Is there an issue with this tie rod end?

rdu-jeep

rdu-jeep

TJ Enthusiast
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Jul 14, 2019
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115
Location
Raleigh, NC
I just replaced tie rods, track bar, drag link with all new Moog parts as talked about on this forum.
When torqued at 55 ft lbs the driver's side tie rod nut is past the hole in the bolt where the cotter pin isn't seated in the castle nut, it's above it.
The passenger's side tie rod nut seems OK.
I have removed and re-torqued and it is the same.
It appears the driver's side tie rod is closer to the knuckle, and the boot is squished/bloated.

Does this look OK to yall?

DRIVER SIDE
PXL_20210918_195702663.jpg


PASSENGER SIDE
PXL_20210918_195713281.jpg
 
I had that happen on the upper ball joints of my 2005 Dodge Ram. They were even a decent brand name, as if that means anything these days. I just went to the hardware store and bought some heavy washers to take up that space. I think they were called machine washers, unfortunately the thicker ones were out of stock so it took two on each side to take up the space.

I wonder how much $$$ they save by using a little less metal.
 
If it were mine I'd just compare the two new joints off the Jeep and the problem will be obvious, my guess is the joint is garbage. You can also swap the joint to the other side to see if you need a new joint or hub. At least that avoids guesswork or throwing parts at the situation. Sorry if this is obvious but nobody really said it clearly.

Edit: also possible the hole is simply drilled high on the generic rod end to account for different castle nuts, that is the "universal" threaded rod end?
 
Good points here, thanks for the feedback everyone. I'll have to take it back apart after my beach trip and see how another tie rod end fits.

I really hope I don't need a new knuckle, I just got done with ball joints last week.
 
Superjay5 said:
My concern would be the taper in your knuckle is worn out, or the taper on the new end is out of spec.
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If OP replaced it shouldn't be worn out, guess it could be out of spec. I had similar issue when i replaced all the parts on our 01 TJ, went with the ZJ conversion, so i backed the torque off so the pin went through the castle nut. Isn't that the point of the castle but afterall?

Guess I'll have to find time to check it out and see if all is OK. It's been a few months now.

Depending on what others say, i think I'd back the torque off and see what happens.
 
grabeb said:
If OP replaced it shouldn't be worn out, guess it could be out of spec. I had similar issue when i replaced all the parts on our 01 TJ, went with the ZJ conversion, so i backed the torque off so the pin went through the castle nut. Isn't that the point of the castle but afterall?

Guess I'll have to find time to check it out and see if all is OK. It's been a few months now.

Depending on what others say, i think I'd back the torque off and see what happens.
Click to expand...
The tie rod end is tapered and fits in a tapered hole, it should be torqued to spec to insure a proper fit. If it’s loose it’s will wallow out the taper in the knuckle. If the new tie rod end is out of spec it won’t fit in the taper correctly, in OP’s case it’s sitting too low in the knuckle.
 
rdu-jeep said:
I am still using stock knuckle, only replaced everything else around it lol
Click to expand...
Sorry, thought i read you replaced. Guess i missed that, it's clear when i look again. IMO.... that boot is too squashed and that pin should go through the nut. It's too tight. Hmmm
 
Superjay5 said:
The tie rod end is tapered and fits in a tapered hole, it should be torqued to spec to insure a proper fit. If it’s loose it’s will wallow out the taper in the knuckle. If the new tie rod end is out of spec it won’t fit in the taper correctly, in OP’s case it’s sitting too low in the knuckle.
Click to expand...
Yeah, but it can be a few lbs too much and not line up. Then I've always been led to believe you back it off a little.... well stop short of spec if it lines up. I can't recall on mine, but i had to stop short to keep it in the nut. It felt tight!.
 
grabeb said:
Yeah, but it can be a few lbs too much and not line up. Then I've always been led to believe you back it off a little.... well stop short of spec if it lines up. I can't recall on mine, but i had to stop short to keep it in the nut. It felt tight!.
Click to expand...
Sure, if you have to back it off a 1/4” inch to line up with the castle nut. In this case the cotter pin is way off from the castle nut, he would have to back it off a lot, which would make that taper a very loose fitting.
 
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The hole too high is very different from the hole not in alignment with the castle. I hope that is clear, this thread really isn't about aligning the hole with the notch in the castle nut. The hole is above the nut in this situation.
 
pagrey said:
The hole too high is very different from the hole not in alignment with the castle. I hope that is clear, this thread really isn't about aligning the hole with the notch in the castle nut. The hole is above the nut in this situation.
Click to expand...
I get that and i recall having that issue as well. Something wasn't adding up for me either, so i backed up and had to redo. Maybe I'm too loose, but it felt tight and it's been two months so i can't recall which joint it was. I'll look at it again soon.

Obviously too loose isn't good, but neither is too tight. That boot shouldn't be that squashed either. So adding washers isn't the fix IMO, but the pin does need to go through the nut.

I thought i read he mentioned 55lbs, but it appears that connection is 35. I guess that's now the question. Also, you certain your torque wrench is correct? I've also read moog quality isn't as good as it used to be, so there's that question as well.
 
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