LED turn signal issues

[B.E. Coyote]

I noticed I was having gremlins last week when I was checking the lights for the Jeeps first state inspection since I have owned it.
Left High beam worked, right low beam worked, no turn signals unless the headlights were on.

I ordered a new multifunction switch and used the novita 27 relay that was in the old switch.
The 4 way flashers went in to a hyper flash.

A little reading here and I found that the Novita LM470 is preferred.
Swapped that and everything was good to go.


Then I failed the inspection because it had one of those LED rings behind the spare instead of the high mounted brake light.

I removed the ring and I made a bracket and installed an incandescent 3rd brake light.

Now my passenger side rear turn signal doesn't flash when the low or high beams are on. I tried an LED bulb in the lamp holder also.

Same result.

Would a straight up LED assembly fix this?

 

[B.E. Coyote]

Every other exterior light is LED.

 

[Feralkid]

Then I failed the inspection because it had one of those LED rings behind the spare instead of the high mounted brake light.

Find a new mechanic.

Now my passenger side rear turn signal doesn't flash when the low or high beams are on. I tried an LED bulb in the lamp holder also.

When you replaced the multifunction switch did you also replace it's connector.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPPQZ6Y?tag=wranglerorg-20

The main problem with the MFS is that the headlights and fog lights are powered through the switch and the high amps cause heat degradation in the switch and connector. Circuits are probably touching in the MFS connector because it's fried. You should take the load off the switch by wiring your head lights and fog lights directly to the battery using relays.

 

[B.E. Coyote]

New Inspector or mechanic? I'm the mechanic, I'm not great but I work for free.

I did not replace the connector but did inspect it and clean it out with contact cleaner.

 

[TheBoogieman]

Then I failed the inspection because it had one of those LED rings behind the spare instead of the high mounted brake light.

Find a new inspection station. A working third brake light is all you need to pass.

 

[B.E. Coyote]

Find a new inspection station. A working third brake light is all you need to pass.
View attachment 700030

That will be my plan for next year. I got my sticker today because for re-inspection he only checked the 3rd brake light and it was only $1.00. I did do spme reading and it seems the DOT only makes manufacturers stamp headlights and maybe something else with DOT. Brake lights do not have to be stamped even though they still need to be DOT compliant.

 

[Feralkid]

That will be my plan for next year. I got my sticker today because for re-inspection he only checked the 3rd brake light and it was only $1.00. I did do spme reading and it seems the DOT only makes manufacturers stamp headlights and maybe something else with DOT. Brake lights do not have to be stamped even though they still need to be DOT compliant.

If a light is red it has to be in the rear and not flash to be DOT compliant. Your ring light is DOT compliant.

Even if I had headlights that weren't DOT compliant and got failed for it I would find a new mechanic that would pass it. It's at the inspector's discretion, get one that's on your side.

I took mine to the shop down the street for an inspection and it failed for the flood lights on the bumper not being covered. As if when I covered the lights for it to pass I would not immediately remove the covers afterward. I just took it five miles down the road to a guy who isn't dumb as shit to get it inspected. I don't play stupid games. I'd rather pay for the inspection twice than buy light covers that I'll only use once a year like a doofus.

 

[chili_pepper]

A working third brake light is all you need to pass.

I couldn't speak specifically to VA or WV, but I think that depends a bit on the state (and maybe even specific inspection stations). Some are quite dickish about the vehicle being configured with original equipment as it was from the factory, so the ring light would be an automatic fail.

 

[B.E. Coyote]

Swapped back to the ring and will go somewhere else next year.

Problem is that I still have no rear right turn signal with the headlights on. Put the old switch in with the new Novita 470. Same.

Going to pull that light and check the ground.

Of course there is no way to remove this particular LED light from the outside. Looks like I will need to remove the wheel, fender liner, and evap pump to have access to the nuts inside the tub that hold the light on.

I'm also getting an occasional 1494 code.

Any chance that pump and the tail light share a ground point to the frame?

 

[Feralkid]

Swapped back to the ring and will go somewhere else next year.

