Just an update on the ticking

[weldedcambolt]

somewhere i was saying i put in synthetic, 10.30w, with a spash of seaform, an mystery oil, an ticking left, so I then drained that, an put in 10w30castro non synthetic, 2 bottles of auto rx, an ticking comes back at start. when i shut it off after turning it on, an restart immediatey, ticking goes away, for the most part. going to run this about 3000, an see what happens in between. an its got about 180000, on it. an, when i put the synthetic in it with the mystery oil an seaform, the front seal leaked more, an the rear seal, started leaking, but had not the ticking, as i had before.

 

[KCsTJ]

If the oil pressure is on the low side I would begin looking at that engine with a stroker kit in mind.
Check compression, if below acceptable limits, pull the.motor and order a stroker kit

 

[weldedcambolt]

If the oil pressure is on the low side I would begin looking at that engine with a stroker kit in mind.
Check compression, if below acceptable limits, pull the.motor and order a stroker kit

well, the oil gauge is always running up above 40, after i put a new sensor in it 1st start today, was tickin, then acouple starts later, tickin was gone....well see if the autorx, can do what the mystery oil an sea fom was achieving http://www.enginekits.com/stroker-k...302ci-to-347ci-stroker-assembly-kit-8902.html now your talkin crazy always wanted a 350 jeep, but then where really talking crazy removin axles, gauges, lines.......tired just thinkin about it.......

 

[weldedcambolt]

update, ticking seems to be getting less, maybe the new stuff is starting to set in

 

[KCsTJ]

You need to expect some lifter ticking from these engines.
It is clearly noticeable in my 2.5 with 163k.
I think it just adds to the jeep personality.

 

[xackley]

It is time to put your favorite oil in and just enjoy it. Ticking on start up is no big deal on old style engines if it goes away in less than a minute. My 2.5 rattles at cold start up, then smooth out withing 5 or 10 seconds.
There is no down side to adding some Bars Leak 1040, it might make the gaskets and seals swell a little. It seems to work on small leaks.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Running Sea Foam in engine oil is a major bad idea.

 

[cliffish]

Running Sea Foam in engine oil is a major bad idea.

Jerry give me your thoughts on why this is a bad idea for a couple hundred miles before an oil change? I only ask as on my Triumph forums (the TR6 has a similar "tractor" engine), they recommend it, especially on those cars that are usually not driven very much. Over there they claim (the "gurus") that it will free up stuck rings and valves?

thx

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Jerry give me your thoughts on why this is a bad idea for a couple hundred miles before an oil change?

Because it's not a lubricant and that it dilutes the lubricating oil. I'm of the opinion that there are MUCH better products available than the one-product-does-all (ha!) Sea Foam.

 

[BendLarry]

Use the Seafoam it’s a tried and true solution. I have used it for at least 30 years with good results.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[xackley]

Sea Foam is magic for small problems, nothing to be afraid of. Try it before you get out the wrenches and drivers. At least you know it will not cause more problems like stripped and broken bolts. My introduction was on forums for old motorcycle. It either helps or does nothing at all, it is just a solvent.
I also use it in the gas before parking a motorcycle for the winter, and 6 to 8 months later, all 5 start up with relatively little problem.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

....My introduction was on forums for old motorcycle. It either helps or does nothing at all, it is just a solvent.
I also use it in the gas before parking a motorcycle for the winter, and 6 to 8 months later, all 5 start up with relatively little problem.

Exactly, it is a solvent/varnish remover that was originally developed to clean out fuel systems of engines that hadn't been run in months. Primarily fuel lines and the jet(s) inside carburetors that would get clogged from old gasoline that essentially turns to varnish. It is very good at that job for which it was originally developed. As a solvent suitable to be added to the engine oil, diluting it, and kept in there while the engine is run? I think you'd have to be nuts to add it to the engine oil, even for a short period of time. I value my engine bearings too much for that.

What I don't understand is the unfounded belief that Sea Foam is good for everything inside an engine. It's not. Not to mention that gasolines back in the day when Sea Foam was developed did not contain any cleaning additives like the EPA has required adequate amounts of to be in all modern gasolines since the 80's when fuel injection became standard.

