Looking at lifting my 98 TJ sport 3-4”. No extreme off roading, I drive mostly street and maybe backroads to fishing or camping. Looking at JKS or Clayton. Why do some lifts only come with several control arms and others come with all 8. Is it necessary to change all the arms? I’m ok with that but don’t see the need to overspend if I don’t have to.
Lift control arms
- Thread starter Slippyslappy
- Start date
Well depends on if you are lifting 3 or four inches and your intended use. Lifts three inches and under and moderate off-road use can usually get away with front lowers and rear uppers to get the basic alignment and pinion angle settings corrected. Four inches and harder off-road use will require all four arms to fully dial in everything to get the most performance.
Different lifts from different companies are all about what features they want to offer at a certain price point. Some will offer the bare minimum, others go all in. Some companies do not fully understand TJs (Rough Coutry looking at you) and still include stuff that is not needed like drop pitman arms.
Their are a lot of good threads on here with good recipes of what works. I find doing the google thing works the best.
Different lifts from different companies are all about what features they want to offer at a certain price point. Some will offer the bare minimum, others go all in. Some companies do not fully understand TJs (Rough Coutry looking at you) and still include stuff that is not needed like drop pitman arms.
Their are a lot of good threads on here with good recipes of what works. I find doing the google thing works the best.
Tire size? Look into the Zone 4.25" combo lift with the shocks of your choice. You can add other stuff if/when you need it.
I want the look and performance of a 4 inch lift max with 33x12.5x15. I’d like the option of adding 35’s if I wanted with the understanding of more performance mods down the road.
Last edited:
I think you’re on the edge of an expensive slippery slope.
You need to spend some time on this site looking at what it takes to go from stock to reliably running 35s before thinking about that. If you just want the look of a lifted Jeep, I'd recommend keeping it simple and smaller, with 2-3" springs and a 1" body lift on 33s. You'll still need to be geared an acceptable ratio. Going to 35s will take quite a bit more.I think you’re on the edge of an expensive slippery slope.
I think I my best option is doing it right the first time. Replace necessary components as needed to maintain a quality ride. I think that’s far more important than trying to save a few coins. I’ll be guaranteeing myself a solid jeep
Then you need to go straight to a 4” suspension lift. Here’s the thread you should study.
Thread 'A comparison of building for 33s and 35s'
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-comparison-of-building-for-33s-and-35s.65713/
What does that mean to you?
With a 2" spring, you can generally run all stock parts. 3" springs will need adjustable track bars added and a SYE or a 1" transfer case drop. Once you get above that, you need a lot more. Look around here, there's plenty of solid info of what's required.
Look through the thread JMT linked and see if you really want to go down that road.
Last edited:
Go with Currie and get double adjustable control arms too. Maybe even a mid-arm lift. Regear it to 4.88 first. 5.13, if you ever plan on running 35s. Don't forget the BM brakes or BBK, upgraded tie rod, axle shafts, etc......
p.s. I hope you at least have a Dana 44 rear axle.
Last edited:
Go with Currie and get double adjustable control arms too. Maybe even a mid-arm lift. Regear it to 4.88 first. 5.13, if you ever plan on running 35s. Don't forget the BM brakes or BBK, upgraded tie rod, etc......
You forgot the stroker or LS swap and wontons.
You forgot the stroker or LS swap and wontons.
He will have to wait for those, until he gets a second job, and his wife divorces him. I hope he doesn't have kids. The child support will cut into his funds to build a capable Jeep to get to the fishing hole.
So your first post you said you didn’t want to spend when you don’t have to.
Folks tried to show how you can split the difference, not spend a ton but get your goals.
If this later post is your position, “I’d like 4” suspension and be ready for 35’s”. Then ok, you absolutely won’t be saving a few coins…..if you do it right as you suggested.
You’ll need all 8 Arms at 4” lift, if doing it right.
You’ll need a SYE or SSSYE,
You’ll need Axle upgrades and gearing upgrade
You’ll need a new driveshaft rear, possibly front but doubt it.
You’ll need extended brake lines and most likely brake upgrades
You’ll need track bar upgrades to adjustable
Don't forget the 4" springs, 1" body lift, and rear track bar bracket. Then, if he wants to carry a 35" spare tire, he'll need some type of reinforcement back there too. Oh yes, that expensive slippery slope. What are we up to, $10,000-12,000 now plus wheels and tires.
Don't forget the 4" springs, 1" body lift, and rear track bar bracket. Then, if he wants to carry a 35" spare tire, he'll need some type of reinforcement back there too. Oh yes, that expensive slippery slope. What are we up to, $10,000-12,000 now plus wheels and tires.
I assume the springs were in the Lift Kit mentioned. And shocks, but not sure .
Make an educated decision and go for it.
This is why you’re on what, #3 you said? Ha.
I’m with #1, and keep these comments and thoughts out of mind.