Problem is that I still have no rear right turn signal with the headlights on. Put the old switch in with the new Novita 470. Same.

Could you have used an incorrect bulb?
A lot of different bulb models will fit into the same socket. Verify you used to correct bulb number. It could also be a defective bulb.
If it's not the switch or the bulb, it's probably something wrong with the socket. Is there corrosion?

 

[B.E. Coyote]

Could you have used an incorrect bulb?
A lot of different bulb models will fit into the same socket. Verify you used to correct bulb number.

No bulbs at this point, everything is back to the way it was when I bought it and known to be working. Everything is an aftermarket LED fixture. It has LED headlights with integrated turn signals, small LED markers on the high line fenders, the ring of fire type 3rd brake light and sealed LED tail lights.

Likely that the problem came before I swapped the third brake light to make the inspector happy. It was just when I noticed it.

 

[WVJeep304]

I couldn't speak specifically to VA or WV, but I think that depends a bit on the state (and maybe even specific inspection stations). Some are quite dickish about the vehicle being configured with original equipment as it was from the factory, so the ring light would be an automatic fail.

Definitely depends on the state. In WV for example, if the vehicle was originally equipped with a 3rd brake light, it has to have one in functional condition with no cracks or obstructions. You can replace it with an aftermarket unit, but it has to steady burn (no flashing), be mounted in the center of the vehicle, and be visible from 100'.

That said, not everyone knows the inspection rules like they think they do, and some are super hardcore about enforcing what they think are the rules. I have a couple of places in my area that never give me any trouble with any of my vehicles, when truthfully only one should probably pass.

So it's also definitely going to come down to the individual inspection station as well. Stations that have been caught not following the rules are always extra cautious. But I've heard stories out of California of inspectors letting things slide and from what I hear, Cali is one of the most difficult states in regards to inspections, so there's always some discretion if someone is willing to risk it.

 

[chili_pepper]

not everyone knows the inspection rules like they think they do, and some are super hardcore about enforcing what they think are the rules.

Not unlike building codes inspections. The actual codes are of lesser concern, how the inspector interprets and understands the code is a much larger issue...and some of those inpectors are clueless, yet they have the power to bring an active jobsite to a grinding halt.

Everything is an aftermarket LED fixture.

I only added LED tail light assemblies early on and recently retrobright headlights to my LJ, other than that still incandescent bulbs. I only mention this as, when I looked into LED a couple years back, there were a number of posts here of people having issues with some lights no longer working correctly after doing a full LED installation. I feel like front fender turn signals were one of the problem areas, but there may have been others. Might be some value in searching through those threads if you're at a loss.

 

[TheBoogieman]

I couldn't speak specifically to VA or WV, but I think that depends a bit on the state (and maybe even specific inspection stations). Some are quite dickish about the vehicle being configured with original equipment as it was from the factory, so the ring light would be an automatic fail.

I had an inspection station in Va fail my Jeep because he said my stock headlights weren't bright enough.

 

[B.E. Coyote]

Not unlike building codes inspections. The actual codes are of lesser concern, how the inspector interprets and understands the code is a much larger issue...and some of those inpectors are clueless, yet they have the power to bring an active jobsite to a grinding halt.



I only added LED tail light assemblies early on and recently retrobright headlights to my LJ, other than that still incandescent bulbs. I only mention this as, when I looked into LED a couple years back, there were a number of posts here of people having issues with some lights no longer working correctly after doing a full LED installation. I feel like front fender turn signals were one of the problem areas, but there may have been others. Might be some value in searching through those threads if you're at a loss.

Jeep has steel high line fenders, I paln to trach down some stock ones and then switch over this off season. I would be fine going back to all incadecent lights. I'll search those threads too. Thanks

 

[chili_pepper]

Jeep has steel high line fenders, I paln to trach down some stock ones and then switch over this off season. I would be fine going back to all incadecent lights. I'll search those threads too. Thanks

Sorry, I made the assumption you were running stock front fenders. I believe there was a solution to the LED issues the other members were posting about, whether that solution would solve your issues, hard to say. Worth a look, you might find a nugget of info that will get you squared away.