Is it possible to make my tummy tuck completely flat?

T_Hase89

T_Hase89

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Question-

With a 1.25” BL and 1” MML, is it possible to go completely flat with a 241 T-Case without cutting into the tub? As in, can I take sheet steel or aluminum and bolt it up. Nothing hanging down.

Custom low profile transmission mount to be expected.

I just ordered the BL and MML stuff so it’s not installed to measure. Already have DC rear shaft and rear adjustable CAs. Just looking at the next step in the long expensive puzzle.
 
Not to my knowledge. I have a Nth Degree tummy tuck on a Rubicon. Had to dent the tub a bit to get it to fit just right and it's not flush. Not supposed to be with my kit. Even with a body lift, I've not seen one recessed. Doesn't mean you can't but I've not seen it. Haven't really looked too hard, though. 😁

Anything is possible with enough time and money.
 
Last edited:
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T_Hase89 said:
Question-

With a 1.25” BL and 1” MML, is it possible to go completely flat with a 241 T-Case without cutting into the tub? As in, can I take sheet steel or aluminum and bolt it up. Nothing hanging down.

Custom low profile transmission mount to be expected.

I just ordered the BL and MML stuff so it’s not installed to measure. Already have DC rear shaft and rear adjustable CAs. Just looking at the next step in the long expensive puzzle.
Click to expand...
It isn't possible if by flat you mean a flat sheet bolted up to the frame with no bends and no drop. You can get it very close though, but not full flat. You will have to do some tub massaging on the big part of the case on the left side where the trans tunnel transition is. I believe that the hardest part would be a lot easier if the seat mount were not directly above that area. If you smack the area a bit to see the dents under the seat, it is possible to take a small circle out of the backside of the seat mount vertical and then massage the tub up further and easier. That will get you closer to flat.

You need to be wary of getting the skid too close to the drop side of the t-case. Get it in a bind and tweak it over hard enough to contact the skid and that increases the likelihood of damaging the case.

Also be aware that when you get the skid up that high, you're gonna need to do some work on fitting the cat in there.
 
Not sure if this would work with the factory seat brackets. But cutting into the tub is an option for making room. You could fab some sheet metal to cover any floor modifications you make in the tub and it can come out looking really good IMO while allowing room for the trans and transfer case to come up away from the ground.
A pic for inspiration/motivation.

Anyone have thoughts on this? Why it may or may not work?
2C11C36E-518A-4F05-9E34-6FDF72BFE029.jpeg

Edit: I dont think the drivers seat mounts would not work with this.
 
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Fouledplugs said:
Not sure if this would work with the factory seat brackets. But cutting into the tub is an option for making room. You could fab some sheet metal to cover any floor modifications you make in the tub and it can come out looking really good IMO while allowing room for the trans and transfer case to come up away from the ground.
A pic for inspiration/motivation.

Anyone have thoughts on this? Why it may or may not work?
View attachment 133138
Edit: I dont think the drivers seat mounts would not work with this.
Click to expand...

@Chris asked about this possibility but without doing a body lift (which was not a good idea). That thread came up on some search I did just yesterday.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/tummy-tuck-without-body-lift-modifying-the-tunnel.7307/
 
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mrblaine said:
It isn't possible if by flat you mean a flat sheet bolted up to the frame with no bends and no drop. You can get it very close though, but not full flat. You will have to do some tub massaging on the big part of the case on the left side where the trans tunnel transition is. I believe that the hardest part would be a lot easier if the seat mount were not directly above that area. If you smack the area a bit to see the dents under the seat, it is possible to take a small circle out of the backside of the seat mount vertical and then massage the tub up further and easier. That will get you closer to flat.

You need to be wary of getting the skid too close to the drop side of the t-case. Get it in a bind and tweak it over hard enough to contact the skid and that increases the likelihood of damaging the case.

Also be aware that when you get the skid up that high, you're gonna need to do some work on fitting the cat in there.
Click to expand...