To me, Sea Foam had to reinvent itself once fuel system cleaners became far less required than they were before modern gasolines started incorporating them. Products like Sea Foam are best fixing fuel systems clogged from lack of use which isn't really common except for outboards and lawn mowers that often sit unstarted for much of the year which causes the gasoline to thicken/turn to varnish & thoroughly clog things up.

 

[lovemachine]

Exactly, it is a solvent/varnish remover that was originally developed to clean out fuel systems of engines that hadn't been run in months. Primarily fuel lines and the jet(s) inside carburetors that would get clogged from old gasoline that essentially turns to varnish. It is very good at that job for which it was originally developed. As a solvent suitable to be added to the engine oil, diluting it, and kept in there while the engine is run? I think you'd have to be nuts to add it to the engine oil, even for a short period of time. I value my engine bearings too much for that.

What I don't understand is the unfounded belief that Sea Foam is good for everything inside an engine. It's not. Not to mention that gasolines back in the day when Sea Foam was developed did not contain any cleaning additives like the EPA has required adequate amounts of to be in all modern gasolines since the 80's when fuel injection became standard.

Whats your opinion on the STP oil additive?

My dad has used that stuff for as long as I can remember in his vehicles.

 

[skrelnik]

Whats your opinion on the STP oil additive?

My dad has used that stuff for as long as I can remember in his vehicles.

Personally I noticed a huge improvement when I added STP with ZDDP. I have since added this every time I do an oil change. Very happy with the results.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Whats your opinion on the STP oil additive?

My dad has used that stuff for as long as I can remember in his vehicles.

No real opinion other than it's probably best for reducing oil consumption in an engine in need of an overhaul. It basically just increases the viscosity of the oil which, depending on the condition of the engine, can either be good or bad.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Personally I noticed a huge improvement when I added STP with ZDDP. I have since added this every time I do an oil change. Very happy with the results.

ZDDP is still present in our engine oils, just in reduced amounts to prevent damaging the catalytic converter. More ZDDP is definitely needed for high performance engines to prevent damage when high-lift cams with stiff valve springs are present.... not so much in a standard compression engine like the 2.5L or 4.0L engine. If ZDDP was required for our stock Jeep tractor engines we'd be regularly hearing of cam lobe damage from a lack of ZDDP but we're not. Few engines on the road have need of more ZDDP than is contained in modern engine oils.

 

[skrelnik]

ZDDP is still present in our engine oils, just in reduced amounts to prevent damaging the catalytic converter. More ZDDP is definitely needed for high performance engines to prevent damage when high-lift cams with stiff valve springs are present.... not so much in a standard compression engine like the 2.5L or 4.0L engine. If ZDDP was required for our stock Jeep tractor engines we'd be regularly hearing of cam lobe damage from a lack of ZDDP but we're not. Few engines on the road have need of more ZDDP than is contained in modern engine oils.

As usual your post is accurate but I had a ticking/engine noise that was significantly reduced when using that STP additive with ZDDP. This stuff really worked and I have been using it ever since, and my engine has been running really smooth since that initial use.

I agree with you that a zinc additive is not a requirement for our engine, but I do believe it helps quiet engine noise. Do our now old school flat tappet cams need more zinc than roller cams? That is the big debate, a debate I do not know enough about. What I do know is it worked for me, and has worked for others with the 4.0.

As always, appreciate your feedback.

 

[weldedcambolt]

How about, axle additive, if it forms over divits in the metals, to smooth them out....couple tubes of axle additive in with the oil? what do you think

 

[xackley]

How about, axle additive, if it forms over divits in the metals, to smooth them out....couple tubes of axle additive in with the oil? what do you think

This would be Star Trek territory, where no man has gone before.
You should post a 1 minute youtube video of the sound.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

How about, axle additive, if it forms over divits in the metals, to smooth them out....couple tubes of axle additive in with the oil? what do you think

Leave the "miracle" (snake oil) additives out of the oil. It can't possibly be compatible with all oil formulations, it is more likely to degrade the performance of a good quality carefully blended engine oil. Not to mention virtually all major oil manufacturers caution against adding additives.