Looking for pics of 32s with no lift and metal cloak fenders

i looked at all the fenders from cheap ass smittybuilt to mc to poisonspyder and genright.
in the end i could not purchase a fender as light and as cheap to replace as my stripped down OE, and it's not something everyone will take the effort to do, but it had to go up and back to work right.
 
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Kennedy1220 said:
Hey guys, just looking for some pics of a TJ that has 32/33 inch wheels with some sort of tube fenders or something similar and no lift. Thanks in advance.
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I have tried 32's & 33's to no avail without rubbing or bottoming out. The biggest I found you can go staying 100% STOCK are 31's without a lift, spacers, or changing fenders, no rubbing & actually have a decent ride & a great look.

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OHFIVETJ said:
.... The biggest I found you can go staying 100% STOCK are 31's without a lift, spacers, or changing fenders, no rubbing & actually have a decent ride & a great look.

View attachment 131259
View attachment 131260

View attachment 131261
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31s came on the Rubicon from the factory. Jeep added about 1/4" bump stop extension to the front axle pad to keep the tires out of the sheet metal. Even then, if one were to fully cycle a stock TJ Rubicon front axle without springs they would find that the stock tire size doesn't quite fit without some rubbing.
 
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billiebob said:
here is the one I like, the fender is higher than the hood even if the hooe is not cut. Since the tire extends past the fender,,,, like everyone,,,, the tire can articulate as high as a TJ with a 4" lift and stock body. And at full lock, with the back of the fenderwell extended, this highline might even have better full lock articulation.

View attachment 131154

But the guy calling people with a different opinion idiots.... needs a mirror... and maybe a joint.
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The bottom of those fenders is still barely higher than stock regardless of the tube bending up creating an illusion of more space, so no not gaining much.
 
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With my 2in lift and 31s I have, up front, 5.75” up limited by the shocks before the tires contact the sheet metal.

Probably room for another .75 or so up before tires hit the sheet metal lip on stock fenders.

So the whole uptravel argument...op should be fine to maintain around stock up.
 
Fughuert said:
With my 2in lift and 31s I have, up front, 5.75” up limited by the shocks before the tires contact the sheet metal.

Probably room for another .75 or so up before tires hit the sheet metal lip on stock fenders.

So the whole uptravel argument...op should be fine to maintain around stock up.
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So your shocks are bottoming out before the tires hit sheetmetal?
 
Fughuert said:
With my 2in lift and 31s I have, up front, 5.75” up limited by the shocks before the tires contact the sheet metal.

Probably room for another .75 or so up before tires hit the sheet metal lip on stock fenders.

So the whole uptravel argument...op should be fine to maintain around stock up.
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Did you fully cycle the axle without springs to determine this?

Full bump both sides...
20190524_221029.jpg


Full flex...
20190524_224305.jpg
 
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jjvw said:
Did you fully cycle the axle without springs to determine this?

Full bump both sides...

Full flex...
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No, so idk what happens at full steering lock. My shocks are the wrong size, sometime in the spring I'm going to figure out my full travel limits and get correct sized shocks, maybe extend upper mount if the springs I have allow for more travel than shocks will.

But for now, I do know it stops traveling up due the shocks and clears for decent steering articulation while mildly rubbing the plastic.

Why do you ask? What are the details on the suspension in those pictures?
 
Fughuert said:
....

Why do you ask? What are the details on the suspension in those pictures?
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The details are that full bump and full flex look very different. The wheels are in entirely different places. The measurements you provided can only be accurate if the suspension never flexes.
 
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jjvw said:
The details are that full bump and full flex look very different. The wheels are in entirely different places. The measurements you provided can only be accurate if the suspension never flexes.
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Sorry I don't follow. "full bump and full flex look different."( Oh I see you're referring to bump as both sides straight up and flex one side full stuff.) And the number can't be accurate?

The numbers I gave are from the tire being stuffed up bottoming out on the shocks built in bump, so it was fully flexed out f/r on a boulder so I could look things over since I don't want to pull my springs in the winter.

Not the perfect way to test interference and travels but it couldn't go up anymore and the limit I was the shocks up, not bump stop cup hitting the pad, and not the tire hitting sheet metal.

Granted it isn't full steering lock and 100% it will hit the plastic flare at steering lock, but I'm not just measuring shock shaft at ride height.
 
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Fughuert said:
Sorry I don't follow. "full bump and full flex look different."( Oh I see you're referring to bump as both sides straight up and flex one side full stuff.) And the number can't be accurate?

The numbers I gave are from the tire being stuffed up bottoming out on the shocks built in bump, so it was fully flexed out f/r on a boulder so I could look things over since I don't want to pull my springs in the winter.

Not the perfect way to test interference and travels but it couldn't go up anymore and the limit I was the shocks up, not bump stop cup hitting the pad, and not the tire hitting sheet metal.

Granted it isn't full steering lock and 100% it will hit the plastic flare at steering lock, but I'm not just measuring shock shaft at ride height.
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Parking on a boulder isn't good enough to show the full extent of what can actually happen during dynamic loads. The springs and jounces need to be removed and the axle moved around with a floor jack.
 
It's a lot of money to spend for limited gain, but if it's the look you are going for then by all means go for it. We can discuss the merits and benefits of MC until the end of time

32x9.5r16 with 1/2" bumpstop extension on my Rubi with stock flares, had to add a washer on the steering stops as I was rubbing on full lock, ran like that for a year

FCB4C847-6E7E-4C31-8923-0D746B0FB224.jpeg
 
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No jounces, they were harder than a rock and I never got around to getting new pairs, as I said the cup does not touch the axle pad at all before the shock bottoms anyways.
 
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