Thanks Blaine. Yes, I was imagining a completely flat sheet bolted to the frame. I am not against cutting the floor and doing something similar to what @Fouledplugs posted above in the picture. Do I need to do this, no, absolutely not. But I also like playing around and being new to the TJ world (and it's not a low mile beauty queen), I might give it a shot. I'll get the BL and MML installed in the next few weeks and start taking some measurements and looking at points of conflict that you mentioned and get a feel for what needs to be done.
 
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T_Hase89 said:
Thanks Blaine. Yes, I was imagining a completely flat sheet bolted to the frame. I am not against cutting the floor and doing something similar to what @Fouledplugs posted above in the picture. Do I need to do this, no, absolutely not. But I also like playing around and being new to the TJ world (and it's not a low mile beauty queen), I might give it a shot. I'll get the BL and MML installed in the next few weeks and start taking some measurements and looking at points of conflict that you mentioned and get a feel for what needs to be done.
Click to expand...
Get the Savvy UAM if you’re interested in getting as flat as possible. It only dips slightly in the center. Of course, you may just be wanting to DIY.

https://savvyoffroad.com/product/uam-late/
 
JMT said:
Get the Savvy UAM if you’re interested in getting as flat as possible. It only dips slightly in the center. Of course, you may just be wanting to DIY.

https://savvyoffroad.com/product/uam-late/
Click to expand...

That’s my backup plan. I like the savvy setup more than the rest I’ve looked at. I’ll know more once I get the BL/MML on and review it. I know it’s just a skid plate but I love fabricating. I’ve done many projects in my automotive manufacturing career but nothing for a personal vehicle build.

My bucket list learning item this year is welding aluminum. I’ve only done it a few times and it was over a decade ago.
 
T_Hase89 said:
That’s my backup plan. I like the savvy setup more than the rest I’ve looked at. I’ll know more once I get the BL/MML on and review it. I know it’s just a skid plate but I love fabricating. I’ve done many projects in my automotive manufacturing career but nothing for a personal vehicle build.

My bucket list learning item this year is welding aluminum. I’ve only done it a few times and it was over a decade ago.
Click to expand...
Build it yourself.

https://genright.com/products/universal-transmission-crossmember-kit.html
D562B694-D088-46CC-A8F1-326A2F0D92F9.jpeg
C881282B-7C72-493C-B768-FD65A2B45558.jpeg
F4691A8B-A0E5-4F7D-8F80-5AC05F09C618.jpeg
 
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T_Hase89 said:
Thanks Blaine. Yes, I was imagining a completely flat sheet bolted to the frame. I am not against cutting the floor and doing something similar to what @Fouledplugs posted above in the picture. Do I need to do this, no, absolutely not. But I also like playing around and being new to the TJ world (and it's not a low mile beauty queen), I might give it a shot. I'll get the BL and MML installed in the next few weeks and start taking some measurements and looking at points of conflict that you mentioned and get a feel for what needs to be done.
Click to expand...
You didn't mention year and trans. If you have the 42RLE, you'll be as disgusted as I am after you do all of that work only to find the trans pan still hangs lower than the belly skid. It is possible to beat the crap out of the pinch weld at the firewall over the bellhousing and raise the trans higher but that's a ton of bullshit for something that can be covered with an engine skid and spaced down slightly off of the belly skid.
 
Gonna be pretty hard to get completely flat like others said. My tummy tuck has a 1/2" drop. The 241 still contacts in one spot (need to massage a bit more). I have a 1.25" BL and TMR cross member
 
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My
mrblaine said:
You didn't mention year and trans. If you have the 42RLE, you'll be as disgusted as I am after you do all of that work only to find the trans pan still hangs lower than the belly skid. It is possible to beat the crap out of the pinch weld at the firewall over the bellhousing and raise the trans higher but that's a ton of bullshit for something that can be covered with an engine skid and spaced down slightly off of the belly skid.
Click to expand...

Mines a 4.0 - 3550 - 241 (04 Manual Rubicon)
 
Just to let you all know, I haven’t given up on this yet. Savvy BL was on back order and was suppose to be back in stock on the 10th so hopefully I get a shipping notice soon
 
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