I was planning on either 285 or 295/ 75 r16, I want keep the rubi hara wheels. It's the 6speed with 4.10s.
I'm going to sound like an ass, sorry. You talk about some components like your heading to the trail and others like your building a mall crawler. The only reason to spend money on skids is because you've beaten the shit out of the bottom of your Jeep or plan on it. Less the 4 inches of lift pretty much means you won't be getting to the places that will cause any damage. I have two Jeeps, 97 sport & a 2013 jku Rubicon. These are Jeeps number 5/6 for me. I made lots of mistakes with suspension mods, going to make more. I have a cheap 3.5 inch spring and bracket kit on the Rubicon. It's half way between a usable trail rig and mall crawler. In driven the middle parts of the nachez trail in Washington with it and it works. But the short travel of the stock components make the Jeep tilt more then articulate. The 97 being my third TJ, I'm looking at the metal cloak. I want to try those joints and I've seen every one of the components included in that kit as either a repair part or an upgrade to the stock components in the other kits I and my friends have chosen. There is a reason behind this bundles, they are the components that are needed to adjust the geometry of the suspension for the spring height. Jeep builds the suspension parts for the height of the stock springs. Changing those means you have to adjust all the math if the suspension. You get what you pay for and when you have to drive it everyday, cheap shows up in the seat fast.I was exploring the 3in spring idea to get away from a body lift, and major changes that happen around the 4in mark. I understand the benefits such as a lower profile T-Case and raised gas tank skids, lower center of gravity, I just don’t like the look.
Long run I could see adding the UCF no body lift skid and the appropriate arms to help the pinion angels. I will also already have the brown mount mml and a UCF tranny mount. Just looking for ideas and feedback.
I was inspired to build a better jks spec 3in kit, there is very little infor on the product. There are a few, savy has the choice of Bilstein, bds pushes for Fox, than there are Ranchos. Metal cloak run there own 3.5in coils and shocks or ome shocks with a upgrade.
I was exploring the 3in spring idea to get away from a body lift, and major changes that happen around the 4in mark. I understand the benefits such as a lower profile T-Case and raised gas tank skids, lower center of gravity, I just don’t like the look.
Long run I could see adding the UCF no body lift skid and the appropriate arms to help the pinion angels. I will also already have the brown mount mml and a UCF tranny mount. Just looking for ideas and feedback.
I was inspired to build a better jks spec 3in kit, there is very little infor on the product. There are a few, savy has the choice of Bilstein, bds pushes for Fox, than there are Ranchos. Metal cloak run there own 3.5in coils and shocks or ome shocks with a upgrade.
I'm going to sound like an ass, sorry. You talk about some components like your heading to the trail and others like your building a mall crawler. The only reason to spend money on skids is because you've beaten the shit out of the bottom of your Jeep or plan on it. Less the 4 inches of lift pretty much means you won't be getting to the places that will cause any damage. I have two Jeeps, 97 sport & a 2013 jku Rubicon. These are Jeeps number 5/6 for me. I made lots of mistakes with suspension mods, going to make more. I have a cheap 3.5 inch spring and bracket kit on the Rubicon. It's half way between a usable trail rig and mall crawler. In driven the middle parts of the nachez trail in Washington with it and it works. But the short travel of the stock components make the Jeep tilt more then articulate. The 97 being my third TJ, I'm looking at the metal cloak. I want to try those joints and I've seen every one of the components included in that kit as either a repair part or an upgrade to the stock components in the other kits I and my friends have chosen. There is a reason behind this bundles, they are the components that are needed to adjust the geometry of the suspension for the spring height. Jeep builds the suspension parts for the height of the stock springs. Changing those means you have to adjust all the math if the suspension. You get what you pay for and when you have to drive it everyday, cheap shows up in the seat fast.
