Looking for a good rear spring perch relocation write-ups

For anyone with the Genright brackets:
Do these jive with the stock trackbar mount? Considering installing these to straighten my springs a bit as the extreme angles are causing the springs to cut into my airbags. Not ready to 4-link just yet.

(A photo would be especially helpful.)
Thanks in advance!
could cut the welds and move what you have over also, unless welding is not an option.
have you taken into account some of the bolt ons change ride/rest height if the current springs are retained?
 
could cut the welds and move what you have over also, unless welding is not an option.
have you taken into account some of the bolt ons change ride/rest height if the current springs are retained?
I've considered that as well. But if I'm going to go through the effort of cutting and grinding the old brackets off, I am probably going to use an aftermarket set due to the amount of prep work it would take to reuse the stock mounts. The Genright weld-on brackets are my first choice, but I am open to other brands. The Genright is attractive as it gives a small amount of adjustability post-install.

I'm hoping to avoid cutting and rewelding the trackbar bracket at this point in time.

I have no need to increase the rear ride height, so I'm skipping bolt on options. Not only would I need new springs, I would also need new airbags.

Edit: For reference, the kit I'm referring to is a set of weld-on brackets by Genright. The base welds on, and then the perch is bolted to the base plate:
https://genright.com/products/rear-coil-spring-correction-kit.html
 
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If you are running a track bar make sure there is room to get to the TB nut. This picture looks like removing the TB could be tight with the spring in place.

1651422847140.png
 
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So in my search for a better or cheaper weld-on bracket, I noticed that Rusty’s is selling an almost exact replica of the Genright mount for noticeably cheaper:
https://rustysoffroad.com/products/rustys-rear-coil-spring-relocation-bracket#.YnACkaQpCEchttps://genright.com/products/rear-coil-spring-correction-kit.htmlThe only differences I can see between the two is that the Rusty’s lower bracket is pre-painted and comes with a flag nut in lieu of a flange nut.

Any reason not to buy the Rusty’s to save $60 on parts and shipping?

The only other mount I can find designed for relocation is the Artec mount, though once that one is placed, the positioning is permanent. (There are a few sites selling OEM-style buckets too, which can also be welded out of place.)

Edit: It appears the Genright and the Rusty’s brackets are both just rebranded Superlift brackets. Going to order the Rusty’s version to save $60.
 
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So in my search for a better or cheaper weld-on bracket, I noticed that Rusty’s is selling an almost exact replica of the Genright mount for noticeably cheaper:
https://rustysoffroad.com/products/rustys-rear-coil-spring-relocation-bracket#.YnACkaQpCEchttps://genright.com/products/rear-coil-spring-correction-kit.htmlThe only differences I can see between the two is that the Rusty’s lower bracket is pre-painted and comes with a flag nut in lieu of a flange nut.

Any reason not to buy the Rusty’s to save $60 on parts and shipping?

The only other mount I can find designed for relocation is the Artec mount, though once that one is placed, the positioning is permanent. (There are a few sites selling OEM-style buckets too, which can also be welded out of place.)

Edit: It appears the Genright and the Rusty’s brackets are both just rebranded Superlift brackets. Going to order the Rusty’s version to save $60.
Why not use the ones you already have?
 
Why not use the ones you already have?
The amount of prep work required (in addition to new brackets) to strip them, cut the rusted portions out, weld in new patches, prime, and paint seems to make it not worth doing.

In addition, it allows me to focus more care on not grinding into the frame rail as opposed to trying to perfectly grind the welds off of both the frame and the existing buckets.

Unfortunately I don’t really have the luxury of being able to lift the body more than about 2” or so off the frame due to very tight garage overhead clearances. I *might* be able to pull both the gas tank and axle, but it will be tight.
 
The amount of prep work required (in addition to new brackets) to strip them, cut the rusted portions out, weld in new patches, prime, and paint seems to make it not worth doing.

In addition, it allows me to focus more care on not grinding into the frame rail as opposed to trying to perfectly grind the welds off of both the frame and the existing buckets.

Unfortunately I don’t really have the luxury of being able to lift the body more than about 2” or so off the frame due to very tight garage overhead clearances. I *might* be able to pull both the gas tank and axle, but it will be tight.
I've moved four pairs of the stock seats. I can't imagine spending money on them given how little effort it takes.
 
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The amount of prep work required (in addition to new brackets) to strip them, cut the rusted portions out, weld in new patches, prime, and paint seems to make it not worth doing.

In addition, it allows me to focus more care on not grinding into the frame rail as opposed to trying to perfectly grind the welds off of both the frame and the existing buckets.

Unfortunately I don’t really have the luxury of being able to lift the body more than about 2” or so off the frame due to very tight garage overhead clearances. I *might* be able to pull both the gas tank and axle, but it will be tight.
if your hell bent on new...............did you look at Barnes 4x4?
 
If you are running a track bar make sure there is room to get to the TB nut. This picture looks like removing the TB could be tight with the spring in place.

View attachment 327139
Thats a picture of my Jeep and the spring was extremely close the TB hardware. I think I even had to rotate the spring just right to get the bolt to clear.
If I did it again I would move the perch forward about 1/4” or so to ensure clearance.
 
Thats a picture of my Jeep and the spring was extremely close the TB hardware. I think I even had to rotate the spring just right to get the bolt to clear.
If I did it again I would move the perch forward about 1/4” or so to ensure clearance.

I stole your picture so I wouldn't have to go outside to take a picture of mine. I put the bolt in from the back.
 
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In the process of installing the Rusty's off road brackets. They are actually pretty straightforward, and literally exactly like the Genright ones. They key right up to the rear crossmember and to the rear trackbar bracket, so placing them is super easy.

Lesson learned #1:
If the previous owner sprayed oil film inside the frame rail, you're probably going to set the inside of the frame on fire once you start welding...