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Joined
Mar 31, 2020
Messages
70
Location
Austria
Hard to say for sure but if they're Bosch I'd definitely be more than suspicious and immediately replace them with NTK or NGK.
Hey Jerry,
i want to replace my spark plug wires, distributer cap and finger, do you have any recommendations. I live in Austria and its really hard to find good quality parts. Are there parts out there which are equally good as the oem ones?
My TJ is a Sport 4.0 from 1997

Best greetings from Austria
 

Mich2020

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Joined
Jun 24, 2020
Messages
58
Location
Michigan
I got mine off without any real difficulty. I sprayed Kroil on them every day for about a week prior to removal.
 

Jerry Bransford

TJ Guru Moderator
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Nov 9, 2015
Messages
23,758
Location
Fleming Island Florida
Hey Jerry,
i want to replace my spark plug wires, distributer cap and finger, do you have any recommendations. I live in Austria and its really hard to find good quality parts. Are there parts out there which are equally good as the oem ones?
My TJ is a Sport 4.0 from 1997

Best greetings from Austria
I don't have any specific recommendations other than to avoid distributor caps and rotors (finger) with aluminum contacts which don't last as long as those that have brass contacts. So try to find a 'premium' distributor cap and rotor with brass contacts.

And for the wiring, OEM type is what you want, avoid any so-called "performance" or "low-resistance" ignition wiring sets. Performance/low-resistance is actually a bad thing where ignition wiring is concerned, it causes static in AM or CB radios which can also interfere with the engine computer.
 
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Joined
Mar 31, 2020
Messages
70
Location
Austria
I don't have any specific recommendations other than to avoid distributor caps and rotors (finger) with aluminum contacts which don't last as long as those that have brass contacts. So try to find a 'premium' distributor cap and rotor with brass contacts.

And for the wiring, OEM type is what you want, avoid any so-called "performance" or "low-resistance" ignition wiring sets. Performance/low-resistance is actually a bad thing where ignition wiring is concerned, it causes static in AM or CB radios which can also interfere with the engine computer.
Thanks for your reply, where could I get some OEM wires?

Best regards
 

Jerry Bransford

TJ Guru Moderator
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Joined
Nov 9, 2015
Messages
23,758
Location
Fleming Island Florida
Thanks for your reply, where could I get some OEM wires?

Best regards
It's unlikely you'll find actual Mopar OEM ignition wiring, you'll have to just do a search for the best quality OEM replacement wiring from a good aftermarket brand that you can find. Like NGK, Denso, AC-Delco, or the "Standard Premium" from Standard Motor Products. Avoid any ignition wiring sets that claim low resistance or better performance or are store brands.
 
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Zach O'Neill

Zach O'Neill

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Joined
Oct 31, 2021
Messages
31
Location
Glasgow, Scotland
X2, don't use the special 7/8" O2 socket with the slot milled into it for removing the old O2 sensors. It's not strong enough for that since they are normally seized into place by the time they need to be replaced, it's meant for installing new O2 sensors. Cut the wiring off from the old sensors first then use a normal 7/8 socket/box-end/open-end wrench as needed. You may need some extra leverage from a breaker-bar etc. to break them free, they can be TIGHT.
Aside from the one new O2 sensor the others are the originals. How many miles on your jeep?
Ok so I eventually managed to source sensors and fitted them, and frustratingly they made no difference, it’s still stalling, I’m guessing next would be fuel pump , then pcm ? Im going to order a kit to test the fuel pressure to see what that says.
 

williambmac

TJ Expert
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Joined
May 5, 2019
Messages
3,251
Location
Fucktard state of NJ
Ok so I eventually managed to source sensors and fitted them, and frustratingly they made no difference, it’s still stalling, I’m guessing next would be fuel pump , then pcm ? Im going to order a kit to test the fuel pressure to see what that says.
I can understand your frustration with trying to source parts over there. My cousin used to own a shop in Armadale up on Skye. He would tell me about the delay in trying to get parts.
Before you go throwing any other parts at it. There are a few free things you can try.
I would check to make sure your battery cables are clean and tight on both ends.
Inspect the wiring harness around the back of the rocker cover, The harness can rub thru causing rough idle/stalling.
With the vehicle warmed up at operating temperature, try moving the harness around to see if you can induce a stall.
Wiggle the connectors at the throttle position sensor, IAC sensor and the two connectors at the rear of the rocker cover (one is gray, and the other is black) see if anything happens.
Try wiggling the wiring at the cam sensor and the crank sensor.
 
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Zach O'Neill

Zach O'Neill

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Joined
Oct 31, 2021
Messages
31
Location
Glasgow, Scotland
Should be at or very close to 49 psi, rev the engine and see that it can keep the pressure up.
I can understand your frustration with trying to source parts over there. My cousin used to own a shop in Armadale up on Skye. He would tell me about the delay in trying to get parts.
Before you go throwing any other parts at it. There are a few free things you can try.
I would check to make sure your battery cables are clean and tight on both ends.
Inspect the wiring harness around the back of the rocker cover, The harness can rub thru causing rough idle/stalling.
With the vehicle warmed up at operating temperature, try moving the harness around to see if you can induce a stall.
Wiggle the connectors at the throttle position sensor, IAC sensor and the two connectors at the rear of the rocker cover (one is gray, and the other is black) see if anything happens.
Try wiggling the wiring at the cam sensor and the crank sensor.
So I’ve not got round to checking fuel pressure yet but I’ve been doing some research. After changing out the O2 sensors I had taken it on a drive about an hour away from home just to see what creeped up. Something that happened was the speed locked up and wouldn’t go any higher , can’t remember off the top of my head but I think it’s as about 30-40mph , (I don’t really look at the speed I’m going cause the dash is in Km and I’m too lazy to convert it on the fly haha) but from my understanding that means it’s entering limp mode for whatever reason ? When restarted it went back to normal, this happened a good few times. I’m guessing something like that would mean a transmission or pcm fault ? I doubt a fuel pump would cause it to do that, but then I’m not the expert haha. I had considered tcc solenoid a long time ago so maybe it’s time for that to come back up the priority list. I’m going to get myself an OBD II reader that shows live data in the hope that this shows something up , grasping at straws now , the breadth and variety of problems make be think it could be something pcm related but who knows at this stage
 
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Zach O'Neill

Zach O'Neill

Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2021
Messages
31
Location
Glasgow, Scotland
Just putting a wee post here as kind of a conclusion I guess for anyone wirh the same problems as myself that stumble across this. As far as I can tell the jeeps fixed. How ? I don’t know. I know it wasn’t the o2 sensors I changed cause it still played up. What’s changed in the mean time is my dads compass had an accident meaning he was driving the TJ whilst his is getting fixed. My best guess is there’s been junk clogging a fuel line or an injector or something like that and the extra use has forced it out. I know it had sat for a couple months so I’m guessing the last owner never drove it enough and I just didn’t drive enough to clear any build up
 
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