To be fair, the TJ Rubicon lockers only existed for 4 years. I don't know how common that style of plunger sensor is, but that has no bearing on how well the gears are set up.
Just had 4.88 gears installed
- Thread starter 04RubiOR
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To be fair, the TJ Rubicon lockers only existed for 4 years. I don't know how common that style of plunger sensor is, but that has no bearing on how well the gears are set up.
The
The gears work great. Driving home with the new gears blew my mind what a difference they made. It's just odd that i never had this issue before until i picked my jeep up after having the gears installed.
If it turns out to be nothing related to the gear install and there truly is something wrong with the rear locker, it seems like a good time to swap it out for a ARB. From what i've read the housing on the ARB is much stronger and better suited for running 35's. The whole point of installing the gears is because 35's is the next on the list. Is there any issue running a ARB in the rear and still having the stock Rubicon locker up front?
I get frustrated with how finicky the rubicon lockers are. Does anyone know if the ARB's would suffer from the same issue? Thanks.
The gears work great. Driving home with the new gears blew my mind what a difference they made. It's just odd that i never had this issue before until i picked my jeep up after having the gears installed.
If it turns out to be nothing related to the gear install and there truly is something wrong with the rear locker, it seems like a good time to swap it out for a ARB. From what i've read the housing on the ARB is much stronger and better suited for running 35's. The whole point of installing the gears is because 35's is the next on the list. Is there any issue running a ARB in the rear and still having the stock Rubicon locker up front?
I get frustrated with how finicky the rubicon lockers are. Does anyone know if the ARB's would suffer from the same issue? Thanks.
I seriously doubt there's anything wrong with the locker at all, very likely just the sensor getting in the way of the locker's actuator plate as talked about already above. Go to the previous page to see the new images posted earlier.
I had to remove & reinstall both carriers enough that I ended up permanently removing the sensors so they'd stop getting in the way. I don't need a light on the instrument cluster to tell me when my lockers are engaged.
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This forum would be worth being a member just for Jerry's advice alone (but I sincerely do appreciate all of you!)
Just an update
I hadnt been able to reproduce the popping sound until today. I was testing to see if having it 4WD had any adverse effects. I was in some fairly loose dirt and rock. I had it in 4hi and when I I did a 3 point turn to turn around it made a loud popping sound in the rear while I was turning near 90 degrees. The steering was almost maxed out. I tried slightly less sharp turns in 4WD and it didn't make any noise. I'm afraid to try a more severe turn. Don't wanna brake anything (unless if I already did).
I hadnt been able to reproduce the popping sound until today. I was testing to see if having it 4WD had any adverse effects. I was in some fairly loose dirt and rock. I had it in 4hi and when I I did a 3 point turn to turn around it made a loud popping sound in the rear while I was turning near 90 degrees. The steering was almost maxed out. I tried slightly less sharp turns in 4WD and it didn't make any noise. I'm afraid to try a more severe turn. Don't wanna brake anything (unless if I already did).
Xposure
TJ Enthusiast
No. Still hasn't done it since. I think I was causing it to make the "pop" sound when I was trying to reproduce the original pop I heard on way home from shop. As mentioned above, I was driving in 4WD when trying to reproduce noise and turning alto sharply.
I’m interested what happened with this thread? Did it ever pop again? What seemed to be the cause?
Hasn’t done it again. I think I was causing the noise when trying to reproduce. Turning in 4hi at almost full lock. I learned real quick not to do that. Still not sure what caused the initial pop sound on the way home. Like I said. I suffer from pretty high anxiety and I could’ve just heard something and automatically assumed the worst. Anyways all is good. Taken it off road a few times and have had to drive to work in 4hi due to icy conditions and no popping.
It will be the sensor pin. Avoid driving it. It means it’s cocked the locker hence the pop. It’s semi engaged, and you may shred it.
For whatever reason , the back is harder to get past the locker flange, even doing the string trick.
You can prove it by locking the rear diff and the dash locker indicator won’t light incorrectly.
I’d have it on a roll back.
I went through the exact same situation. I’m getting new gears this week due to a regear gone wrong.
For whatever reason , the back is harder to get past the locker flange, even doing the string trick.
You can prove it by locking the rear diff and the dash locker indicator won’t light incorrectly.
I’d have it on a roll back.
I went through the exact same situation. I’m getting new gears this week due to a regear gone wrong.
Considering this post is six months old and he has no problems with it i would say it is just fine.