Stalling when at running temp

Jerry Bransford said:
Hard to say for sure but if they're Bosch I'd definitely be more than suspicious and immediately replace them with NTK or NGK.
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Hey Jerry,
i want to replace my spark plug wires, distributer cap and finger, do you have any recommendations. I live in Austria and its really hard to find good quality parts. Are there parts out there which are equally good as the oem ones?
My TJ is a Sport 4.0 from 1997

Best greetings from Austria
 
LennartfromAustria said:
Hey Jerry,
i want to replace my spark plug wires, distributer cap and finger, do you have any recommendations. I live in Austria and its really hard to find good quality parts. Are there parts out there which are equally good as the oem ones?
My TJ is a Sport 4.0 from 1997

Best greetings from Austria
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I don't have any specific recommendations other than to avoid distributor caps and rotors (finger) with aluminum contacts which don't last as long as those that have brass contacts. So try to find a 'premium' distributor cap and rotor with brass contacts.

And for the wiring, OEM type is what you want, avoid any so-called "performance" or "low-resistance" ignition wiring sets. Performance/low-resistance is actually a bad thing where ignition wiring is concerned, it causes static in AM or CB radios which can also interfere with the engine computer.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
I don't have any specific recommendations other than to avoid distributor caps and rotors (finger) with aluminum contacts which don't last as long as those that have brass contacts. So try to find a 'premium' distributor cap and rotor with brass contacts.

And for the wiring, OEM type is what you want, avoid any so-called "performance" or "low-resistance" ignition wiring sets. Performance/low-resistance is actually a bad thing where ignition wiring is concerned, it causes static in AM or CB radios which can also interfere with the engine computer.
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Thanks for your reply, where could I get some OEM wires?

Best regards
 
LennartfromAustria said:
Thanks for your reply, where could I get some OEM wires?

Best regards
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It's unlikely you'll find actual Mopar OEM ignition wiring, you'll have to just do a search for the best quality OEM replacement wiring from a good aftermarket brand that you can find. Like NGK, Denso, AC-Delco, or the "Standard Premium" from Standard Motor Products. Avoid any ignition wiring sets that claim low resistance or better performance or are store brands.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
X2, don't use the special 7/8" O2 socket with the slot milled into it for removing the old O2 sensors. It's not strong enough for that since they are normally seized into place by the time they need to be replaced, it's meant for installing new O2 sensors. Cut the wiring off from the old sensors first then use a normal 7/8 socket/box-end/open-end wrench as needed. You may need some extra leverage from a breaker-bar etc. to break them free, they can be TIGHT.
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williambmac said:
Aside from the one new O2 sensor the others are the originals. How many miles on your jeep?
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Ok so I eventually managed to source sensors and fitted them, and frustratingly they made no difference, it’s still stalling, I’m guessing next would be fuel pump , then pcm ? Im going to order a kit to test the fuel pressure to see what that says.
 
Zach O'Neill said:
Ok so I eventually managed to source sensors and fitted them, and frustratingly they made no difference, it’s still stalling, I’m guessing next would be fuel pump , then pcm ? Im going to order a kit to test the fuel pressure to see what that says.
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I can understand your frustration with trying to source parts over there. My cousin used to own a shop in Armadale up on Skye. He would tell me about the delay in trying to get parts.
Before you go throwing any other parts at it. There are a few free things you can try.
I would check to make sure your battery cables are clean and tight on both ends.
Inspect the wiring harness around the back of the rocker cover, The harness can rub thru causing rough idle/stalling.
With the vehicle warmed up at operating temperature, try moving the harness around to see if you can induce a stall.
Wiggle the connectors at the throttle position sensor, IAC sensor and the two connectors at the rear of the rocker cover (one is gray, and the other is black) see if anything happens.
Try wiggling the wiring at the cam sensor and the crank sensor.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Should be at or very close to 49 psi, rev the engine and see that it can keep the pressure up.
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williambmac said:
I can understand your frustration with trying to source parts over there. My cousin used to own a shop in Armadale up on Skye. He would tell me about the delay in trying to get parts.
Before you go throwing any other parts at it. There are a few free things you can try.
I would check to make sure your battery cables are clean and tight on both ends.
Inspect the wiring harness around the back of the rocker cover, The harness can rub thru causing rough idle/stalling.
With the vehicle warmed up at operating temperature, try moving the harness around to see if you can induce a stall.
Wiggle the connectors at the throttle position sensor, IAC sensor and the two connectors at the rear of the rocker cover (one is gray, and the other is black) see if anything happens.
Try wiggling the wiring at the cam sensor and the crank sensor.
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So I’ve not got round to checking fuel pressure yet but I’ve been doing some research. After changing out the O2 sensors I had taken it on a drive about an hour away from home just to see what creeped up. Something that happened was the speed locked up and wouldn’t go any higher , can’t remember off the top of my head but I think it’s as about 30-40mph , (I don’t really look at the speed I’m going cause the dash is in Km and I’m too lazy to convert it on the fly haha) but from my understanding that means it’s entering limp mode for whatever reason ? When restarted it went back to normal, this happened a good few times. I’m guessing something like that would mean a transmission or pcm fault ? I doubt a fuel pump would cause it to do that, but then I’m not the expert haha. I had considered tcc solenoid a long time ago so maybe it’s time for that to come back up the priority list. I’m going to get myself an OBD II reader that shows live data in the hope that this shows something up , grasping at straws now , the breadth and variety of problems make be think it could be something pcm related but who knows at this stage
 
Just putting a wee post here as kind of a conclusion I guess for anyone wirh the same problems as myself that stumble across this. As far as I can tell the jeeps fixed. How ? I don’t know. I know it wasn’t the o2 sensors I changed cause it still played up. What’s changed in the mean time is my dads compass had an accident meaning he was driving the TJ whilst his is getting fixed. My best guess is there’s been junk clogging a fuel line or an injector or something like that and the extra use has forced it out. I know it had sat for a couple months so I’m guessing the last owner never drove it enough and I just didn’t drive enough to clear any build up
 
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The amount of conclusions this post will have is endless , but just doing it in the hope it will help someone else trying to find answers for a similar issue. After putting the fix down to chance it seemed too good to be true and sure enough my fault eventually came back , serious misfires and stalls, loss of power etc. my new mechanic (and my new go to for the tj) eventually got it to throw a code, where 4 others had failed . It was a P1793, TRD Link communication error. Something I couldn’t find any info about anywhere at all , one or two forum posts but no solutions, my mechanic however suggested a crankshaft sensor and thought that could be causing the code and issues. Long story short a new sensor from the states and my TJ seems relatively happy for the time being. Had a couple of drives and no issues. Apparently what had been happening is the sensor was faulty and over heating, so every time I pulled off the motorway and all the fast flowing air stoped cooling it , it played up and the issue appeared. When it just happened randomly I’m pretty sure it’s down to not having any air on at all, the mechanic said that when the AC is running the fan speeds up ? Not sure how accurate that is but apparently that in turn cooled the sensor meaning every time I put the air off to listen to the fault or the engine , in turn made the fault worse. So for the mean time it’s fixed , however knowing my luck there will probably be another footnote on this post :)
 
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