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Avoid the fox shocks on 3” of lift. If you really want a set I’ll give you a great deal on a set. I would not reccomend these shocks to anyone running SPECIFICALLY 3” of lift. Either bump up the coil size to 4” or switch shocks. 1.25” BL and 3” bumpstop in the front & 3.5” of bumpstop in the rear. The fox body’s on that shock is not appropriate for 3” of lift and it bottoms out way too early. I am in this crisis, I need to either purchase new springs or new shocks. Take it for what its worth.I had a local shop price out a lift the other day and this is what I got back... Roughly $1400
Part Number Part Description Part Price Each Quantity Extended
BDS 3" FR 109.99
BDS 3" RE 99.99
FOX 2.0 PERFORMANCE SERIES SHO FR 249.98
FOX 2.0 PERFORMANCE SERIES SHO RE 249.98
FOX 2.0 STEERING DAMP 149.99
2001 JKS QUICKER DISCONNECTS 165.00
METALCLOAK TJ ADJ FRT TRACKBAR 2.5+ 179.00
METALCLOAK TJ/LJ REAR ADJ TRACKBAR 189.00
Which should tell you that the short lift added to your undercarriage damage. You can get grab bars or straps to help the "little woman" get in. Lol with 4 inches, diff covers, gas tank and steering box skid, your LJ will be a very capable rig! It will make me jealous...Makes sense, thanks. I usually try to make it out to anthracite or rausch two to three times a year. Other than that, the jeep is my summer driver and the "I need to make it through the snow to work vehicle". My previous TJ was a 97 with 2in bds springs and 31s. Aired down, I ruined an oil pan skid and left some nice dents in the tcase skid as well as rearranging a few control arms. That was my reasoning for skids.
With an LJ there are no major changes needed with a 4 inch lift. Once you go above yes, but just at 4 inches you dont run into driveline problems.
3 weeks ago I installed the currie 4 inch lift by hand and only installed springs, extended bumpstops, adjustable upper/lower control arms and adjustable trackbars. No SYE/CV deiveshaft needed. Ive had no vibrations or anything. I decided to go with the RS5000x shocks
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Pretty sure a drop pitman arm is not needed.... not with this small of a lift.......For that much lift, I'd rather see you use good quality track bar drop brackets and a drop pitman arm. It'll keep them flatter and keep the cycling of the suspension closer to stock. The adjustable bars will re-center the body relative to the axle but the increased angle from the lift will cause a more significant right-left shift when you hit a bump. IMHO, of course. And if you're sticking with 33's, I agree with JMT that a RE steering dampener will be more than enough. The larger bore of the Fox allows for increased dampening without making the valving especially stiff. The Fox is really meant for 37"+ tires, or a ton off wheel offset where the extra leverage will require more dampening.
I think the whole idea that an MML and BL are a waste off time. When you lift the engine angle and the output shaft of the front side of the TC you put stress on the front drive line. Imho, any Jeep lifted enough to warrant them should have had a dual carden rear driveshaft.I have a 05 LJ with the DPG lift kit package, I have had it for 11+ years and for the most part am very happy with it. Here is what I like and what I don't particularly care for:
OME HD springs are awesome, they ride a little stiff but are way better than stock and the lift looks just right (IMHO) on an LJ with 285 75R16
The JKS 1 1/4" body lift is perfect for allowing a 1" MML, this makes everything line up much better and negates any chance of interference from the engine/trans/ etc. when the drive line is tilted
The JKS track bar (when I did mine no one even bothered messing with the back one) in the front is junk, their articulating joint at the frame end froze despite regular application of grease. I much prefer the Metalcloak track bar I now have
OME shocks (they have since changed dramatically) that came with my kit were junk, the right front blew within 3 months of being installed
The JKS sway bar disconnects are ok, nothing spectacular and they have tended to loosen up a few times at the sway bar end.......
An LJ does not have a double cardon joint in the rear drive shaft, but it does not have a slip yoke either. With this size lift you will not need to do anything to your drive shafts.
You can run stock control arms with issue, mine have 112,000 miles on them and I am just now looking at replacing them.......
Hope this helps.....
The front drive shaft already has a double carden joint and the amount of angle that is introduced over such a long shaft length is negligible, of course what do I know, I have only had this for over a decade and have only had to replace u joints once (more likely due to the mud hole I was buried in than any angle issues). Just my experience, not my opinion........I think the whole idea that an MML and BL are a waste off time. When you lift the engine angle and the output shaft of the front side of the TC you put stress on the front drive line. Imho, any Jeep lifted enough to warrant them should have had a dual carden rear driveshaft.
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I'm not saying that it doesn't work, I'm saying the amount of work and the issues introduced aren't worth it. I.e shifter issues, having to either trim the fan shroud or remove it. I'm glad it worked for you, but I would never suggest it.The front drive shaft already has a double carden joint and the amount of angle that is introduced over such a long shaft length is negligible, of course what do I know, I have only had this for over a decade and have only had to replace u joints once (more likely due to the mud hole I was buried in than any angle issues). Just my experience, not my opinion........