I'm confused about sheath on winch line

bucky

Old Fart
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2020
Messages
1,454
Location
SoCal/North Dakota/ N Az
Going on a desert run next weekend and doing some general maintenance on the TJ. Having a winch with synthetic rope is new to me.
I pulled the rope completely out inspected it for frays and dirt and then rewound it back on keeping tension and making sue the alignment was tight. My question is about the sheath that covers about 10’ at the hook end. I asked the Google about it and got conflicting answers. Some say it goes on the spool end and acts as a heat shield to protect the rope from the internal brake produced heat. Others say it goes on the hook end and is for abrasion protection? Which is it?

IMG_2105.jpeg
 
Maybe a thread hijack but I think related- So I thought the sleeve was to help with UV protection on the outer wraps. I snapped a synthetic rope first time using it- could been have been a cheap rope on the superwinch? (9500lb on a Tacoma) But it had me wondering if I should have not had that sleeve down by the fairlead (syntetic) as it was bit of a side pull And wear it actually broke- Of course I replaced that rope and did not have any problems after that…but honestly I don’t winch often.

All that to say, here to understand why do they included the sleeve. Cheap winches have cheap rope?, or side pulls@50 degrees a no-no.
 
Maybe a thread hijack but I think related- So I thought the sleeve was to help with UV protection on the outer wraps. I snapped a synthetic rope first time using it- could been have been a cheap rope on the superwinch? (9500lb on a Tacoma) But it had me wondering if I should have not had that sleeve down by the fairlead (syntetic) as it was bit of a side pull And wear it actually broke- Of course I replaced that rope and did not have any problems after that…but honestly I don’t winch often.

All that to say, here to understand why do they included the sleeve. Cheap winches have cheap rope?, or side pulls@50 degrees a no-no.

Companies put abrasion guards on winch ropes because their uninformed customers want them. Abrasion guards don't do anything. There are not thick enough material or long enough to protect the rope. And they can hide the very damage they are supposed to prevent by encouraging people to be careless because they think they have an abrasion guard that does something.

Where UV degradation is concerned, these types of ropes come from the shipping industry. They sit on docks and decks without UV protection. What makes your rope on a Jeep special that it needs additional UV protection from a 4ft long sleeve?
 
Last edited:
Going on a desert run next weekend and doing some general maintenance on the TJ. Having a winch with synthetic rope is new to me.
I pulled the rope completely out inspected it for frays and dirt and then rewound it back on keeping tension and making sue the alignment was tight. My question is about the sheath that covers about 10’ at the hook end. I asked the Google about it and got conflicting answers. Some say it goes on the spool end and acts as a heat shield to protect the rope from the internal brake produced heat. Others say it goes on the hook end and is for abrasion protection? Which is it?

View attachment 491443

That type of guard is fairly useless. As stated, it is only there because folks don't understand what they do and don't do and then assign enough value to them that it sways their decision to purchase a line that has one over a line that doesn't if both are the same price.

Under load winching in, they regularly bunch up by dragging against the fairlead opening and get jammed on the line which only gets worse as it happens more. If you care to see if it is something you'd like to keep, the test is simple, get a short piece of it, stick it over your finger and see if you trust it to keep your finger safe from a sharp knife. That may seem a bit unfair but if you move that sleeve over to where your line is resting on a sharp rock and hit the spool in button, the 1000's of pounds of force against the rock are doing the same thing and the line will get damaged.

As a heat shield, they aren't that great either. The first problem is how much heat a winch produces that has to overcome the cone brake to spool in which isn't really that much. The line on the drum gets squished because folks don't spool it up the first time under enough tension to stack the layer in tight. When it gets flattened, it often takes on a very shiny appearance that folks confuse with the line being melted, it isn't, it is just flat and shiny.

Not sure what you have for a hook or fairlead but I can see the SS thimble sucked into the fairlead opening. If you have an aluminum fairlead, the opening should only ever have just the line in it. Hooks, thimbles, etc. when stored like that, can damage the smooth surface, causes nicks and burrs and those will damage the line being spooled in under load. You also need to make sure the opening in the fairlead mount is larger by at least 1/4" all the way around the opening in the fairlead. Contact with any of those mount edges will fully destroy the line under load.
 
I noticed that the flair head is narrower than the spool so when I was respooling the rope I had to manually adjust it so it wound up even and tight. Good to know that I don’t have to worry about the sheath and can remove it at some point down the road.
 
Companies put abrasion guards on winch ropes because their uninformed customers want them. Abrasion guards don't do anything. There are not thick enough material or long enough to protect the rope. And they can hide the very damage they are supposed to prevent by encouraging people to be careless because they think they have an abrasion guard that does something.

Where UV degradation is concerned, these types of ropes come from the shipping industry. They sit on docks and decks without UV protection. What makes your rope on a Jeep special that it needs additional UV protection from a 4ft long sleeve?

i think that there was a presumption that the person asking the question knew that synthetic line was inherently UV resistant,🤣 but learned something new today.
 
I noticed that the flair head is narrower than the spool so when I was respooling the rope I had to manually adjust it so it wound up even and tight. Good to know that I don’t have to worry about the sheath and can remove it at some point down the road.

If you are spooling in under enough tension, it can't jump up on the layer that is guiding it over until it hits the side of the drum. The fairlead opening has always been narrower on any that I've seen.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bucky
What's the thoughts on washing / cleaning the rope. Since I speed time on dusty trails I pull the rope out once or twice a year and with a bucket of clean water I put the rope in the bucket a few feet at a time. I then hold it and push in towards each end to open it up and dunk it in the water a few times. Then afterwards I hose the entire line down with fresh water. Is this a good idea or just a waste of my time ?
 
  • Like
Reactions: TJ Starting and L J
What's the thoughts on washing / cleaning the rope. Since I speed time on dusty trails I pull the rope out once or twice a year and with a bucket of clean water I put the rope in the bucket a few feet at a time. I then hold it and push in towards each end to open it up and dunk it in the water a few times. Then afterwards I hose the entire line down with fresh water. Is this a good idea or just a waste of my time ?
1705475948698.jpeg


I threw mine in a pillow bag and went down to the local laundry.
 
I have to wash my tow straps because I’m usually pulling equipment out of the mud and they sometimes get caked with mud. I lay them on the driveway and hit them with the power washer then let them dry off before rolling them up and putting the in their storage bags.