Looking for opinion on lift

[FergieRay]

I posted a few days ago my intro and plans for the Jeep. It’s an all stock TJ Sahara. I’d like to maintain my daily driving capabilities but give it a bit more beef. So after many replies and hours/days of hearing opinions looking around and pricing things out I’m in between 2 options.

Option A : 1.25’’ body lift with 31’s as an economical option that should scratch my itch at least temporarily

Option B : 2-2.5’’ suspension lift and 33’s. This is a bit less economical but I think will please me longer.

However the issue with B is the lift kits I see the prices range dramatically. I’ve heard negative things about certain brands and what not so I would like to hear y’all a opinion on the kit below.

https://www.quadratec.com/products/16400_0X32_PG.htm

I like the price and would give me the clearance I would need to run 33’s

As for the wheels and tires, the Mammoth 8’s in silver with the Mickey Thompson M/T (whatevs) on Extreme Terrain really have my attention.

https://www.extremeterrain.com/mammoth8polishedbeadlock-mt-j100610-j19431-tjyj.html

The combo for A would be roughly 2000, and B, all told I’d be right around the 2500 mark.

Thoughts and opinions wanted and welcomed.

Same pic for new click...

 

[bobthetj03]

I vote option A. A 2.5" suspension lift really isn't enough lift for 33's if you like any kind of up travel. You'll need to add a minimum of 2" bump stop extension to keep the tires from ruining your fenders. Street driving you may be ok, but if you offroad at all and want more articulation by disco'ing the front sway bar, you will need more clearance. A 2.5" suspension lift coupled with the body lift would make a much better setup for 33's. So, again, I say option A, run the 31's and wheel the snot out of it for a while, then save up for a 2.5" lift and 33's. I can't personally comment on the Qtech lift, but I have read comments of their mediocre performance.

 

[Cornbread]

Nice sahara! Not sure what gears/axle/transmission you have but for a daily driver your option A may be smart if you don't want to regear. But those wheels and tires would look sweet on your rig. IMO if you think you really want 33's don't mess around with 31's. Depending on how many miles you put on in a year it may take a long time to wear the 31's out which would be somewhat of a waste of money to not wear them out.

Before I knew what I was getting myself into I found a good deal on some used 35's. Yes I do think they look sweet, but now I'm stuck with an endless list of upgrades needed to properly run the 35's. The little savings in the wheels/tires I got is going to cost my way more in steering/driveshaft/regear etc.

Personally I think some 31's or 32's on an OME kit or 1.25" body lift would be a cool build and looks really nice. If I was to ever sell my TJ and buy another, a smaller moderate build for 31's would be what I would do. It's up to you so if you really like the look of 33's go for it, but in the long run it will cost you.

 

[Chris]

I vote option B with an added 1.25" body lift. To clear 33s you really need 4" of lift, so you'd be at 3.75" with that setup, which would be perfect.

 

[bobthetj03]

Yeah, I didn't even touch bases with gearing, brakes, steering, drive line vibes, and all the other related costs, issues with bigger tires.

 

[FergieRay]

Thanks for keeping it honest....I mentioned the 1.25 inch body lift and 31’’ combo to my buddy who is a Jeep guy and he just kinda blew me off and started talking about lift kits and 33’’s and up and I don’t know much about Jeeps to begin with I just know I like them and I like some of the upgrades. And yes I have taken it trailing and intend to do more as the we go along. I live in Utah currently and there is plenty of places to go, so lucky me I guess.

 

[FergieRay]

Nice sahara! Not sure what gears/axle/transmission you have but for a daily driver your option A may be smart if you don't want to regear. But those wheels and tires would look sweet on your rig. IMO if you think you really want 33's don't mess around with 31's. Depending on how many miles you put on in a year it may take a long time to wear the 31's out which would be somewhat of a waste of money to not wear them out.

Before I knew what I was getting myself into I found a good deal on some used 35's. Yes I do think they look sweet, but now I'm stuck with an endless list of upgrades needed to properly run the 35's. The little savings in the wheels/tires I got is going to cost my way more in steering/driveshaft/regear etc.

Personally I think some 31's or 32's on an OME kit or 1.25" body lift would be a cool build and looks really nice. If I was to ever sell my TJ and buy another, a smaller moderate build for 31's would be what I would do. It's up to you so if you really like the look of 33's go for it, but in the long run it will cost you.

