JeepRehab '06 LJ Bright Silver Build Thread

JeepRehab

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Joined
Aug 27, 2019
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20
Location
DC
Hello Jeepers,
After lurking on here for the past couple of months during my search for a relatively stock 6 speed manual LJ, I've learned a lot and can only hope to continue. I learned to drive stick in my dad's Scrambler in high school/college. I've always wanted one of my own and being familiar with the ride of a long wheelbase vs. the short, not to mention the extra legroom I definitely knew I wanted to find an LJ. After a couple months long search and education, I finally pulled the trigger on a good looking 1-owner 2006 6MT LJ with 128k miles. It's not a Rubicon, but it will do!

History: It was made in the Mexico plant and according to the CarFax it spent it's first 4 years in Tampa and then apparently moved to Newark, NJ with it's original owner. 1 accident in 2009 where it took minor front end damage, no airbag deployment and the Jeep drove away (no surprise there but there was no trace of the damage in the front end from what I can tell and all body panels are numbers matching). It appears to be well taken care of. The interior is very clean and stock. Usually the state of an interior can tell you a lot about how a vehicle was taken care of (at least that's what my dad taught me!) and I'm hoping this is the case here.

It doesn't appear to have much, if any frame rust; see the pictures and let me know if I need to go digging further, I tried to label the pics as best I could...I know the dealer personally that I bought it from, but he gets these at auction and I don't trust that whoever had it before him wouldn't balk at doing a cover up job! I've reached inside of the holes in the frame rails and it feels smooth as glass, no bubbling anywhere from what I can tell. I've taken a ball-pean hammer to the control arm mounts and didn't notice any give.

I don't doubt that it was exposed to salt air in Florida and then road salt in NY/NJ. I'm no expert, but I looked through a lot of pics on here and comparatively speaking, this one looked good so I jumped on it.

It runs great aside from a slight and intermittent misfire/stumble at idle. I'm going to replace the crank and cam shaft position sensors with OEM Mopar units in the hope that it clears it up. Otherwise I guess I'll be digging into the OPDA and looking at the cam gears. At 128k I would imagine other things could need some attention. But I knew this going into it.

The dealer I bought it from replaced the transmission due to a failing 2nd gear synchro in the original, put another unit in that had 78k miles on it and it shifts like butter. Clutch feels great. Engine runs strong at speed and the new General Grabber AT2's ride smooth. It appears to have recently updated shocks/struts.

That being said, if I get the approval from you guru's on the frame.....I would like to do a 1.25" solid aluminum body lift +/- MML paired with a 2.5" OME spring kit and Rancho rs5000x shocks. I haven't decided if I want to keep the Ravines or get some black 8-hole 15" steelies when I pick up some 32's or 33's. I would apreciateeedback on this setup as a daily driver through the suburbs and into the city with weekend expedition/minor trail use. Thoughts on this would be much appreciated. I'm hoping to do most of this work on my own given I'm pretty handy and have worked on my BMW's in the past.

Stay tuned for updates, I'm looking forward to being part of the community!

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From I can see that frame looks to be in good condition. And it appears they at least tried to keep the frame painted for the most part. Also has a Dana 44 in the rear. Nice find 👍🏼
 
From I can see that frame looks to be in good condition. And it appears they at least tried to keep the frame painted for the most part. Also has a Dana 44 in the rear. Nice find 👍🏼
Thanks for the quick reply! Glad to hear that we agree the frame looks OK. Another reason I was looking for the LJ's was the 6speed MT and the Dana 44 in the rear.
 
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Update: I got the bug and decided to go all out with a new suspension and undercarriage/steering overhaul before the winter for the sake of rust-proofing and peace of mind.

Given my work schedule and living in the city I couldn't really coordinate a way to work on it myself, so I let one of my good friends have at it. He does metal fab and custom hot-rod work and even some old Porsche restorations as a winter gig; so needless to say I trusted his expertise more than my hack mechanic skills.

My goal was to lift it just a bit and refresh the suspension and put some meaty 33's on it. I knew I wanted to go quality on the lift with a low COG but nothing crazy given I'm only going to be able to do any serious off-roading maybe 3-4x/year; otherwise it will be a winter daily-driver in the city and making some summer trips to the beaches in Maryland/Delaware.

So I called up Dirk @ DPG and decided on the OME Ultimate kit which included:
OME Nitro Shocks
OME Coils - Light duty
JKS “Quicker” Disconnects
JKS 1.25″ Body Lift
JKS Adj. Track bars (front & rear)
DPG 2″ Extended Bump stops (Front & rear)
JKS Adj Rear Swaybar End Links.
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I added the Brown dog motor mounts rather than the 1" spacers and also opted to get the OME steering stabilizer since the old one was showing its age.

I chose the light duty coil-rate on the springs since I won't be overlanding or hauling much and don't have plans for a winch or rear bumper with tire-carrier.

Once my buddy started getting it apart he realized the tie-rod ends needed replacing so I just ordered a Crown Heavy duty steering kit from Quadratec to beef up the steering assembly just a bit.

