Is there something wrong with my Savvy under armor parts?

Could show him the way to put it on the frame and ditch most of that piece too.
Are you able to weld @HornedToad ?
Yes. I actually built a crossmember on my old lj that mounted to frame welded brackets. I did that since I had a manual and could therefore tuck it totally flat. My tj has an auto so the savvy UA made more sense. The plan is to eventually do that to accommodate genright raised body mounts but that is a long ways out. I have several other projects I need to tackle first to get back on the road.
 
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Can’t help with the fitment but if I was installing those pieces I would smear a healthy coat of grease on the inside of the brackets where they contact the frame to keep rust at bay.
 
I don’t think there is enough material there. Savvy got back to me and they are sending replacements.
ok, so this begs the question; does Savvy make two different outer C's? That makes no sense to me that they would.
 
Can’t help with the fitment but if I was installing those pieces I would smear a healthy coat of grease on the inside of the brackets where they contact the frame to keep rust at bay.
I know you already have other brackets coming from Savvy, but I re-looked at your photo and a drift would pull the holes in line.
 
The operator does what he is told. Generally they will use a common die which is what they did. That is a standard bend radius unless specified which in this case it is.
He should have got a clue when the overall dimensions of the flanges didn't match the print.
 
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ok, so this begs the question; does Savvy make two different outer C's? That makes no sense to me that they would.
no, i think Blaine tagged it. that bend is what's holdin the holes just shy, had it been correct it'd be there, that being bent that hard also is the cause of the C brackets BF (between frame) measurement being narrow

i wish i had my old 1 to compare and see if was the same problem then......... i cut them to use on the frame. to try and tug all that into place might be possible, but a PITA no doubt, you'd almost have to bash the corners and get some radius to open and allow the form to open as well. then pull the top and bottom ends back to a usable position.
 
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no, i think Blaine tagged it. that bend is what's holdin the holes just shy, had it been correct it'd be there, that being bent that hard also is the cause of the C brackets BF (between frame) measurement being narrow

i wish i had my old 1 to compare and see if was the same problem then......... i cut them to use on the frame. to try and tug all that into place might be possible, but a PITA no doubt, you'd almost have to bash the corners and get some radius to open and allow the form to open as well. then pull the top and bottom ends back to a usable position.
I was told by blaine to use a drift and get the outer C on as far as possible (i.e. could be described as 'bash').

One day I will get rid of that outer C when I raise the mounts.

What do you mean you think Blaine tagged it?
 
no, i think Blaine tagged it. that bend is what's holdin the holes just shy, had it been correct it'd be there, that being bent that hard also is the cause of the C brackets BF (between frame) measurement being narrow

i wish i had my old 1 to compare and see if was the same problem then......... i cut them to use on the frame. to try and tug all that into place might be possible, but a PITA no doubt, you'd almost have to bash the corners and get some radius to open and allow the form to open as well. then pull the top and bottom ends back to a usable position.
I thought about heating the bends up with a torch and then beating on them while on the frame but since they are painted now I didn’t want to go through all the trouble of stripping them back down to bare metal. If it came down to that it would probably work but it would be ugly.
 
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What do you mean you think Blaine tagged it?
post #11. he caught the sharp bend quick. those hard bends are the culprit.
I thought about heating the bends up with a torch and then beating on them while on the frame but since they are painted now I didn’t want to go through all the trouble of stripping them back down to bare metal. If it came down to that it would probably work but it would be ugly.
ya, you got a hold of them quick, i'd wait for the right parts.
 
Just got home and checked my uninstalled savvy under armor. I think I have the same problem with my outer c’s. Looks like a hard 90 bend to me.
F83AC548-7E9D-4869-A70C-159F8C9B0125.jpeg

I put this one on the frame in front of the factory skid tho better see the difference in the bend.
3936FE6A-E5AD-4259-9BFF-9B31A1213796.jpeg
 
Just got home and checked my uninstalled savvy under armor. I think I have the same problem with my outer c’s. Looks like a hard 90 bend to me.
View attachment 304891
I put this one on the frame in front of the factory skid tho better see the difference in the bend.
View attachment 304892
Yup, looks like you're headed for the same wrestling match with those.
 
if the parts fits over the frame and lays flat against it and you can get bolts into it, the bend is moot . if you cant get it together then it's a problem.

post 33 looks upside down but it's flat to the frame, if the inner brackets can be bolted on it's not wrong enough to worry about.
 
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if the parts fits over the frame and lays flat against it and you can get bolts into it, the bend is moot . if you cant get it together then it's a problem.

post 33 looks upside down but it's flat to the frame, if the inner brackets can be bolted on it's not wrong enough to worry about.
Yes I had the bracket upside down in that picture I just slipped the bracket onto the frame in front of the factory skid to check the bend radius.
 
I received my new outer brackets from Savvy you can clearly see the difference. Thanks @mrblaine for pointing out the problem and @HornedToad for asking the question. Michael at Savvy was responsive to my email an I had shipping confirmation within a day great customer service. This is why it pays to buy from small companies that build things in America.
0F774822-6B57-44EC-A54B-055E9EBC2AAD.jpeg