All I know about it is it’s an in-line 6, 4.0L with Manual Transmission. Lol

 

[Cornbread]

All I know about it is it’s an in-line 6, 4.0L with Manual Transmission. Lol

DON'T let someone try to tell you that you need 33's. A nice lift on some 31's can be very effective offroad and still be a great daily driver. (IMO it's neat when a Jeep with stock or smaller tire size can wheel with the big boys). There's a good chance your buddy may not know what it takes to run 33's. It's easy to tell someone else how to spend their money.

I would consider 31's and a 1.25" body lift to start out. Get/make some swaybar disconnects. Wheel it for awhile and if you think you still need 33's then start upgrading for them slowly. The 1.25" body you will probably keep with 33's so it's a good investment. It will allow for a motor mount lift or tummy tuck. I also like how it makes it easy to clean the frame. Then upgrade your driveshaft with a SYE, upgrade axles if you have a Dana 35 (lockers?), you may want to upgrade brakes. Get an adjustable tie rod (JKS is a good example) upgrade steering (tie rod at a minimum). Finally buy a quality lift and your 33's of choice. Last but not least, chances are you need to regear.

This would be my approach. And hey you may be happy with 31's. I would argue 31's with lockers would outwheel 35's with no locker in many places. So don't think that tire size is everything because it is just a small part of the equation.

 

[FergieRay]

DON'T let someone try to tell you that you need 33's. A nice lift on some 31's can be very effective offroad and still be a great daily driver. (IMO it's neat when a Jeep with stock or smaller tire size can wheel with the big boys). There's a good chance your buddy may not know what it takes to run 33's. It's easy to tell someone else how to spend their money.

I would consider 31's and a 1.25" body lift to start out. Get/make some swaybar disconnects. Wheel it for awhile and if you think you still need 33's then start upgrading for them slowly. The 1.25" body you will probably keep with 33's so it's a good investment. It will allow for a motor mount lift or tummy tuck. I also like how it makes it easy to clean the frame. Then upgrade your driveshaft with a SYE, upgrade axles if you have a Dana 35 (lockers?), you may want to upgrade brakes. Get an adjustable tie rod (JKS is a good example) upgrade steering (tie rod at a minimum). Finally buy a quality lift and your 33's of choice. Last but not least, chances are you need to regear.

This would be my approach. And hey you may be happy with 31's. I would argue 31's with lockers would outwheel 35's with no locker in many places. So don't think that tire size is everything because it is just a small part of the equation.

Very nice. I like this mindset and approach. Especially since 99 percent of my time in the Jeep will be commuting to and from work/appointments in paved flat roads. The other 1 percent will be on the weekends I’m able to break free trailing around and whatnot. I think I’ll focus on the small body lift and 31’s and see how that goes this summer.

 

[05 Blue Unlimited]

I mentioned the 1.25 inch body lift and 31’’ combo to my buddy who is a Jeep guy and he just kinda blew me off and started talking about......

Advice from a buddy is fine as far as it goes but never forget the world is full of people willing to spend your money...

Also, you don't need a lift of any type to put 31's on. I just lifted mine (for the look) but ran 31's stock since 2012 with no issues running any trail I felt comfortable on in Moab and The Swell (lived ~1.5 hrs east at the time). So 31's are very capable as a step in a build direction.

My advice is to not be in a rush to get spending, but let your style of wheeling dictate your build. Now if it's looks your after that is a different discussion and perfectly understandable.

 

[FergieRay]

Advice from a buddy is fine as far as it goes but never forget the world is full of people willing to spend your money...

Also, you don't need a lift of any type to put 31's on. I just lifted mine (for the look) but ran 31's stock since 2012 with no issues running any trail I felt comfortable on in Moab and The Swell (lived ~1.5 hrs east at the time). So 31's are very capable as a step in a build direction.

My advice is to not be in a rush to get spending, but let your style of wheeling dictate your build. Now if it's looks your after that is a different discussion and perfectly understandable.

I’m definitely interested in the look too. Primarily actually but I want theblook to also compliment the added abilities. Bigger tires good looking wheels decent lift I think looks great and from what everyone is saying will be more than capable when I do take her off road. As I mentioned before I went off reading a few times this past summer, and had a blast. Never got into anything too hairy but never felt like it needed much more than what it has, especially for my age and family situation with what I’d be comfortable doing. And again not just that, it’s also my daily so I can’t be trying to be the biggest D on the trail, I need my Jeep to get me home and to work on Monday morning lol

 

[DrDmoney]

DON'T let someone try to tell you that you need 33's. A nice lift on some 31's can be very effective offroad and still be a great daily driver. (IMO it's neat when a Jeep with stock or smaller tire size can wheel with the big boys). There's a good chance your buddy may not know what it takes to run 33's. It's easy to tell someone else how to spend their money.