He also ran into some issues with corrosion at the rear shock mounts and body mounts so built a custom access panel which should make it super easy to replace shocks or access the body mounts in the future.

Before:
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After:
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He said the rest of the install went smoothly and after an alignment he was able to get the frame, axles and other components cleaned, painted and wax-coated to give me some peace of mind for the often salt-coated roads of DC. I was happy to receive this pic showing a very noticeable difference!
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This is one of my favorites given the cameo appearance by his DJ-5 rat-rod. It's obviously not for the purists, but a cool use for an old tub that probably would have rusted away otherwise. Given it's heritage as a "mail-jeep" it's also right hand drive!
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Given my work schedule I couldn't get down to pick it up for a week or so and then got the unfortunate news that I had an oil-leak dripping from the rear main seal. Turns out it was trailing down from the valve cover gasket so just swapped in a new one. The valve cover was warped from over-torquing previously which was straightened out a bit, but I believe I might have to get a new valve cover soon given it's still leaking some. I don't believe it's coming from the RMS itself given a new transmission was put in prior to me buying it. That being said I didn't do the work or know the person who did, so there's a possibility I'll pull the transmission this summer.

Here's some pics of the trail at the RMS:
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Here's a bonus pic under the valve cover, was happy that it looked pretty clean for 130k:
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In the midst of all of this I managed to order a new set of wheels and tires to fill out those wheel-wells.
I decided on 15x8 Pro-Comps (Black) with General Grabber ATX 33x12.5. So needless to say, once I got it back in my possession I was excited to see it complete given it did look a bit goofy with the 3+ inches of lift and 31's.

Here's the "never-finished" product:
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I'm planning to put my new Rugged Ridge Spartacus HD tire carrier on this weekend so I can get the spare out of the back and regain my back seat. Also adding a 520XL CB setup and a new speedo gear and putting in a new fuel-tank hose (got the ol' reflux issue) while I'm at it.

Hoping to get a new rear bumper with hitch in the near future. Haven't decided if I'll refinish the stock fender flares or go with a wider setup to cover the tire and avoid any unwanted attention from law-enforcement.
 
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Not questioning your judgement or your mechanics. But how’d you all determine it was a valve cover gasket leak vs rear main? That area is so tight under there I’d think it’d be nearly impossible to tell.
 
Not questioning your judgement or your mechanics. But how’d you all determine it was a valve cover gasket leak vs rear main? That area is so tight under there I’d think it’d be nearly impossible to tell.

Weeping around the VCG pointed him to change it and it appeared to need it given the appearance of the gasket (sorry don’t have pics). It very well could be the RMS is leaking as well, so I’m keeping an eye on the situation until I have the time and resources to pull and potentially rebuild the transmission.
 
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I have the exact same lift, and wheels on my 2005. I think it's the best looking set up you can get without going to 35s. As fare as a rear tire carrier goes, Bestop is having a great sale on their oversized tire carrier. I'd recommend checking to see if they have any left. Normally $300 on sale for $130ish.
 
I have the exact same lift, and wheels on my 2005. I think it's the best looking set up you can get without going to 35s. As fare as a rear tire carrier goes, Bestop is having a great sale on their oversized tire carrier. I'd recommend checking to see if they have any left. Normally $300 on sale for $130ish.

Appreciate the tip, I actually purchased the Rugged Ridge Spartacus HD setup that replaces the hinges. Definitely overpriced, but I like the idea of reusing the previous hinge site rather than drilling new holes in the tub.

Just got my Uniden 520XL CB in the mail yesterday, waiting on a new antenna and Weathertech mats today.
 
Any reason I should avoid this?

Yes, that's not a fix it's a bandaid. This is the fix:



I've done this repair. It's easy and it fixes the problem rather than slaps a bandaid on it.
 
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Yes, that's not a fix it's a bandaid. This is the fix:



I've done this repair. It's easy and it fixes the problem rather than slaps a bandaid on it.
Good to know. I guess I’ll use the bandaid for the Winter and get around to this in the Spring as well.

The issue I have is being able to do the work in my parking lot. I’ve done a lot of DIY projects on my BMW in the past, but got a notice this summer from the neighboring church stating it was “against the rules.” Gotta love these “prissy upper class suburbanites” that can’t handle seeing a man work on his own vehicle.
 
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The issue I have is being able to do the work in my parking lot. I’ve done a lot of DIY projects on my BMW in the past, but got a notice this summer from the neighboring church stating it was “against the rules.” Gotta love these “prissy upper class suburbanites” that can’t handle seeing a man work on his own vehicle.

I could see that being a problem.
 
Weeping around the VCG pointed him to change it and it appeared to need it given the appearance of the gasket (sorry don’t have pics). It very well could be the RMS is leaking as well, so I’m keeping an eye on the situation until I have the time and resources to pull and potentially rebuild the transmission.
No need to drop the transmission to replace the rear main seal. It's a two piece design. Only need to remove the down tubes from the exhaust manifold and pull the oil pan. Then pull the stiffener, the last main bearing cap, and you're there.
 
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