Jeep running rough and stalling when driving

Did you replace the camshaft sensor as well, or just the crankshaft? I had bad crankshaft sensor, and when I replaced it, it drove okay for a while then I had problems again. I replaced the camshaft sensor and it solved the problem. I've been told it's usually good to replace them both at the same time. Not sure if it really matters, but it did the trick for me.
 
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wildbill said:
Did you replace the camshaft sensor as well, or just the crankshaft? I had bad crankshaft sensor, and when I replaced it, it drove okay for a while then I had problems again. I replaced the camshaft sensor and it solved the problem. I've been told it's usually good to replace them both at the same time. Not sure if it really matters, but it did the trick for me.
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Only replaced the crankshaft sensor. Might look at getting the camshaft done along with the OPDA is it called?

Did you have similar symptoms?
 
BeavisTJ said:
Happens more so when warm, however the "coldest" I've noticed it happen would be when I'm about 500m from home.
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I'm not exactly sure what that means but when a problem like that happens mostly after the engine has warmed up, that's usually caused by a bad upstream O2 sensor which won't normally cause a CEL. The engine computer starts using the upstream O2 sensors to set the air-fuel mixture only after the engine has started to warm up. Like spark plugs O2 sensors have a limited life, they need to be replaced once they get old enough. If you decide to replace your O2 sensor(s), make sure to avoid Bosch and use ONLY NTK or NGK O2 sensors. Bosch O2 sensors require a different bias voltage than our Jeeps provide to work properly.
 
Try getting your gas at a different station and brand. While it may do nothing, it is easy to rule out and dosent cost anything. Much cheaper than another sensor and mechanic fee.
 
Goatman said:
Try getting your gas at a different station and brand. While it may do nothing, it is easy to rule out and dosent cost anything. Much cheaper than another sensor and mechanic fee.
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To me, bad gas is such a rarity that I wouldn't guess it to be the problem. In 55 years of driving I don't believe I've ever had a bad tank of gas. Can it happen? Perhaps, but I'd bet the mortgage his problem isn't from bad gas.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
I'm not exactly sure what that means but when a problem like that happens mostly after the engine has warmed up, that's usually caused by a bad upstream O2 sensor which won't normally cause a CEL. The engine computer starts using the upstream O2 sensors to set the air-fuel mixture only after the engine has started to warm up. Like spark plugs O2 sensors have a limited life, they need to be replaced once they get old enough. If you decide to replace your O2 sensor(s), make sure to avoid Bosch and use ONLY NTK or NGK O2 sensors. Bosch O2 sensors require a different bias voltage than our Jeeps provide to work properly.
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I thought this might be the case as well and replace both upstream o2 sensors with NTK, made sure to stay away from Bosch.

Issues with the stalling remained after installation.
 
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Goatman said:
Try getting your gas at a different station and brand. While it may do nothing, it is easy to rule out and dosent cost anything. Much cheaper than another sensor and mechanic fee.
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I'd love it to be bad gas however this has been plaguing me for months now. After a few fuel cleaners through the system I'm pretty confident it's not bad fuel.
 
I doubted it would be the gas, but you never know. Perhaps I have bad luck, but I've gotten several tanks of watery fuel. I have dipped many ground tanks at different places I have worked and almost all have had 1-2 inches of water in them at one point. I know they used to blame the Port of Albany. When they filled the delivery trucks the water came for free. I never really bought that. Think the owners of the stations just didnt want to report a leaking tank. But an easy and free change in fuel pumps is always worth a try.
 
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Update

After a few weeks at the auto electricians they were able to replicate the symptoms and have a diagnostic reader attached. What they found was a problem in the camshaft sensor. They also found some wear on the OPDA gear that connects to the camshaft. So a replacement was ordered and installed.

They were confident that the issue was resolved as it had stopped the bucking and surging idle/stalling. However not long after I had left the auto electricians the RPM's dipped and engine light flashed. As the OPDA was an aftermarket brand I was confident the aftermarket camshaft position sensor wasn't working as well as a MOPAR would. Ordered a CPS from Jeep and had my fingers crossed.

Installed and had a loooooong crank, about 5-10 seconds before starting. Engine check light stayed illuminated and was in limp mode (RPM limited to approximately 2400). I disconnected the battery in hope that the PCM/ECU needed to sync with the new sensor and start fresh. Went for a drive to my girlfriends about an hour drive seemed like all was good, no light or limp mode.

The next morning again long crank and limp mode. Codes that I got from the dash were P0340 and P0344. Have read this is another somewhat common issue but am yet to read a solution, HELP!
 
UPDATE!!!

So as I originally said I will solve this issue however long it takes me and would update as much as I could to hopefully save someone else the trouble. I can now say the problem has been solved! This was really starting to wear me out so I'm very thankful it's fixed and I can get on with enjoying the Jeep.

The fix turned out to be be poor quality/incorrect spark plugs. I used champion plugs RC12ECC sold in the Quadratec 00 - 06 tune up pack. I would like to now issue a public service announcement do NOT use the plugs in the service pack.

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I won't get into the spark plug debate but I replaced the champion with the stock NGK ZFR5N and throttle is smooth, idle is great and the problem has been resolved.

A very big thank you to all who offered their advice and steered me in the right direction, I appreciate the efforts.
 
I have found that Champion plugs won't even run right in a tractor. They are only fit for the lawnmower if that is all I can find. Others swear by them. Go figure. Just glad you got the old girl running right again.👍
 
Thank you so much for all the updates. I am currently having the same issue you were. It started out as high idle, so I cleaned out the throttle body and sensors. While I was at it I figured I change out the spark plugs too. Well the high idle issue went away and soon after the bucking, stalling and rough idle started. I started to suspect the spark plugs as being the issue. I used Autolite. I will nw replace them with NGK this weekend and see if that is my problem.

I will update the thread,

Again thanks for the detailed updates
 
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