It just happened!

Looks great!

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Haven't been able to do much on the Jeep lately, but I did have a little time today to install the license plate light @mrblaine sent. As is the case with everything he does, the parts and hardware are 1st class. Hopefully, I didn't screw up the install!

FWIW, one thing I noticed was the light provided very even illumination across the entire plate.

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Okay folks, looking for a little advice here. I'm now at a point where driving the LJ isn't pleasant, for three primary reasons:

Issue #1 - The ride is what I'd call extremely soft. So much so that the only thing I can compare it to would be driving a 1970s Cadillac. I've now swapped in 3 sets of shocks, BlackMax, Rubicon Express, and Bilstein 5100s. Regardless of which shock I use the ride stays virtually identical, i.e., the Jeep seems to "float" down the road. FWIW, I'm running new RockJock 3" springs, but plan to move to 4" soon. The fronts are CE-9133F and the rears are CE-9131RH1P.

Issue #2 -The steering seems to easily wander left to right and vice versa. I'm constantly rocking the steering back and fourth to keep it centered in the lane. All the components are new, with the exception of the Ball Joints. I did check those for any movement and didn't see anything abnormal. Alignment wise, I did my own, which I've done multiple times in the past.

Issue #3 - With heavier 35" tires and wheels, the brakes are not sufficient to stop the Jeep safely. This latter one has me less concerned, because I'll just end up ordering a BBK from Blaine. The only thing I need more information on is what the primary difference is between the 16" and Super 16" kit.

That said, for issue #1 and #2, I've checked all the normal stuff, including tire pressure, loose components, alignment, etc. Any thoughts are appreciated!
 
Issue #3 - With heavier 35" tires and wheels, the brakes are not sufficient to stop the Jeep safely. This latter one has me less concerned, because I'll just end up ordering a BBK from Blaine. The only thing I need more information on is what the primary difference is between the 16" and Super 16" kit.
16" kit
12.01" diameter rotor
Dual 48mm piston caliper

Super 16
12.27 diameter rotor
Dual 54mm piston caliper

The 54mm caliper is a more rigid caliper design due to being from the front of a 2008+ Ram 1500 and works far better than even the caliper from a 2005 Dodge 1500.
It has to be run with a larger master.
Pad area is much bigger.

The 16" kit is for Explorer size vehicle and perfect for 35's, the Super 16 is for extra heavy rigs on 35's and 37's.
 
I need to get a digital gauge, but measuring from the flat spot on the bottom of the lower ball joint I'm at 5° to 5.5°.
That is plenty if you are getting a good read-

Gearbox ok?

And shaft bearing? We found those finally.
 
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Re #1 How much does the LJ weigh now?
Re #2 If caster and toe and tires (pressure and tread wear) are good, then I think about “memory steer” which is a term I’ve heard referring to poor on center stability due to excessively tight steering components. I had this problem with Carli ball joints on my Dodge pickup. I know its weird because loose ball joints can cause steering issues as well. Either way; ball joints?
 
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Re #1 How much does the LJ weigh now?
Re #2 If caster and toe and tires (pressure and tread wear) are good, then I think about “memory steer” which is a term I’ve heard referring to poor on center stability due to excessively tight steering components. I had this problem with Carli ball joints on my Dodge pickup. I know its weird because loose ball joints can cause steering issues as well. Either way; ball joints?

I had a front end on my truck done a while back and it came out of the shop too tight- It was one of the scariest things I’ve ever experienced- It was unable to return to Center and “locked” wherever you had the wheel at any time-

It was fixable but not fun. I really didn’t know what was going on at first.
 
I had a front end on my truck done a while back and it came out of the shop too tight- It was one of the scariest things I’ve ever experienced- It was unable to return to Center and “locked” wherever you had the wheel at any time-

It was fixable but not fun. I really didn’t know what was going on at first.

Mine sounds like it was more subtle. But highly annoying. It took me forever to figure it out. The fix for me was pull the Carli ball joints and replace with stock style joints.
 
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I don't recall all your latest upgrades but if you haven't had a laser alignment after suspension upgrades, I recommend getting it done by the pros. I kept trying to use all the tape measurement methods mentioned on this forum and yet my Jeep was a terror to drive.

My local dealership lifts Jeeps so I took it to them for a laser alignment. —> The Jeep was on rails driving it home. Crazy nimble that I'm still trying to get comfortable with after the terror rides I had after each 'at home' alignment I tried.

Any local shop that modified trucks, Jeeps, etc. should be able to do a good laser alignment. I wouldn't take a modified Jeep to just any shop for alignment - pick one that modifies larger vehicles.
 
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I don't recall all your latest upgrades but if you haven't had a laser alignment after suspension upgrades, I recommend getting it done by the pros. I kept trying to use all the tape measurement methods mentioned on this forum and yet my Jeep was a terror to drive.

My local dealership lifts Jeeps so I took it to them for a laser alignment. —> The Jeep was on rails driving it home. Crazy nimble that I'm still trying to get comfortable with after the terror rides I had after each 'at home' alignment I tried.

Any local shop that modified trucks, Jeeps, etc. should be able to do a good laser alignment. I wouldn't take a modified Jeep to just any shop for alignment - pick one that modifies larger vehicles.

He has a point- never hurts to get your work checked.

At the same time, don’t study for a urine test.
 
Re #1 How much does the LJ weigh now?
Re #2 If caster and toe and tires (pressure and tread wear) are good, then I think about “memory steer” which is a term I’ve heard referring to poor on center stability due to excessively tight steering components. I had this problem with Carli ball joints on my Dodge pickup. I know its weird because loose ball joints can cause steering issues as well. Either way; ball joints?

The other way to think about "memory" steer is the breakaway torque is way too high on the pins in the balljoint body when they are loaded. What happens is the torque or force to move them rotationally is way too high but drops very low once they move. That leads to very wonky steering in that as soon as they move, you've steered too far and have to pull it back. The problem is when it comes back, it stops, the force goes back up to move it again, apply high force, it drops off when it moves, so you rinse and repeat with a very exhausting to drive steering set up.

Loose ball joints only cause steering issues if they induce DW, the rest of the time, all they create is a very slight vagueness and maybe some very slight wandering.
 
Issue #2 -The steering seems to easily wander left to right and vice versa. I'm constantly rocking the steering back and fourth to keep it centered in the lane. All the components are new, with the exception of the Ball Joints. I did check those for any movement and didn't see anything abnormal. Alignment wise, I did my own, which I've done multiple times in the past.
Before you get carried away, do a test on a straight road without much camber. Try to drive it straight with the steering wheel on center. Pay attention to it not wanting to be centered as in as soon as it gets to center, it pops over ever so slightly to either side requiring constant correction because you can't drive it with the steering wheel centered.
 
Here is a stupid thought,

Have you checked the steering stabilizer to make sure the rod doesn't have a slight bend in it.

Had a super duty that did that and drove me nuts till I had my Dad turn the wheel while I was under it watching. The rod was bent ever so much and would hinder steering.