Hope this is the right place to ask the question. I am kind of new to the newer jeeps, I am more familiar with the 1940s through 80s lol anyway looking at buying this 2005 LJ, said he would go 23k on it. With the mods and stuff he has is it worth the money or can I get something similar for less money without the half cab hard top? Also how do the Auto transmissions hold up in these? I don't like the idea of an auto but can live with it for the right jeep if they are good. has 81k miles 4 inch lift, electric steps, warn bumpers and winch, led lights, and lockers. Let me know what you all think, thanks
Is this LJ Rubicon worth the money?
- Thread starter 1945GPW
- Start date
Is it from an area that salts roads? Frame rust must be your top concern. If you can get pictures of the frame we can help. Pictures around the side body mounts, TC skid plate mounting bolts, fuel tank and the areas where the lower control arms attach to the frame would be helpful.
The LJ Rubicon is sort of the unicorn of the Jeep world, so it could be worth around that much depending on it's condition.
If the frame is rust free and he has the original hard top as well, then yeah, I would say it's worth 23k. But it's got to be 99% rust free to be worth that price IMHO.
Clean, rust free, and low mileage LJ Rubicons can easily go for 30k, sometimes more. The keyword there though is "rust free".
Clean, rust free, and low mileage LJ Rubicons can easily go for 30k, sometimes more. The keyword there though is "rust free".
The seller said it is rust free inside and out. Obviously I will inspect the Jeep completely for that before I move forward. He said that when the rubitrux conversion was done it was repainted the orange color. I will inspect that as well to see if it was done professionally or not.
The 42RLE auto transmission is fine, I've owned plenty of them. I always suggest the Derale transmission cooler for the automatics, as it makes them last a lot longer, and it's a cheap, and very wise upgrade. But other than that, they don't have any major issues with them.
A lot of people are really good at hiding rust. I would tap around on the frame in the areas I mentioned and see if it's been painted over. Also look for frame patches.
The overdrive gear (4th gear) on the late model autos (03'-06') is pretty tall unless the axle gearing has been changed to match the larger tires. That's something I would want to know. The 97-02' jeeps came with a 3 speed auto which has a very good reputation. I personally prefer the manual transmissions in a jeep but that's just personal preference. What do you want to do with your jeep? Is a back seat and taking more than one passenger with you important? I love the color but would pass on the half cab myself. I just think a normal LJ or TJ would be more practical to use.
I will definitely look all under it for rust, patches, cracks or repairs. Thanks for the quick reply’s guys!! Anything else to look out for? Seller said he drives it on the hwy and that’s about it, took it off road once or twice I think.
Does it have any vibrations on the hwy? Vibrations would show a possible suspension problem. Do you know what kind of lift is in it, meaning maker?
Also make sure both the lockers are operational, those could be very expensive repairs.
Also make sure both the lockers are operational, those could be very expensive repairs.
Last edited:
Rust is the biggest threat to a TJ/LJ. Literally, take a ball peen hammer with you and tap everywhere under the frame (especially in the area of the frame right above the T-case skid plate). TJ/LJs are pretty easy to work on by todays standards. So most things can be fixed if you have some mechanical aptitude and desire.
My long term goal is r2.8 Cummins conversion with manual transmission. I like the look of the half cab but would probably get a full hard top for camping and off-roading. So yeah wondering if I could get the same Jeep without the half cab cheaper. He has front and rear 5.13 ring and pinion install kits but they aren’t installed yet
Make sure the lockers work, make sure the rear in particular isn't making any odd noises. Look inside the frame holes on the rear dog leg for internal frame rust as they rot from the inside out. Make sure you check those body mount locations on the torque boxes. Again look inside with a light and feel around for rust in every opening you can.
—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
—
There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
So what gearing is in it now? Is it a pig with that size tire? The gear swap won't be cheap and many shops won't install your gears, but if they do they probably won't warranty them.
As far as finding an LJR is like i said like finding a unicorn, so if it's an LJR you want, see if you can make this one work or you may wait years for another one.
As far as finding an LJR is like i said like finding a unicorn, so if it's an LJR you want, see if you can make this one work or you may wait years for another one.
Starrs
TJ Guru
23k can buy you a pretty nice TJR with a nice backseat and hard top. I’m not a fan of the conversions, but if you like them that’s all that matters. Rust is the name of the game. If there isn’t any these things cost a crap ton. I would look for a full bodied LJ if you want the longer wheelbase. Just my opinion.
The half cab and the electric steps are not mods that appeal to everyone, so you are the one who has to decide if they'll work for you. You will have to add labor cost to the selling price to install the gears, but as was said, not all shops will warranty gear sets they don't supply.
As an "older" guy that has an "older" gal...the electric steps actually appeal to me. But on this particular Jeep, not much else does. Just not liking the conversion...
But I'm not the one buying it. Good luck with the inspection...Hope it works out for you... Just make sure the build and the paint work was done right. For $23k they are asking a premium for their mods...so you should expect premium work...
The current owner clearly spent money upgrading this LJ and is asking a high price, IMHO. Yes, some Rubicons(Rubiharas) fetch high $20k, but considering you want a manual, and do not like the conversion, you should pass and pay a premium for the LJR you want. To convert back, including buying a new hardtop will run you about $2k, plus a backseat and a manual tranny. If you plan to drop an a new engine, then no need to pay premium for low mileage.
I would punt on this one and check out ebay and also craigslist. This is a big purchase so keep hunting around.
Here is a 2004 manual with hardtop for $13.9k.
https://nwga.craigslist.org/ctd/d/2004-jeep-wrangler-rubiconall/6525670924.html
I think you are from Tenn, and here is a Rubihara for $15k. Hardtop, but automatic.
https://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/d/jeep-lj-rubicon-sahara/6489898007.html
Another Rubihara, manual, hardtop, 43k miles and built for offroading.
https://okaloosa.craigslist.org/cto/d/2005-jeep-wrangler-unlimited/6519757301.html
Watch out for posers! People actually put a Rubicon sticker on the hood when it isn't a Rubicon...
https://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/d/2004-jeep-wrangler-unlimited/6524085256.html
I would punt on this one and check out ebay and also craigslist. This is a big purchase so keep hunting around.
Here is a 2004 manual with hardtop for $13.9k.
https://nwga.craigslist.org/ctd/d/2004-jeep-wrangler-rubiconall/6525670924.html
I think you are from Tenn, and here is a Rubihara for $15k. Hardtop, but automatic.
https://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/d/jeep-lj-rubicon-sahara/6489898007.html
Another Rubihara, manual, hardtop, 43k miles and built for offroading.
https://okaloosa.craigslist.org/cto/d/2005-jeep-wrangler-unlimited/6519757301.html
Watch out for posers! People actually put a Rubicon sticker on the hood when it isn't a Rubicon...
https://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/d/2004-jeep-wrangler-unlimited/6524085256.html