Before moving to MN I was a forester for 30 years in MT. In the winter, when you left the blacktop to head up a snow packed mountain road throwing on chains was a daily occurrence, and should not take only 10-15 minutes max., unless they are buried in your gear box since the last winter. They are really needed more for stop than for go. Breaking traction and sliding down hill with a steep drop has pucker factor you would not believe. Put them on the rear tires, if they can move you forward, the extra weight on the front drive can usually steer you. (Plus most modern vehicles do not leave enough room for chains on the front.)
I liked standard V-bar twist link ladder style chains, though have used square link also without V-bar. Cross links need to reach over tread and about halfway to the rim. trim side links so they hook in the third link on a new tire. That way they are long enough to generally get them hooked in the last link those times you did not choose to put them on until stuck (very bad idea). Also, when tire is worn down you will be no more than the fourth link. Side cam lock chains are stupid. Look good on roads where you really do not need chains but in tough going, digging and lurching, the tension and release will cause a cam to flip loose, then another, and next thing chain is off wrapped around axle.
Lay chains over the tires, curve of side link loops outward, open hook end to inside. On inside slip end link on hook and then the 3rd or 4th link where they will be tight. This traps excess links so they do not tear up brake lines, etc. On the outside first hook the desired 3rd or 4th link, THEN hook end link, latch the hook. again, this traps the excess links. Sometimes you might need to drive a hundred feet or so to retighten to the desired link. Tight as you can get, maybe with your leatherman to help your cold bare fingers get them latched is good enough. Properly hooked as described you do not need rubber bungies, I have certainly thousands of chained up miles under my belt to attest to this.
