Keep or lose the dropped pitman arm?

williambmac

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Do I ditch the DPA or keep it. Clayton 4" LA, Clayton track bar their drop bracket and Currie steering. Sorry the pics aren't that great.
steering 2.webp
steering_LI.webp
 
Before replacing anything, does the jeep run fine? Any issues you are looking to solve?
 
Take those photos again but turn your camera's flash on. We especially want to see the dropped mount on the driver's side track bar mount.

Personally if both are dropped I'd remove them and go with non-dropped versions. I had a stupid Rubicon Express dropped Pitman arm/dropped driver's side track bar mount and the dropped track bar mount just caused problems. The axle kept impacting the dropped TB mount. @mrblaine saw the clusterfuck problems it was causing and took care of removing it while I was there one Saturday.
 
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Hopefully these are
steering 3.webp
steering4.webp
steering5.webp
steering6.webp
steering7.webp
better.
I've been trying to chase down a steering/suspension issue I have been having since I installed the lift a number of years ago.
I'm constantly having to correct the steering as I'm driving on the highway. It does it all the time, whether on pavement or concrete, and its not due to road crown.
The axles arm centered, the toe in is perfect at a little more then 1/8", caster is at 5.5 degrees and the camber is well within spec and almost equal on both sides. Rear thrust angle is a 0.2 degrees.
I originally though that it was do to having a triangulated rear uppers. I though maybe the rear axle could be moving side to side do to no rear track bar.
I have gone over everything and can't find anything loose.
The ball joints are all new, installed when I put in Blaines Big Brake Kit. Tire pressures are at 30 psi.
4" Synergy springs and Fox shocks, PSC steering box.
My last TJ had a 5.5" Rubicon Express long arm with a rear track bar and didn't handle like this.
So while I was lying under the jeep today I was thinking maybe I should remove the dpa.
The lift was originally a 5.5" lift so I installed Claytons dpa and the track bar drop bracket.
I installed Drop track bar bracket as a safety precaution because it's a double shear bracket and my jeep sees a ton of highway miles.
 
The driver's side mount of the track bar doesn't need to be double-shear, the factory design single-shear is plenty safe for the highway. I'd go back to the factory single-shear track bar mount and non-dropped Pitman arm. The driver's side mount of the track bar doesn't need to be double-shear, the factory design single-shear is plenty safe for the highway. I'd go back to the factory single-shear track bar mount and non-dropped Pitman arm. Single-shear is good enough for the more astute companies like Currie and Savvy.
 
I had a similar issue with a Jeep I bought years ago. Remove the drop bracket and DPA and go back to the stock setup, like Jerry B said.
 
The driver's side mount of the track bar doesn't need to be double-shear, the factory design single-shear is plenty safe for the highway. I'd go back to the factory single-shear track bar mount and non-dropped Pitman arm.
Tell that to Rubicon Express track bar that decided to part ways with my factory bracket! But... I am thinking I will cut the bracket off and go back to the factory bracket and possibly a different track bar.
 
Tell that to Rubicon Express track bar that decided to part ways with my factory bracket! But... I am thinking I will cut the bracket off and go back to the factory bracket and possibly a different track bar.
You're blaming the wrong end of the equation. Blame RE, not the single-shear design. I got rid of my POS RE track bar setup. The driver's side mount of the track bar doesn't need to be double-shear, the factory design single-shear is plenty safe for the highway. I'd go back to the factory single-shear track bar mount and non-dropped Pitman arm. Single-shear is good enough for the more astute companies like Currie and Savvy.
 
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Your rig should ride just fine with both dropped. As long as they are both stock style or both dropped you will be fine. We always recommend all stock style mounting points and pitman arms though, because you’re only limiting flex/up travel with a drop bracket there. There’s just no need to run that with a 4 inch lift.
 
Your rig should ride just fine with both dropped. As long as they are both stock style or both dropped you will be fine.
I used to think the same thing until I noticed my axle was impacting the dropped RE track bar mounting bracket when the driver's side tire would try to stuff up into the fender well.
 
I understand, but when the POS track bar separates at 70mph and you have a shit your pants moment, you consider a double shear mount!!!
As already said above, you're blaming the wrong side of the equation, blame RE not the single shear track bar mount design that works well enough that Currie and Savvy use it as-is. That design holds up to lots of abuse even on King of the Hammers race vehicles.
 
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As already said above, you're blaming the wrong side of the equation, blame RE not the single shear track bar mount design that works well enough that Currie and Savvy use it as-is. That design holds up to lots of abuse even on King of the Hammers race vehicles.

Jerry, the Rubicon Express drop bracket I’m hearing you. Was your issue just with the bracket, or have you seen issues with the RE front adjustable track bar?