I would consider 31's and a 1.25" body lift to start out. Get/make some swaybar disconnects. Wheel it for awhile and if you think you still need 33's then start upgrading for them slowly. The 1.25" body you will probably keep with 33's so it's a good investment. It will allow for a motor mount lift or tummy tuck. I also like how it makes it easy to clean the frame. Then upgrade your driveshaft with a SYE, upgrade axles if you have a Dana 35 (lockers?), you may want to upgrade brakes. Get an adjustable tie rod (JKS is a good example) upgrade steering (tie rod at a minimum). Finally buy a quality lift and your 33's of choice. Last but not least, chances are you need to regear.

This would be my approach. And hey you may be happy with 31's. I would argue 31's with lockers would outwheel 35's with no locker in many places. So don't think that tire size is everything because it is just a small part of the equation.

In 1999 while I was on the Rubicon, A mildly built TJ really impressed me, I ordered my 2000 shortly after. My needs are very different than yours but if you want bigger tires than 31” or 32” save up and do it right.

 

[DrDmoney]

In 1999 while I was on the Rubicon, A mildly built TJ really impressed me, I ordered my 2000 shortly after. My needs are very different than yours but if you want bigger tires than 31” or 32” save up and do it right.

That being said, I have been really looking hard at the Savvy Mid-Arm lift. I just don’t want to do a body lift to install it. Does anyone know if it can be installed w/o the body lift? Hint hint Mr.Blaine

 

[Jeffreybomb]

If you go with Option A, how long are you considering keeping it at that level? If you'd be happy with that option until the tires need to be replaced (or close to), I can see that being worthwhile. Get enough under your TJ to keep your appetite sated, save money for the next step up.

That's basically what I'm doing right now. I have 33x12.50 Duratracs and a 3.5" lift. I'm working towards 35" tires.

The more tire size you want, the more parts you have to switch out. Unfortunately, the cost begins to grow exponentially.

 

[Blackjack]

That being said, I have been really looking hard at the Savvy Mid-Arm lift. I just don’t want to do a body lift to install it. Does anyone know if it can be installed w/o the body lift? Hint hint Mr.Blaine

The Savvy Mid Arm requires a body lift.

 

[DrDmoney]

The Savvy Mid Arm requires a body lift.

Do you know why? CA Bracket clearance?

 

[jjvw]

Do you know why? CA Bracket clearance?

Correct. You can cut the tub up if you want to try without. But if you aren't also running a high clearance t-case skid which typically involves a small body lift (also to avoid chopping up the tub), then you aren't going to benefit from mid arms. The stock skid is also not compatible with the Savvy kit.

Consider a tummy tuck as a gatekeeper to a change in arm length.

 

[jodomcfrodo]

Do you know why? CA Bracket clearance?

I just read through almost the entire thread on the Savvy mid-arm over on JF today. I believe you need the body lift for the control arm brackets on the frame. But, besides that, if you are wheeling hard enough to warrant installing a Savvy mid-arm, you are at the point where a TT is essentially necessary. You can only go so far up without a body lift.

 

[DrDmoney]

I just read through almost the entire thread on the Savvy mid-arm over on JF today. I believe you need the body lift for the control arm brackets on the frame. But, besides that, if you are wheeling hard enough to warrant installing a Savvy mid-arm, you are at the point where a TT is essentially necessary. You can only go so far up without a body lift.

I have 17 inches of clearance under the stock T case skid now. I was just looking for a triangulated four link upgrade and aluminum links.

 

[jodomcfrodo]

I have 17 inches of clearance under the stock T case skid now. I was just looking for a triangulated four link upgrade and aluminum links.

If you are able to run the trails you want to with the stock t-case skid hanging down, I would also bet that you are able to run those trails without the mid-arm. I would question putting on a Savvy mid arm and keeping the stock t-case skid. You would either have no use for the mid-arm on moderate trails or you would be getting hung up on the stock skid on trails where you would find the mid-arm advantageous.