it and the long term goals for the vehicle. A body lift is not really necessary unless you plan to do a tummy tuck at some point. If you never really plan on doing any serious off-roading and it's mostly just driven on-road, you don't need a tummy tuck (and therefore a body lift) at all.

I have 265s (31.8") tires on mine, and I am just doing a 1.25" body lift and a 1" coil spring spacer lift. That will give me plenty of room to run these tires, and it will allow me to tuck the underside, which will be nice because even though I don't go rock crawling, the underside still hangs low enough that it can get caught up on things you wouldn't expect.

Thanks definitely some things to think about. I think I'm going to roll with the items below (from another recent thread) + a 1.25" body lift.

1) Rancho RS5000X Shocks 0-2" (2 Front) — RS55128
2) Rancho RS5000X Shocks 0-2" (2 Rear) — RS55240
3) Pro Comp 2" Springs (Front) — EXP55297
4) Pro Comp 2" Springs (Rear) — EXP55298
5) OME Rear Track Bar Reloaction Bracket — ARB FKWTJ02

 

[SoCalTJ]

There's a dude on Ebay that will cut and drill pucks to order for like 3 or 4 bucks apiece unless you're dead set on aluminum ones. It would be much safer and less time ($$) consuming than cutting yours down. Either cut down your existing bolts, or remove, replace, and sell as a set, break even, minus labor.

Cool...I'll check it out!

 

[Chris]

Thanks definitely some things to think about. I think I'm going to roll with the items below (from another recent thread) + a 1.25" body lift.

1) Rancho RS5000X Shocks 0-2" (2 Front) — RS55128
2) Rancho RS5000X Shocks 0-2" (2 Rear) — RS55240
3) Pro Comp 2" Springs (Front) — EXP55297
4) Pro Comp 2" Springs (Rear) — EXP55298
5) OME Rear Track Bar Reloaction Bracket — ARB FKWTJ02

That is a great setup for a mild build

 

[SoCalTJ]

That is a great setup for a mild build

What about quick disconnects? Overkill? They’re cheap enough.

 

[Chris]

What about quick disconnects? Overkill? They’re cheap enough.

Better than nothing, but even on my mild build I have an Antirock

 

[SoCalTJ]

Anybody know what the length of the stock body mount bolts are??

 

[SoCalTJ]

Anybody know what the length of the stock body mount bolts are??

Think I got it in case anyone else is looking...gotta love the resources section - parts manual

 

[astjp2]

There's a dude on Ebay that will cut and drill pucks to order for like 3 or 4 bucks apiece unless you're dead set on aluminum ones. It would be much safer and less time ($$) consuming than cutting yours down. Either cut down your existing bolts, or remove, replace, and sell as a set, break even, minus labor.

Those plastic pucks only cost $4 each new...