Is my slave cylinder fried?

scottgraham

scottgraham

Just another bad habit
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Sitting in parking lot getting my kids stuff for "virtual learning". Had the clutch pressed the whole time I was there, when I went to put it gear, it wouldn't shift.
Luckily I did the clutch safety switch mod and was able to start it in 1st and drive home in first.
There were only about four drops of fluid in the parking lot, I'm assuming they were from me.
I've let it cool down and just got under it, it looks like a few drips under the slave, but skidplate isn't covered w/ it and the master looks okay on fluid.
Or is it that stupid TOB spring?
Any advise is appreciated before I tear into it.
 
...Or a link to test, I've only delt w/ cables on VW rail buggies and bikes. I'm assuming I pull out the slave, push the pedal and if nothing happens it's shot?
 
What happens when you push down on the clutch? If there is no or little resistance, it's almost certainly the master/slave cylinder.

Replacing them both is very easy; you just buy one complete unit that comes pre-bled.
 
So my experience: Yes there are only four bolts/ nuts, seems pretty cut and dried. No, it's not. The problem lies in getting the hat/cap/ master cylinder rod retaining clip off. I had to take the snap ring off which in turn allowed brake fluid to pour out onto paint. I had to use a grinder to cut the retainer off (tried putting picks in to stretch the clamp, didn't work). After I ground the retainer, everything was good. This may differ from other peoples' experience, but this is what I had to go through. Just an FYI.
@Chris I don't know if this worth moving to the resource thread or not, your call.

IMG_1164.jpg


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Im confused. Every time I've changed the hydraulic system I just popped the rod off the clutch pedal assembly, removed the clutch switch and slid the whole master/rod out.
 
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The clutch safety start switch is attached (on mine, anyway) so the old rod has to come out of the master to get that off. Which I have disabled anyway, so I should have just cut the wires, but it was more about the challenge :LOL:.

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squeeze those little clips together and slide the white retainer off and then the clutch switch can be removed.
 
I was referring to removing the clutch switch. You shouldn't have to mess with that top hat looking thing.
 
The switch doesn't slide off. You remove that white retainer and then you can compress the spring on the clutch switch and pivot it off the rod.

The white piece you circled in post 9 comes off the clutch switch.
 
I haven't been able to find a LuK assembly for a 2005. Rock Auto has a couple of other brands prebled, in stock, and competitively priced. Does anybody know anything about them?

$93.79 PLATINUM DRIVELINE PSC01195
$94.79 PERFECTION CLUTCH PF9088 (#52107652AM)
 
How did y’all get the pedal assembly off? I have everything disconnected and all nuts off that hold the assembly. It gets itself in a bind on the studs and I can’t figure out how to pull the assembly off. Damn weld on the clutch pedal broke and I can’t weld in there upside down.
 
Danielfnc said:
How did y’all get the pedal assembly off? I have everything disconnected and all nuts off that hold the assembly. It gets itself in a bind on the studs and I can’t figure out how to pull the assembly off. Damn weld on the clutch pedal broke and I can’t weld in there upside down.
Click to expand...
Nevermind. I’m an idiot. Figured it out.
 
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