For those that have used Eastwood Internal Frame Coating to encapsulate the inside of the frame; how many 14 oz cans (covers 10 sqft) to generously coat the entire frame ?
Internal frame rust with pictures
- Thread starter JC123
- Start date
I agree with @SSTJ Water will always find a way in the smallest of cracks. Better to get it out and have it dry out. When I replaced my frame in my Jeep in 2010, before I did anything, I turned the new frame over and drilled 5/8" holes in 4 locations at the bottom. I can clean out my frame at anytime and flush everything out. I don't drive mine in the winter. It's a fun toy for the other three seasons.
We did the same to my son's Jeep when he got his. The frame was very clean but he wanted to keep it for as long as he could. It is his daily driver. Every fall, we spray it down with Fluid Film. The frame still looks new inside after 5 years of daily driving.
My daughters Jeep had issues with the frame. The tub and everything else was immaculate. I brought it to Safe-T-Cap in RI and they cut out all the old cancer and replaced both side frame rails including the rear control arm mounts. They put on an undercoat. There are two holes on each side to let water out. I drilled two more and put a rust inhibitor inside the frame rails. When that flashed off and dried, I sprayed Fluid Film on it as well. We do it every fall.
Remember, when the weld on new pieces to a frame, the inside paint on the area where the old frame was gets burned off. The new metal does not have a coating so is bare. If moisture does get in there, it will rust quickly. Having holes to drain the water also allows you to put a wand up there and coat these areas.
BTW, @Adms01TJ, you're not far from me. I live between Wappingers Falls and Poughkeepsie.
We did the same to my son's Jeep when he got his. The frame was very clean but he wanted to keep it for as long as he could. It is his daily driver. Every fall, we spray it down with Fluid Film. The frame still looks new inside after 5 years of daily driving.
My daughters Jeep had issues with the frame. The tub and everything else was immaculate. I brought it to Safe-T-Cap in RI and they cut out all the old cancer and replaced both side frame rails including the rear control arm mounts. They put on an undercoat. There are two holes on each side to let water out. I drilled two more and put a rust inhibitor inside the frame rails. When that flashed off and dried, I sprayed Fluid Film on it as well. We do it every fall.
Remember, when the weld on new pieces to a frame, the inside paint on the area where the old frame was gets burned off. The new metal does not have a coating so is bare. If moisture does get in there, it will rust quickly. Having holes to drain the water also allows you to put a wand up there and coat these areas.
BTW, @Adms01TJ, you're not far from me. I live between Wappingers Falls and Poughkeepsie.
2-3 cans will cover it. I used 4 on my new frame when I first got it but I made sure that it had time to dry and flash off between coats. I also put on a top coat afterwards. I'm not sure I should have but it has not been an issue.
No way. If you're paying 3k, get it done at Auto Rust Technicians who will install full-length Safe T Caps and sandblast/undercoat for roughly that price.
Agree with access holes, they could be plugged with some type of rubber plug but removed periodically for inspection.
I used their torque box body mount repair channels last year on the Chili Pepper frame swap. Quality and service was excellent.
Pretty much the same here, I used 1 full can on the first coat in each rail with a slow deliberate advance of the nozzle then gave it time before taking a look with the camera, then I used a 1/2 can in each rail on the 2nd coat. The external received 2 solid coats of Eastwood extreme chassis black (love that stuff) I still have the 4th can new on the shelf.
When I had my daughter's Jeep done by Auto Rust Technicians (Safe-T-Cap), they cut out all the old cancer, sandblasted, welded in both frame rails with rear control arm brackets, and undercoated for $2,700 including taxes.
Interesting perspective. I'm thinking about this from a off road motorcycle perspective. I've been involved in multiple discussions on how to seal the air box from water, and it always comes down to water will always get in, how do you get it out. I've added extra drain hole to my frame, and put rubber plugs into to holes on the side of the frame in front of the rear tires.
Thanks for the info. That’s what concerns me with the way he fixes the frames, no way to in spect them.
Since your so close any chance I can meet up and take a look at the finished product? I have decided not to go the boxed frame restoration- if it ain’t broke don’t fix it! Safe t cap it is! Thank you all for your input it is greatly appreciated!
Adam
Since your so close any chance I can meet up and take a look at the finished product? I have decided not to go the boxed frame restoration- if it ain’t broke don’t fix it! Safe t cap it is! Thank you all for your input it is greatly appreciated!
Adam
I would not use the Eastwood coating inside a frame, regardless of what they call it. Once you use that stuff any rust that you didnt get can sit behind the seating and continue to rust away, out of sight until it gets through to the outside of the frame. Skip the coating an go straight to the cavity wax. It stays pliable so any frame flexing dosen't crack it and expose the frame like that coating does. And you can also continue to inspect inside the frame to see that the rust stays under control. The frame wax can continue to wick into tiny crevices long after it was applied unlike the coating. Frame wax is basically a Cosmoline product. And the military has used it for over a century. And the old rifles can be taken, cleaned up and be good as when they were put away.