Jeep running rough and stalling when driving

Thank you so much for all the updates. I am currently having the same issue you were. It started out as high idle, so I cleaned out the throttle body and sensors. While I was at it I figured I change out the spark plugs too. Well the high idle issue went away and soon after the bucking, stalling and rough idle started. I started to suspect the spark plugs as being the issue. I used Autolite. I will nw replace them with NGK this weekend and see if that is my problem.

I will update the thread,

Again thanks for the detailed updates

No problem, glad to be able to help someone. Was a terribly frustrating ordeal and a difficult problem to narrow down. Best of luck with your Jeep.
 
No problem, glad to be able to help someone. Was a terribly frustrating ordeal and a difficult problem to narrow down. Best of luck with your Jeep.
Well swapped out the Autolite plugs for NGK and replaced the PCV valve. Still had the same issue. Decided to pull the throttle body apart and clean it and replaced IAC. Problem solved. Jeeps runs good again. Thanks
 
B
Well swapped out the Autolite plugs for NGK and replaced the PCV valve. Still had the same issue. Decided to pull the throttle body apart and clean it and replaced IAC. Problem solved. Jeeps runs good again. Thanks

Glad you were able to fix it, best feeling!
 
Fixed it. I had very similar issues to Beavis with my 2005 Jeep Wrangler x, 4.0 with 150k miles. Note, for about the last year the Jeep would cut out when I reached around 2500 rmp's, and this also killed my cruise control. I didn't worry to much about it because I never purposely exceeded 2500 rpm's on my 8 mile drive to work. Had codes P0344 (camshaft position sensor) and P0016 (crankshaft position sensor). Started out cheap, changed PCV valve, changed spark plugs (120k on these plugs), changed Camshaft position sensor, Changed crankshaft position sensor. Ran codes again and think it had P0123 (Generic something with throttle). I did everything in the order I listed above. I noticed when I changed the plugs, plug 1 and 6 appeared to be wet or fouled but I carried on. When the above actions did not fix the problem I decided to remove the ignition coil pack and plugs again. Again plugs 1 and 6 appeared to be wet. Decided to check fire the redneck way and with the coil pack removed I installed the plugs into the coil pack. Using a piece of awg 14 wire I connected one end to the chassis ground and the other end to the spark plug ground and had my wife turn the engine over. Plugs 1 and 6 did not fire while the others did. I did get bit a couple times but wasn't bad. Bought a new ignition coil pack and problem is now fixed. Prior to buying the new coil i performed resistance checks across everything I could on the coil. The one anomaly I found was that when checking the resistance from the coil to the pins that connect to the PCM, plugs 1 and 6 measured between 14k and 20k ohm from coil to all four pins on the PCM connection. All others measured infinite back to the PCM connection. Hope this helps someone.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mikespine
Hi friends! My 4.0 TJ (2001, built 2000 for export, one central Cat, Auto, 3 gear, aprox 40 Miles) is giving me a hard time.

Bought it 3 years ago and use it for short trips, weekend rides. A few months ago had a complete transmission oil change (was very dark / old as the garage told me) and also had to fix my leaking radiator. Also installed a new water pump. All OEM.

THAN >>> It used to run nicely. Two weeks after I noticed it was loosing power when I gave real gas, first impressions as if transmission was “slipping”. Than I understood it was loosing motor power, not transmission… even heard some bangs and “knocks” in front / passenger side. Not so loud.

When I start it (takes 3 seconds, two times) it works beautifully. When I get it moving and put gas on it than pops and bangs will happen, have no real power, even not going fast. If I go stepping in a very smooth way it will be much better, gaining momentum. Also when I KEEP it in first gear it will do the job, even giving real gas. If I put in drive and step on it… real bad power again.

I have changed coil rack, all spark plugs (ngks), all 2 O2 sensors (ntks) and new TPS. Removed and gently cleaned MAP, IAT and IAC. Can rear all injectors working fine (constant nice ticking), no cracks there.

Discovered that the gas pump is allways on! Previous owner probably had anti-theft removed, inspecting I discovered a side black wire that is probably grounding it always (still there).

Last info: no codes or CEL, only once / twice it gave me P 304.

Which direction should I take next? Gas pump pressure test?

Thanks for all the usefull help and information. Rgds Luiz
I live in Brazil
 
Hi friends! My 4.0 TJ (2001, built 2000 for export, one central Cat, Auto, 3 gear, aprox 40 Miles) is giving me a hard time.

Bought it 3 years ago and use it for short trips, weekend rides. A few months ago had a complete transmission oil change (was very dark / old as the garage told me) and also had to fix my leaking radiator. Also installed a new water pump. All OEM.

THAN >>> It used to run nicely. Two weeks after I noticed it was loosing power when I gave real gas, first impressions as if transmission was “slipping”. Than I understood it was loosing motor power, not transmission… even heard some bangs and “knocks” in front / passenger side. Not so loud.

When I start it (takes 3 seconds, two times) it works beautifully. When I get it moving and put gas on it than pops and bangs will happen, have no real power, even not going fast. If I go stepping in a very smooth way it will be much better, gaining momentum. Also when I KEEP it in first gear it will do the job, even giving real gas. If I put in drive and step on it… real bad power again.

I have changed coil rack, all spark plugs (ngks), all 2 O2 sensors (ntks) and new TPS. Removed and gently cleaned MAP, IAT and IAC. Can rear all injectors working fine (constant nice ticking), no cracks there.

Discovered that the gas pump is allways on! Previous owner probably had anti-theft removed, inspecting I discovered a side black wire that is probably grounding it always (still there).

Last info: no codes or CEL, only once / twice it gave me P 304.

Which direction should I take next? Gas pump pressure test?

Thanks for all the usefull help and information. Rgds Luiz
I live in Brazil

Lcardia

My scenario was :
•Lost engine power at 90 km/h
• idle rpm perfect, but as soon as I stepped on gas pedal, the engine would sputter and not gain rpm
• towed home, disconnected exhaust pipes upstream of Catalitic converters and now I was able to rev the engine
• long story short : collapsed catalytic converters restricting exhaust flow
• hope this helps

DETOUR
~•llllll•~👋🏿

Dawson Creek,BC
Canada 🇨🇦

•Mile zero Alaska highway•
 
Tks Detour. I ll check it, but as far as I could notice exhaust seems free. Will verify again.

I had TPS replaced twice with similar intermittent issues (over the course of approximately 40’000 km)
• that’s before I pulled the engine for my project “spark plug delete” 😉

Keep us posted what ya find out

Take care